Good day, brain! Homemade which will be discussed in this article is an open source laser 3D scanner called "FabScan", developed, by the way, as a bachelor's thesis.
Corps of his brain scanner I made them from MDF sheets and a few more fasteners, and to show what I got, I decided to write this guide.
So let's go!
Step 1: We need
What "FabScan" recommends:
— Arduino Uno
- A4988 stepper motor driver
— shield for 3D-scanner "FabScan"
— 5mW laser module
- NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor (200 steps)
- power supply 12V, 1A
- webcam Logitech C270
– material for the body (4 sheets of MDF 60x30x0.5cm, more details here)
What I used:
— Arduino Uno
- NEMA 17 stepper motor (200 steps)
- L298N driver for stepper motor
– 5mW laser module (red beam)
- power supply 12V, 2A
- webcam Logiteck C270
Step 2: Building the Hull
We cut out the body parts from MDF, I used a dremel for these purposes, and assemble it. This procedure is not simple, because for a correct scan brain chamber, the motor and the laser module must be positioned correctly.
Step 3: Connecting the Electronics
It's quite simple: we mount the FabScan shield on the Arduino, and already on the shield we install the driver in the first connector for the motor. We connect a stepper motor to the output contacts, and laser module to analog pin A4, and finally connect the power and USB cable. More details about this.
If you are using components from my list, then you need to connect the L298 driver to pins 10, 11, 9, 8 on the Arduino (you can change them if you wish), and the laser module also to pin A4. Then connect power and USB cable.
Step 4: Code
Here is the code for crafts from the development team, and which can be downloaded to the Arduino directly from the browser using the Codebender plugin. To do this, you need to install this plugin and click the "Run on Arduino" button, thereby launching the "fill" directly from the code window.
Note: If you are using the "Try Ubuntu" option, make sure your files are backed up before shutting down your computer!
Based on the photos above, do the following:
- select serial port (SerialPort)
- set the camera
- then "File" - "Control Panel"
- run detect laser without placing anything in the printer yet and select "enable"
- Click "Fetch Frame" and make sure the blue horizontal line touches the top of the turntable and the yellow horizontal line touches the bottom of the turntable. The yellow vertical line should pass through the center of the round turntable. An unaligned camera will produce distorted scans!
After setting, close the control panel window, place an object in the scanner and press the “start scan” button.
Tip: You can modify the configuration file from the development team's configuration.xml by following the .
Saving the resulting 3D image:
When brain scan completed, the resulting 3D image can be saved as 3D pointcloud .pcd or .ply files. You can also save as a 3D stl file, but it does not work on all platforms. You can open a file with a scanned object by selecting "File" - "OpenPointCloud".
— make sure that the file with the scan has the extension .ply
— open the file in MeshLab and calculate the normals (Filters/Point Set/Compute normals for point sets)
— recreate surfaces using Poisson reconstruction (Filters/Point Set/Surface Reconstruction: Poisson).
That's all! And to everyone brain luck!
It is an analogue of the famous laser scanner FabScan, which was developed by Franz Engelmann. As a box for such a scanner, the author used MDF, as for the filling, it also differs slightly from the original.
The original is the program for Arduino, it was taken from the original project.
Materials and tools for creating a scanner:
4 sheets of MDF 600X300 mm, thickness 5 mm (they are needed to create the case);
- stepper motor (NEMA 17 for 200 steps);
- driver for stepper motor L298N;
- 5 mW laser module (used by Red Line manufacturer);
- to power the device you need a source of 12 V - 2 A;
- webcam model Logiteck C270.
The original homemade uses the A4988 stepper motor driver, and as for the stepper motor, this is also NEMA 17. Otherwise, the elements of the homemade are exactly the same as in the original version.
Scanner manufacturing process:
Step one. Making the body
The whole process of creating a housing for the scanner can be seen in the photo. The most important thing in this business is accuracy. The laser stepper motor module and the webcam must be clearly located in the right places, in accordance with the project.
Step two. We connect electrical equipment
There are two ways to connect equipment, this is with a shield and without it. Let's take a closer look at each of these options.
Connection without shield
If it is decided to assemble the device without using a shield, then the outputs of the L298 stepper motor are connected to Arduino pins numbered 10, 11, 9, 8. In principle, you can use other pins, but you will need to make changes to the sketch.
As for the laser module, it must be connected to pin A4 on the Arduino controller. After that, you can connect the USB cable and power.
Connection with shield
You need to install the FabScan shield on the Arduino. As for the stepper motor driver, it must be installed on the rails that are provided for this. The stepper motor pins are connected to the corresponding pins on the shield.
