Greetings to all my readers! Today you will learn how to check the motherboard for performance. Perhaps you are faced with a situation where your device (laptop, computer) began to often unexpectedly interrupt work (launching a blue screen), give some errors, boot poorly, or completely stop responding to startup attempts. If this is your case, then do not rush to get upset and think that now you have to look for a service center and spend money and time on repairs.
In this article, I will try to help you solve this problem yourself. To do this, you will need to diagnose such an important element of the computer as the motherboard, because it may be the solution to the problem. Do not worry about the fact that you do not have enough knowledge or experience in solving such a problem.
I will try to explain in an accessible language what should be done and how. Also, for diagnostics, you may need: a working power supply, a multimeter and a speaker. And we will start with the definition of the main technical concept.
What is a motherboard?
The motherboard is the main element of the computer system unit, to which all other elements are connected and connected. Thus, it is the connecting link of the entire system, carrying out the interaction of the elements included in this system. Schematically it looks like this:
And here is a visual example:
Where does the diagnosis begin?
The first and necessary step in the diagnosis is a visual inspection of the condition of the motherboard. We have to identify the presence of visible damage on its surface. To do this, remove the cover of the system unit and look directly at the motherboard. The first thing to look for is whether the electrolytic capacitors are swollen (as shown in the figure).
If yes, then you will have to change the entire board (replacing individual capacitors will not do). If swelling is not found, proceed to further inspection.
Carefully inspect other electrical components for darkening on their surface and erased inscriptions (shown in the figure).
The next step is to check the motherboard
Now we have to check the power supply system of the board. To do this, turn on the power supply and see if the light diode located directly on the motherboard lights up (shown in the figure).
The absence of light indicates that there is a problem with power access. In this case, the power supply, the computer power button, or a part of the motherboard may be faulty. You can replace the power supply and the board yourself, and a specialist will help you set up the button. If the LED is OK, go to the next step.
The third step is to check the power supply of the bios battery
This step is to check the power supply of the CMOS memory (an element located in the motherboard itself). This element is powered by a battery (CR2032 or CR2025). To do this, take out the battery and use a multimeter to measure its voltage. The norm is about 3V.
If the multimeter readings are not correct, replace the battery. If no problem is found again, go to step number four.
Fourth step
Let's do a more detailed test, disconnecting all the components connected to the motherboard from the motherboard, and try to find out if there is a problem in any of them. To do this, disconnect all connectors (RAM, video card), except for the central processor and power. After that, turn on the power supply and speaker to the network and press the power button on the computer.
If the motherboard is OK, you should hear one short and one long speaker beep, which indicates a malfunction of the RAM and indirectly indicates that everything is in order with the board. If the speaker is silent, then the motherboard is faulty. In this case, it will have to be replaced.
Next, connect the RAM modules and listen to the speaker again. If the RAM is good, you will hear one long beep and two short beeps. This indicates that a malfunction is possible in the video card.
We repeat the procedure, only this time, by connecting the video card and monitor. If all is well, then you will hear one beep in the speaker and see the BIOS splash screen on the monitor. If not, the problem is with the video card. However, the signal may be absent, and the video card will also be working. This can happen if the central processor has an integrated graphics core (you can determine its presence in the instruction manual or on the manufacturer's website).
How to check the motherboard for performance - video
So, we have analyzed all the necessary steps for self-diagnosis of your motherboard and how to check the motherboard for operability. If it was not possible to identify the presence of problems, you have only one step left - contact the service center. However, I hope that my article will still be useful and accessible, and the recommendations outlined will help you do without contacting specialists. Wish you luck!
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To start motherboard health check you will need a pre-prepared working power supply and a working processor. Since the computer processor rarely fails, you can get by with a power supply, but only 100% working. Borrow a power supply from friends or relatives while you test the motherboard. Without it, it will be impossible to diagnose.
1) To get started motherboard health check, you need to connect a working power supply and first of all conduct a visual inspection of the motherboard. It should be checked for control light diode on the motherboard.
The lack of indication of the control LED on the motherboard indicates a lack of power (the reason is that the part of the motherboard does not function). The next thing to check is capacitors on the motherboard. If there are, replacing them will not lead to stable operation of the system in the future. If you found swollen capacitors on the motherboard, then replace it, if everything is in order with the capacitors, proceed to the next step.