The laser module must be connected to pin A4 on the Arduino. That's all, after that the power and USB cable are connected.
Step three. Installing the sketch
Now you need to download and install the official sketch for FabScan. To flash the Arduino, you need to download the Codebender plugin and then click the "Run on Arduino" button. In this case, the sketch can be installed directly through the browser from the official site.
If the shield was not used, then you need to click the Edit button and then add the following lines:
const int stepsPerRevolution = 200; // change this parameter to adjust the number of steps per turn of your stepper motor shaft
Stepper myStepper(stepsPerRevolution, 10, 11,8,9);
Replace the step() function:
myStepper.setSpeed(1);
myStepper.step(1);
Step four. Scanner Software
To install the program, you need to download the "FabScan Ubuntu Live DVD" image, after installation, the FabScan software will appear.
The program needs to make some settings:
First you need to select SerialPort;
- then select Camera;
- after that File - Control Panel;
- then click detect laser and select "enable" (you do not need to put any objects in front of the laser);
- well, now press "Fetch Frame", while the blue horizontal line should touch the bottom of the rotating table. The yellow line should be in the center of the table. If the camera is installed incorrectly, the image quality will be poor.
That's it, the program is set up. Now you can put some object into the scanner, and then press the Start Scan button.
Step five. Saving the image
After the object is scanned, the image can be saved in .pcd or .ply format. You can also save in stl format, but this already depends on the platform used.
To open an object that was saved earlier, you need to select File - OpenPointCloud.
FabScan is an open-source, DIY 3D laser scanner.
The beginning of the project was laid during the development of the bachelor's project by Francis Engelmann. The official page of the project is located.
Based on this project, an analogue was developed, which is considered in the article. MDF is used for boxing. The electronic filling is also somewhat different.
The program for Arduino is taken from the original project. So thanks to the FabScan team for a great open-source 3D scanner!
So let's get started.
Required Components
Details and assemblies for the original FabScan project:
- Stepper motor driver A4988;
- Shield FabScan;
- NEMA 17 bipolar stepper motor (200 steps);
- Power supply 12 V - 1 A;
- Webcam Logitech C270.
For the case you need 4 sheets of MDF. Dimensions - 600 mm by 300 mm. Thickness - 5 mm. More detailed information .
Parts and assemblies used in this manual:
- (200 steps);
- Stepper motor driver L298N;
- 5 mW laser module - manufacturer Red Line;
- Power supply 12 V - 2 A;
- Webcam Logiteck C270.
That is, we simply will not use the FabScan shield and use another stepper motor driver module
Development of a housing for a 3D scanner
The process and result of developing the body of our 3D scanner are shown in the photographs. The main difficulty is the most accurate installation of the camera, laser module and stepper motor. If you want to make your life easier, you can order these parts for 35 euros.
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1. With shield.
Install FabScan shield on Arduino. The A4988 stepper motor driver is mounted on the provided rails. The stepper motor is connected to the corresponding pins on the shield. The laser module is connected to analog pin A4. After that, you can connect the power and USB cable. More detailed instructions are located.
2. Without shield.
If you decide to assemble the scanner without using a shield, connect the L298 stepper motor driver to pins 10, 11, 9, 8 on the Arduino (in principle, these pins can be changed with the appropriate edits in the sketch). The laser module is connected to pin A4 on the Arduino. All. You can connect power and USB cable.
Sketch for Arduino
Important note! If you are using the "Try Ubuntu" option, make sure you save your files before shutting down your PC!
Follow the instructions, the photos of which are given below:
- Select SerialPort;
- Select Camera;
- File - Control Panel;
- Click detect laser (don't place any object in front of the scanner yet) and select "enable";
- Click "Fetch Frame" and make sure the blue horizontal line touches the top of the turntable and the yellow horizontal line touches the bottom of the turntable. In addition, the yellow vertical line must be aligned with the center of the turntable. If the camera is installed incorrectly, the scan result will not be clear!
After setting, close the window, place the object in the 3D scanner and click the Start Scan button.
Note: For more information on setting up the configuration.xml file, see this guide.
Saving a 3D image
When the 3D scanning process is completed, you can save the scanned 3D object with a .pcd or .ply extension. You can also save as a 3D stl file, but this feature is not available on all platforms. You can open a previously scanned and saved object by selecting File - OpenPointCloud.
What's next?
You can use MeshLab to process a scanned 3D object and print it on a 3D printer!