2) At the next stage, I propose to consider the problem associated with . A common cause of motherboard failure is the BIOS.
If the reason for the inoperability of the motherboard occurred after its firmware, or when the BIOS was flashed, the power was suddenly turned off on the network, and if resetting the BIOS does not help, then you have a direct road to the service center.
3) If all previous manipulations to revive your motherboard were unsuccessful, then you must first disconnect your power supply from the network, disconnect all devices of the system unit, leaving the power to the motherboard, the processor cooling system turned on and do not forget to connect the internal speaker to determine the malfunction system unit devices.
Connect the power supply to the network, the internal speaker should make a sound, the sound of RAM failure ().
If at this stage you hear a fault beep (continuous beep), then there is a good chance that your motherboard is working. If the internal speaker does not give any sound signals, then you cannot avoid replacing the motherboard.
4) If in the previous step you heard a beep of a malfunction of the RAM, then install a working RAM in the slot and turn on the computer. At this point, you should hear a video card failure beep. As a rule, the sound signal of a video card malfunction consists of four beeps - one long, three short. If you hear this beep, then most likely your motherboard is working, and the cause of the malfunction should be looked for in the video card of your computer.
5) At this stage, we will check the performance of the video card. If you heard a video card error beep in the previous step, insert your video card into the slot on the motherboard, remembering to connect the power to the video card (if there is an additional video card power connector). Connect the monitor to the system unit and turn on the computer. If you hear a short single sound from the built-in speaker, which informs about the health of the system unit devices and you see the BIOS splash screen, then your motherboard is working.
If this does not happen, then your video card is faulty and needs to be replaced.
If the previous points 1-4 are completed successfully, then the video card, hard drive, or some other device is the cause of the malfunction.
The motherboard is one of the most expensive components in a computer. Therefore, if there are problems in its operation, you should not immediately throw away the device and change it to a new one. It is advisable to test it and make sure it works. Motherboard failure most often manifested in the frequent appearance of a blue screen and spontaneous reboot.
Troubleshooting other items and LED indicator
Before starting work on testing, you need to remove any static electricity from yourself. Circuits on the motherboard are sensitive to any form of electrical charge, including static electricity from the human body.
Before proceeding with testing the performance of the motherboard, it is necessary to exclude a malfunction power supply And processor. You need to make sure that the processor is stable, and it is recommended to connect a new power supply for the duration of the test. After connecting the motherboard to the power supply and starting it up, a colored LED indicator should light up, which notifies you of its working status. If this does not happen, you should understand the reasons that violate its work.
Influence of external devices
It often happens that due to one poorly assembled external device the main board may not work. To reveal this error, you need to turn off the power and disconnect the mouse, keyboard, speakers, cords, joysticks, etc. Then the power is turned on and the computer starts up, if the motherboard worked, then the reason was not in it, but in one of the external elements.
Visual control
At the initial stage of testing, you need extract the board from the computer and conduct a visual inspection of it for visible defects: soot, stains, cracks, etc. It is necessary to carefully examine the electrolytic capacitors, they should not be swollen, since most often they cause the device to fail. If they swell, the entire motherboard will have to be replaced, since in this case it will never function stably. You also need to carefully inspect all electrical elements: resistors, microcircuits, etc. for burnout. In this case, it will be enough to replace the burnt element.
Good and bad capacitors Low battery and reset CMOS
A common cause of motherboard problems is a dead lithium battery. Should check her voltage, it must be at least 2.9 V. The battery needs to be changed about once every 2-3 years, and if the reason is in it, then to solve the problem, it is enough to replace the dead battery with a new one. 
Another way to check the device is reset CMOS setting. To reset the factory settings, it is necessary to close the corresponding contacts for 20 seconds. To do this, you need to rearrange the jumper, and then return it to its original position. The jumper is located on the system board near the batteries and is labeled CLR_CMOS or CCMOS. Such actions can lead to the restoration of the motherboard. 
Checking with a speaker and connecting to another computer
The power supply should be disconnected from the mains, and all cables should be disconnected from the system board, except for the power supply to the motherboard and processor. On the motherboard, only the processor, fan, and internal speaker should remain connected. After that, the power supply joins the network, and the computer starts by closing the corresponding contacts on the board, or by pressing a button on the front panel. If as a result of this the speaker will publish 1 short beep, this means that the device is working and ready for use. If there is no sound, the motherboard must be replaced. There are special tables that decipher the BIOS sounds that indicate malfunctions of various types of backplanes.