When processing a file in MeshLab:
1. Make sure you save the object as a .ply file.
2. Open the file with MeshLab.
3. Calculate normals in MeshLab (Filters/Point Set/Compute normals).
4. After that, rebuild the surface using Poisson reconstruction (Filters/Point Set/Surface Reconstruction: Poisson)
The final assembled structure is shown in the photo below.
Video of the original FabScan 3-D scanner:
Huge thanks to the FabScan team for an amazing open-source Arduino scanner!!!
Leave your comments, questions and share your personal experience below. In the discussion, new ideas and projects are often born!
The very first question will be to the administration, why is there no heading "3d-Scanning"?
The second question will be to the community and sellers: why is there so little information about devices that cost as much as half a car (and in some cases more expensive) on the Internet? If it exists, it is mainly on English-language forums, not every person is able to adequately perceive spoken/slang English. Therefore, I was first of all faced with an almost complete lack of information on this subject. This partly saved me and I even chatted with the author on Skype and he explained a lot of things to me, but then he went on a long vacation and I was left alone with my collective farm, which looked like this in the first performance:
The ACER p1500 projector with FullHD resolution was taken as the basis, as far as I know, this projector is used in some expensive scanners (we won’t mention the names), a tripod for photo / video equipment, a 10 * 40 corner, a webcam (more on that below ). The most accessible software for this whole business is, of course, DAVID, since there is a free version with some limited functionality.
The choice of camera should be approached carefully, first of all, you need to pay attention to the presence of autofocus, it should not be, either it should be turned off, or it should be configured in manual mode, it was on the last point that I chose Defender G-lense hd 720, but, as it turned out later, this was the only plus in it, the software stuffing and software did not even pass the first test:
Of course, I was dumbfounded by such a scan :) Trying to set up something on this webcam is generally pointless and I was very upset about 2000 rubles thrown into the wind, then I remembered that I had a Logitech c270 somewhere from a completely useless assembly of the BQ scanner, it’s business with it it went more fun and the first sane scan collected in a bunch turned out like this:
The result is already much better, and it's all about the software that comes with the camera, Logitech has enough settings, one exposure is worth it, which solves the flickering problem. But she had one minus, the focus was set at the factory from 40 cm to infinity, which clearly did not suit me. I found information on the internet so that it can be made adjustable, you just need to disassemble and tear off the thread from the glue on which the lens is glued. Full of enthusiasm to turn the camera with adjustable focal length, I began to disassemble it, easily reached the place where the lens was glued and began to try to pull it off the glued place................. heart it sank from the fact that the lens burst from such impudence and became unsuitable for further use. Here I was completely sad, because I was left without a normally working webcam at all: cry: I went out of grief to drink tea. Returning to the workplace, I was visited by just a brilliant idea: what if we make Frankstein? I disassembled the Defender, the seats turned out to be somewhat different, but this did not stop me and I nevertheless spliced the alien elements. Oh, miracle, I have a new webcam with normal software and adjustable focus (by the way, Defendera has larger lenses). The first acceptable result was not long in coming:
A scan of the toolbox was successfully made, a small ripple is observed on the right, but this is my fault, I did not tighten the settings. But agree, this is already an acceptable result :)
After this case, a structure for mounting the camera was quickly created so that it could be twisted / turned and moved around the corner.
You can notice how non-native lens does not harmonize with the body :)
And now questions for connoisseurs, because so far I can not find a logical explanation for what is happening. Why, when scanning an object in 360 degrees, at the end you can get a mismatch of scans:
I was somewhat puzzled by this phenomenon, of course I had to suffer and find one way to fix it for the time being, this is stupidly splitting the scan into two parts and adjusting each in its own area, then this displacement goes away, but I am tormented by vague doubts that geometric distortion can occur object in such cases, since it is not known which of the points is in the correct position. Actually, this is my main problem.
Also, I have not yet fully realized one more thing - is it possible to change the distance to the object during the scanning process, that is, is it possible to put the projector closer to the object or further, or raise it above the object or lower it lower to reach the right places when scanning, this question is still open...
Here's what you get with the modernized webcam:
Of course, you also need to play with the settings, as they sometimes greatly affect the result.
For the sake of interest, I went to see how much David’s own camera costs, almost 700 bucks, I don’t even know if it makes sense to buy such a camera, with the current exchange rate it’s not at all budgetary.
Attention! Observe safety precautions when working with laser radiation. We remind you that attempts to repeat the actions of the author can lead to the loss of the warranty for the equipment and even to its failure. The material is provided for informational purposes only. If you are going to reproduce the steps described below, we strongly advise you to carefully read the article to the end at least once. The editors of 3DNews are not responsible for any possible consequences.