One of the easiest and surest ways to test is to connect the motherboard to another, working computer. Such actions with the highest probability will show whether it is in working condition or not.
Often a situation arises when a household appliance stops working due to a failed small minor part. Therefore, many novice radio amateurs would like to know the answer to the question of how to ring the board with a multimeter. The main thing in this case is to quickly find the cause of the breakdown.
Before performing an instrumental check, it is necessary to inspect the board for damage. The electrical circuit of the board must be without damage to the bridges, the parts must not be swollen and black. Here are the rules for checking some elements, including the motherboard.
Checking individual parts
Let's analyze a few details, in the event of a breakdown of which the circuit fails, and with it all the equipment.
Resistor
On various boards, this part is used quite often. And just as often, when they break down, the device fails. Resistors are easy to check for performance with a multimeter. To do this, you need to measure the resistance. With a value tending to infinity, the part should be replaced. Part failure can be determined visually. As a rule, they turn black due to overheating. If the value changes by more than 5%, the resistor needs to be replaced.
Diode
Checking the diode for a fault does not take long. Turn on the multimeter to measure the resistance. Red probe to the anode of the part, black to the cathode - the reading on the scale should be from 10 to 100 ohms. We rearrange, now the minus (black probe) on the anode is a reading tending to infinity. These values indicate the health of the diode.
Inductor
The board rarely fails due to the fault of this part. As a rule, a breakdown occurs for two reasons:
- coil short circuit;
- chain break.
After checking the resistance value of the coil with a multimeter, if the value is less than infinity, the circuit is not broken. Most often, the resistance of the inductance has a value of several tens of ohms.
Determining a turn short is a little more difficult. To do this, we transfer the device to the sector for measuring the voltage of the circuit. It is necessary to determine the magnitude of the self-induction voltage. We apply a small voltage current to the winding (the crown is most often used), we close it with a light bulb. The light blinked - there is no circuit.
Plume
In this case, you should ring the input contacts on the board and on the cable itself. We start the multimeter probe into one of the contacts and start ringing. If there is a sound signal, then these contacts are working. In the event of a malfunction, one of the holes will not find a “pair” for itself. If one of the contacts rings with several at once, then it's time to change the cable, since there is a short circuit on the old one.
Chip
A wide variety of these parts are produced. It is quite difficult to measure and determine the malfunction of a microcircuit with a multimeter; pci testers are most often used. The multimeter does not allow measurement, because in one small part there are several dozen transistors and other radio elements. And in some of the latest developments, billions of components are concentrated.
The problem can only be determined by visual inspection (damage to the case, discoloration, broken leads, strong heating). If a part is damaged, it must be replaced. Often, when a microcircuit breaks down, a computer and other devices stop working, so the search for a breakdown should begin with an examination of the microcircuit.
A motherboard tester is the best option for determining the breakdown of an individual part and assembly. By connecting the POST card to the motherboard and starting the test mode, we get information about the failure node on the device screen. Even a beginner who does not have special skills can perform an examination with a pci tester.
Stabilizers
The answer to this question, how to check a zener diode, every radio technician knows. To do this, we translate the multimeter into the position of measuring the diode. Then we touch the outputs of the part with the probes, take readings. We swap the probes and measure and write down the numbers on the screen.
With one value of the order of 500 ohms, and in the second measurement, the resistance value tends to infinity - this part is serviceable and suitable for further use. On a faulty one - the value for two measurements will be equal to infinity - with an internal break. With a resistance value of up to 500 hundred ohms, a half-breakdown occurred.
But most often, the bridges on the motherboard chip burn out - the north and south. These are circuit power stabilizers, from which voltage is supplied to the motherboard. Define this "nuisance" quite easily. We turn on the power supply on the computer, and bring our hand to the motherboard. At the site of the lesion, it will become very hot. One of the reasons for such a breakdown may be the field effect transistor of the bridge. Then we carry out a dialing on their conclusions and, if necessary, replace the faulty part. The resistance in a serviceable section should be no more than 600 ohms.
By detecting a heating device, a short circuit (short circuit) is determined on some parts of the board. When power is applied and a heating area is detected, lubricate the heating area with a brush. By evaporation of alcohol, a part with a short circuit is determined.