A professional 3D scanner is a complicated thing and not everyone needs it, and therefore quite expensive. But a simple analogue for digitizing a small number of objects can be done independently and with minimal money and time. We will need: a laser module, a webcam, paper, a printer, cardboard or a sheet of plywood, as well as special software. Let's take everything in order. We need a laser module with a beam in the form of a line (not a dot, as in the once popular Chinese pointers). The easiest way to get red modules, but green, white or blue will do. They cost within a thousand rubles when buying in an offline store. And if you order at some Chinese Internet flea market, you can save a little, but you have to wait until the (slow) mail delivers it.
We purchased for the experiment a laser module with a wavelength of 650 nm (red) with a power of 5 mW. More powerful lasers are noticeably more expensive, and at the same time they are much more dangerous. It is better, of course, to buy a self-powered module, as it is much more convenient. Otherwise, you must definitely find out the power settings and take care of creating a small "body kit" with batteries or accumulators and a switch. Just in case, we recall that the red wire is +, and the black one is -. Observe the connection polarity and power settings, otherwise the laser may fail. Be sure to read the following warning!
Attention!!! Laser radiation is very dangerous! Never direct the laser beam into the eyes of people (including yourself) and animals - this can cause irreparable damage to vision (for example, cause retinal burns)! It is forbidden to look at the laser beam through any optical devices! Do not aim the laser beam at any vehicles (including airplanes)! Never give the laser to children or inappropriate persons, and make sure that they cannot gain access to the laser! Do not use laser modules with a power of more than 5 mW, as in this case even a reflected beam can be dangerous! In any case, it is highly recommended to purchase special protective glasses for work, designed for the wavelength that the laser module emits! Do not hold the laser module at head level! Always follow the safety measures! If you do not understand the meaning of the above, do not use the laser! The editors of 3DNews and the author do not bear any responsibility for any possible consequences, including injuries caused by laser radiation!
Read the previous paragraph again and remember the above. It's a good idea to check out the popular laser safety FAQ. By the way, a laser level can be an excellent replacement for the module. It also costs around 1,000 rubles. At the same time, it is obviously less dangerous due to the low radiation power, and you don’t have to bother with organizing power and a switch: you put in a battery and work.
Next on the list is the webcam. It needs to support WDM or DirectShow (it seems that all modern models have suitable drivers) and give out at least 30 FPS at a resolution of 640x480. You can take a worse camera, but the result will be appropriate. The higher the supported resolution and frame rate, the better, but the load on the PC in this case will be more noticeable. The developers of the software we use, to which we will now turn, recommend giving preference to the Logitech Pro 9000. We used the Logitech HDPro Webcam 910 webcam. The ideal option is to use a good black and white camera with a CCD matrix.
Finally, about the most important thing - about the program that will translate a flat image from a webcam into a three-dimensional model. This is a long-known DAVID-Laserscanner utility, which has already been featured in the news articles of our resource. Most recently, a "major" release, the third in a row, was released. For correct operation, Microsoft .NET Framework version 2.0 or higher must be installed on the PC. We must immediately make a reservation that the full version of the program costs 329 euros. The demo version is almost complete, but does not allow you to save the finished 3D model. It seems our readers don't need to be told where to get the correct version. If you are crystal clear in your soul and you have free 400 euros, then buy a ready-made branded kit of a webcam with a stand, software, calibration panels with mounts and a powered red laser. If not, then you need to start by making a calibration angle.
In principle, the process of setting up and working with the utility is well described in the project's wiki. So we will only briefly describe the main stages of work. Download and install DAVID-Laserscanner. In the folder with the program in the Printout directory you will find files with calibration surface templates for A3 and A4 formats. It is necessary to choose the appropriate format based on the size of the scanned object. You can roughly estimate, based on the fact that the height of the scanned object should be 1.5-2 times less than the height of the calibration angle. Print the templates, cut or fold them along the fold lines, and stick them on two flat surfaces - sheets of plywood or cardboard, on the walls in the corner of a room, inside a box, and so on. In general, turn on the fantasy.
The main condition is that the angle between the two planes should be 90 degrees and not change. You also need to ensure that the printed sheets remain smooth and even, and there is nothing glossy on their surface. Developers, in particular, recommend attaching printed sheets with a patch. It is also important not to confuse the orientation of the sheets. On the printout, you need to measure and remember the length (in mm) of the line signed Scale. As an example, we will be scanning a small owl figurine. In this case, an A4 template came up, which was attached to a piece of cardboard folder using a stapler.
When the corner is ready, you need to set the webcam so that it looks exactly at the fold line. There is one more nuance - there should be as large an angle as possible between the line of sight of the camera and the scanning laser beam. Therefore, you can make the camera look a little up. You may need to make small stands for the scanned object and the camera itself. Most importantly, it is necessary to ensure that the position of the camera and the calibration angle are rigidly fixed relative to each other after adjustment and calibration. If you do not need object texturing, then the webcam should immediately switch to black and white mode.
Once the camera and angle are set, calibration can begin. Launch DAVID-Laserscanner, select your webcam as a video source, and set its operation mode (resolution and frame rate). Now go to the Camera Calibration section. Enter the pre-measured Scale width and click Calibrate. If the program immediately issued that the calibration was successful, then this is very cool. Otherwise, you will have to play with the camera settings. Turn off various "improvers" of the image, remove the automatic adjustment of brightness and contrast, as well as tracking autofocus. If there is manual focus, then make the image of round marks more clear. You will also have to choose the distance from the corner to the lens and the tilt of the camera. The calibration process may take a long time, but once it is completed, carefully secure the camera and calibration angle immediately and do not touch them again.
Before each new scan, the calibration process will have to be repeated. Now you can place the scanned object in a corner (possibly on a stand) and go to the 3D Laser Scanning section. The object must be in the center of the camera image, and parts of the calibration angle must be visible to the left and right. To verify this, turn on the laser and point it at the sample - a line should be visible on the image both on the left and right, and on the object itself. Note that a translucent or transparent sample cannot be scanned - it must be covered with something like talcum powder or matte paint. In general, matte objects are much better suited for scanning.
Now you need to shade the room (turn off the light sources, curtain the windows). Aim the laser again at the sample. At this time on the screen, ideally, you should see only a red line on a black background. If this is not the case, then you will have to open the webcam settings again and change them. But first, it's worth moving the exposure value slider (Exposure) left and right. Oh yeah, don't forget to choose the color of your module's laser light. Once everything is ready, you can start a test scan.
Switch the display mode to the depth map (Camera Shows -> Depth Map). Gently move the laser beam into the webcam's field of view. The beam should be as horizontal as possible, as thin as possible, and the module itself should be held above the camera. Move the beam up and down along the scanned object - and you will see how the program draws its contours in space on the screen with a slight delay. You can't move the beam too fast, but moving too slowly won't do any good either. Try to “paint over” the sample with as dense a grid of lines as possible. It is also necessary to ensure that there is no "dirt" - extra lines around the object. It is best to hold the laser module in your hand and only move it with your hand. At the end, it will be necessary to carefully bring the beam line beyond the calibration angle.
Most likely, you will be able to achieve a clean scan far from the first time. Experiment with the settings of the camera and the scan itself, the position of the camera and laser, lighting, filtering (Result filtering, but it is better not to change these values), and so on. In general, you need to properly fill your hand. But then everything will be much easier. As soon as you get comfortable and select the optimal values for all parameters, proceed to the final scan. Press Stop and Erase, and then Start again and make the first scan of the object. As soon as it seems to you of sufficient quality, click Stop, and then Add to list. Just in case, save a separate copy of the scan by clicking Save As.
Click Stop and Erase again. Rotate the object around the vertical axis so that it intersects at least a little with the previous position. Repeat the scanning procedure in this way until the object has rotated 360 degrees. Don't forget to save copies of your scans and add them to the list. In principle, it is not at all necessary to rotate the sample around one of the axes (sometimes this is simply impossible), it will just be more convenient. Your task is to get 3D scans of the object from all sides in order to merge them together and export them.
Let's leave the texturing process for self-study and move on to stitching, which is the responsibility of the Shape Fusion module. You can also do this manually in almost any 3D editor. DAVID-Laserscanner saves scans in the open Alias Wavefront (*.obj) format, but in the demo it deliberately lowers the quality. You should already have a list with scanned items ready. We need to align them with each other. Select an alignment type from the list. If you "twisted" the object around one axis, then select it. Well, if you also turned to a strictly defined angle, indicate it. Then click Align Scans and select two adjacent scans from the list. The program will “think” for a while and try to align them with each other in a couple of options. Select the most accurate using the buttons with rounded arrows at the top of the window.
Repeat the alignment procedure in pairs between list items - 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, and so on. As a result, you will get a rough 3D model. It is possible that some scans will not align in any way - you can throw them out or start alignment from the end of the list, gradually approaching the problem area. You can try choosing a different alignment type for them. Do not pay attention to the "dirt" around the object and the imperfections on its surface - the program will eventually smooth them out. In general, the more scans, the better the model can be. But then the probability of a random error also increases. Here, as with the scanning itself, one has to go through the difficult path of trial and error.
As soon as you consider that you have achieved the desired degree of scan alignment, press the Fuse button and wait while the program prepares a three-dimensional model. Like leveling, this process is quite resource-intensive. Very soon you will be able to enjoy (or, conversely, be disappointed in) the result of your actions. By the way, DAVID-Laserscanner has an alternative mode of operation where a projector is used. If you have one, then you can experiment with it, and not with the laser.
The finished model can be exported to the same obj format and opened in a 3D editor for final fine-tuning and preparation for printing. Naturally, an exact copy of the scanned object cannot be obtained. Firstly, the DAVID-Laserscanner is especially difficult to get into various tricky recesses or cavities. Secondly, to reproduce very small patterns on the surface (for example, frequent notches), a high resolution of the camera and as thin a laser line as possible are required. Thirdly, when scanning, in any case, gaps are obtained, which the program tries to fill in, based on the position of nearby points. In general, the ideal, as always, is unattainable.
Finished, maximally smoothed model
In addition, there are obvious limitations on the size of scanned objects. Too small ones will not be obtained due to the relatively low resolution of the scan, and for very large ones, it is necessary to find an appropriate size for setting the calibration angle. In addition to DAVID-Laserscanner, there are other software systems with a similar principle of operation. True, they often require additional devices to rotate the object or move the laser. However, even the homemade design described above can save a lot of time for inexperienced 3D modelers. So try, experiment and you will surely succeed! Good luck!
History of appearance
3D scanning technology appeared only a few decades ago, at the end of the 20th century. The first working prototype appeared in the 60s. Of course, then he could not boast of a wide range of features, but it was a real 3d scanner that did a good job with the main function.
In the mid-80s, scanning devices were improved. They began to be supplemented with lasers, sources of white light and dimming. Thanks to this, it was possible to improve the "capture" of the objects under study. During this period, contact sensors appear. With their help, the surface of solid objects, which did not differ in complex shape, was digitized. To improve the equipment, the developers had to borrow a number of optical technologies from the military industry.
The use of 3d scanners was of interest not only to designers of design studios, automobile concerns, but also to film industry workers. In the 80s - 2000s, different companies produced their own models of equipment: Head Scanner, REPLICA 3D scanner and others. Since then, the units have changed, improved, become more mobile and functional. The characteristics of a 3d scanner today are significantly different.
Methods and technologies of three-dimensional scanning
There are two main methods:
- Contact. The device probes an object through physical contact while the object is on a precision surface plate. The contact 3D scanner is extremely accurate. True, when scanning, you can damage or change the shape of the object.
- Contactless. Radiation or special light (ultrasound, x-rays) is used. In this case, the object is scanned through the reflection of the light flux.
3D scanning technologies:
- Laser. The functioning of the devices is based on the principle of operation of laser rangefinders. Laser scanners 3d are characterized by the accuracy of the resulting three-dimensional model. True, their use is difficult in conditions of object mobility. This is more of an indoor 3d scanner. Scanning a person with a 3d laser type scanner is almost impossible.
- Optical. In this case, a special laser of the second safety class is used. Optical 3D scanner has a high scanning speed. Its use eliminates any distortion, even if the object is moving. There is also no need for reflective labels. True, such devices are not suitable for the study of mirror, transparent or shiny products. But this is a great option for a 3d human scanner.
Modern 3d scanners
Devices can differ in many ways: scope, size, shape, technology. Modern units are used in both industrial and domestic areas. An industrial 3d scanner is useful in:
- engineering;
- medicine;
- production;
- design;
- film industry;
- the field of computer games.
I would like to pay special attention to the ultrasonic 3d scanner. He is a real find for modern medicine. The devices are supplied with energy, color, tissue, continuous-wave and impulse dopplers. This unit is characterized by the highest resolution, therefore it is popular in mammology, obstetrics, urology, the study of blood vessels and muscle tissues, echocardiography, neonatology, and pediatrics.
The principle of operation of the device is also different. The market offers a stationary or portable, that is, a manual 3d scanner. In the second case, a coordinate-sensitive detector or a charge-coupled device is used as a sensor. This unit is extremely convenient in that it can be freely moved. A portable 3D scanner is ideal for scanning hard-to-reach places or large objects. The measurement can be taken at any angle, around or under the test objects.
Devices are used in conjunction with different equipment. It can be not only a 3d scanner for a 3d printer, but also a 3d scanner for ipad. Modern manufacturers of such units produce mobile devices that work not only with desktop computers, but also with tablets or even smartphones. In addition, there are special programs that turn ordinary phones into scanners. For example, you can find a 3d scanner for android. It will help design unique parts, conduct rapid prototyping and digitize objects.
Which 3D scanner to buy? TOP 5 best 3D scanners of 2018 from 3Dtool
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In the modern world, all the development of new devices and prototypes is carried out in various CAD systems. All design: both technical products and design works takes place electronically. 3D models for everything in the world are already an established reality. That is why 3D scanners have appeared on the market to facilitate the creation of 3D models.
3D scanners are devices that very accurately create a three-dimensional copy of any physical object. And today we will tell you about the 5 best 3D scanners according to our version, which you should pay attention to.
1.
This is a desktop 3D scanner developed by Shining 3D. The company specializes in the production of 3D scanners for a variety of tasks. Sales are made all over the world.
For scanning, this scanner uses 2 cameras with a resolution of 1.3 megapixels.
The basic package of the 3D scanner includes an automatic turntable. What forms a single software and hardware complex.
The accuracy of scanning objects is up to 0.1 mm.
The scanner can also work in texture capture mode (i.e. scan in color).
There are 2 scanning modes: automatic (with turntable) and fixed (without turntable).
When working in automatic mode using a turntable, the 3D scanner is able to scan objects up to 200x200x200 mm in size.
Using the fixed scan function, you can scan large objects up to 700x700x700 mm, but without a rotary device.
The EinScan SE scanner scans an object by projecting a sequence of white light beams onto the object, the cameras in turn pick up any irregularities on the surface of the scanned object, and create a 3D model in the 3D scanner software online. 
The basic package includes:
- Scan unit (cameras and projector)
- Turntable for scanning
- Calibration field for initial scanner setup
- Base for placing scanner elements
- Software in Russian
Advantages:
- Ease of operation
- Maximum automated
Flaws:
- Not high accuracy
- Requires an NVIDIA graphics card.
2.
This is a universal, semi-professional 3D scanner, which is suitable for scanning objects from 5 cm to 3 meters.
When scanning, the principle of Structured Illumination is used.
The 3D scanner has three built-in scanning zones, thanks to which the user can optimally adjust the scanning parameters for objects of different sizes. If necessary, several scanning zones can be combined: for example, if a large object has a small area with small details that require high detail, it can be scanned with zone No. 3, while the object itself can be scanned with zone No. 1.
RangeVision Spectrum 3D scanner can work in three scanning modes:
- With the use of marks (which can be applied both to the scanned object itself and to the surfaces around it)
- Scanning using a rotary device (table)
- Scanning without a rotary device and without marks.
The scanner comes with one set of manually adjustable lenses for three scanning areas 
3D RangeVision Spectrum - allows you to get 3D models of objects with an accuracy of 0.04 to 0.12 mm. It is also suitable for performing engineering tasks, where its accuracy is sufficient. 
Separately, I would like to note advanced (expert) software. This is RangeVision's own development. The software is included with the 3D scanner, and the manufacturer does not charge for license renewals or updates. It allows you to perform both post-processing of the model after scanning, and very finely tune the scanner to the scanned object. 
The kit includes a turntable that allows you to easily scan small items weighing up to 5kg in automatic mode. You can also scan objects up to 3 meters without a turntable.
Advantages:
- High scan quality
- Large scanning range from 5 cm to 3 m
Flaws:
- Mastering the software will take time. However, as of 07/10/2018, RangeVision has released a new version of the software, which has become noticeably simpler.
3.
This is a handheld 3D scanner for scanning objects from 5 cm to 4 meters. Maximum scanning accuracy up to 0.05 mm (50 microns). Scanning speed: 550,000 points/second.
A 3D scanner is suitable for both scanning a person and scanning inanimate objects.
The scanner has the following modes of operation:
- Handheld HD Scan (high resolution handheld scan mode). The scanning accuracy in this mode is 0.1 mm. Scanning markers are required (supplied). Scanning in color is not possible. This mode is required for solving problems of scanning large objects with high accuracy in manual mode.
- Handheld Rapid Scan (quick manual scan mode). The optimal mode for scanning people. Scanning accuracy 0.3 mm. Scanning in color is possible (with a color scan module). This mode is suitable for fast scanning of large objects.
- Automatic Scan. Scanning is performed using a turntable. Scanning accuracy up to 0.05 mm (50 microns). Suitable for scanning small objects in automatic mode.
4.Fixed Scan (Fixed mode). Scanning takes place using a tripod and markers. The markers are randomly glued onto the scanned object. Object rotations occur in manual mode or by moving the tripod with the scanner around the object. Scanning accuracy 0.05 mm (50 microns). 
Shinig3D Einscan Pro Plus 3D scanner can additionally be equipped with the following modules: color scanning module, industrial package (tripod and rotary device).
After scanning, the operator receives files in the formats - OBJ，STL，ASC，PLY. These formats are suitable for all existing 3D printers, CNC machines or 3D editors. There will be no compatibility issues.
The Einscan Pro Plus 3D scanner is highly mobile and has the most simple operation. When creating it, special attention was paid to the possibility of working with the scanner by untrained people. Therefore, all processes are automated as much as possible.
The software is supplied with the scanner - free of charge.
Advantages:
- 4 operating modes
- Relatively low cost
- Process Automation
- Ease of use
Flaws:
- Requires a "gaming" computer with an NVIDIA graphics card to work
- To scan black, shiny, sparkling objects, a matt spray coat is required.
4.
This structured light based 3D scanner is the ideal choice if you need to create a 3D model of a medium size object in color, for example: a person, a car bumper.
Artec Eva is a versatile handheld 3D scanner, making it the market leader in professional handheld 3D scanners. The operation of the device is based on the safe technology of structured illumination. This is an excellent all-round solution for shooting any subject, including objects with black and shiny surfaces. 
This scanner does not need to be calibrated. it is calibrated from the factory.
Scanning accuracy up to 0.1 mm. 3D point positioning accuracy 0.5 mm.
The scanner is equipped with a 1.3 MPix camera.
Color scanning mode is supported. 
Scanning speed up to 2 million points per second, thanks to which, scanning is very fast.
Advantages:
- High speed 3D scanning
- Ability to work outdoors
- Scans black and shiny objects.
Flaws:
- Requires a gaming graphics card to work
- Solution cost
5.
A professional scanner that allows for 3D digitization of both large and small physical objects. Three scanning zones are provided for the 3D scanner, which allow you to digitize both jewelry and car body parts with the necessary detail and accuracy. 
The user can perform 3D scanning using auxiliary markers, according to which the software can automatically "assemble" to combine scans. In addition, thanks to the support of markers and the ability to import reference networks generated by GOM and Aicon photogrammetric systems, it is possible to achieve scanning accuracy of up to 0.05 mm on objects over 2 m. 
However, if you are dealing with museum exhibits or other objects that require special care, the RangeVision PRO5M 3D scanner will allow you to scan without markers and build a 3D model according to the geometry of the object itself.
The RangeVision PRO5M 3D scanner operating on structured illumination compares favorably with similar 3D laser scanners in terms of scanning speed.
This scanner is equipped with 5MP cameras and comes with a separate set of pre-configured lenses for each scanning area.
In addition, blue backlight technology is supported, which reduces the influence of ambient light.
The scan time is only 15 seconds. 
Basic equipment:
- scanning module,
- 2 industrial cameras
- A set of lenses for each scanning area
- Tripod with swivel head
- Set of calibration plates
- Mattifying spray
- Software.
Advantages:
- High quality and scanning speed
- Large scanning range from 5 cm to 5 m
- Professional software
- Automatic scanning with turntable and marks.
- Free software updates
Flaws:
- Mastering the software will take time
- Not suitable for human scanning
All 3D scanners presented in this article can be purchased from our company. And subscribe to our groups in social networks:
3D scanner
For the term "Scanner", see also other meanings.
A 3D scanner is a peripheral device that analyzes the shape of an object and, based on the data obtained, creates a 3D model of it.
3D scanners are divided into two types according to the scanning method:
- Contact, such a method is based on the direct contact of the scanner with the object under study.
- Contactless
- Active scanners: emit some directed waves at the object and detect its reflection for analysis: most often an LED or laser beam is used, less often x-rays, infrared radiation or ultrasound.
- Passive scanners: do not emit anything at the object, but rely on the detection of reflected ambient radiation. Most scanners of this type detect visible light, easily accessible ambient radiation.
The 3D models obtained by scanning can later be processed by CAD tools and, in the future, can be used to develop manufacturing technology (CAM) and engineering calculations (CAE). Tools such as a 3D monitor, 3D printer, or G-code-enabled milling machine can be used to output 3D models.
> see also
- 3D printer
- 3D graphics
- Photosculpture
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