Many PC owners are faced with various errors and failures in the computer, but cannot determine the cause of the problem. In this article, we will look at the main ways to diagnose a computer, allowing you to independently identify and fix various problems.
Keep in mind that high-quality computer diagnostics can take a whole day, allocate it in the morning specifically for this, and do not start everything in the late afternoon.
I warn you that I will write in detail as for beginners who have never disassembled a computer in order to warn about all the possible nuances that can lead to problems.
1. Disassembling and cleaning the computer
When disassembling and cleaning the computer, do not rush, do everything carefully so as not to damage anything. Store the accessories in a safe place prepared in advance.
It is not advisable to start diagnostics before cleaning, since you will not be able to identify the cause of the malfunction if it is caused by clogged contacts or the cooling system. Additionally, diagnostics may fail to complete due to repeated failures.
Unplug the system unit from the outlet at least 15 minutes before cleaning to allow the capacitors to discharge.
Perform disassembly in the following sequence:
- Disconnect all wires from the system unit.
- Remove both side covers.
- Disconnect the power connectors from the video card and remove it.
- Remove all memory sticks.
- Disconnect and remove the cables from all drives.
- Unscrew and remove all discs.
- Disconnect all power supply cables.
- Unscrew and remove the power supply.
There is no need to remove the motherboard, CPU cooler, case fans, you can also leave the DVD drive if it works fine.
Gently blow out the system unit and all components individually with a powerful stream of air from a vacuum cleaner without a dust bag.
Carefully remove the cover from the power supply and blow it through without touching the electrical components and the board with your hands and metal parts, as there may be voltage in the capacitors!
If your vacuum cleaner does not work for blowing out, but only for blowing in, then it will be a little more difficult. Clean it well so that it pulls as hard as possible. We recommend using a soft bristle brush when cleaning.
You can also use a soft brush to remove stubborn dust.
Thoroughly clean the CPU cooler heatsink, first considering where and how much dust has clogged it, as this is one of the common causes of CPU overheating and PC crashes.
Also make sure that the cooler mount is not broken, the clamp is not open and the heatsink is firmly pressed against the processor.
Be careful when cleaning the fans, do not let them spin too much and do not bring the vacuum cleaner nozzle close if it is without a brush, so as not to beat off the blade.
At the end of cleaning, do not rush to collect everything back, but proceed to the next steps.
2. Checking the motherboard battery
The first thing after cleaning, so as not to forget later, I check the battery charge on the motherboard, and at the same time reset the BIOS. In order to pull it out, you need to press the latch with a flat screwdriver in the direction indicated in the photo and it will pop out by itself.
After that, you need to measure its voltage with a multimeter, optimally if it is in the range of 2.5-3 V. The initial voltage of the battery is 3 V.
If the battery voltage is below 2.5 V, then it is advisable to change it already. The voltage of 2 V is critically low and the PC is already starting to fail, which manifests itself in resetting the BIOS settings and stopping at the beginning of the PC boot, prompting you to press F1 or some other key to continue booting.
If you do not have a multimeter, you can take the battery with you to the store and ask them to check it or just buy a replacement battery in advance, it is standard and very inexpensive.
A clear sign of a dead battery is the constantly flying date and time on the computer.
The battery needs to be changed in a timely manner, but if you don’t have a replacement on hand now, then simply do not disconnect the system unit from the power supply until you change the battery. In this case, the settings should not fly off, but problems can still arise, so do not delay.
Checking the battery is a good time to completely reset the BIOS. This resets not only the BIOS settings, which can be done through the Setup menu, but also the so-called volatile CMOS memory, which stores the parameters of all devices (processor, memory, video card, etc.).
Errors inCMOSare often the cause of the following problems:
- computer does not turn on
- turns on once
- turns on and nothing happens
- turns on and off
I remind you that before resetting the BIOS, the system unit must be unplugged from the outlet, otherwise the CMOS will be powered by the PSU and nothing will work.
To reset the BIOS for 10 seconds, close the contacts in the battery connector with a screwdriver or other metal object, this is usually enough to discharge the capacitors and completely clear the CMOS.
A sign that the reset has occurred will be a lost date and time that will need to be set in the BIOS the next time the computer boots.
4. Visual inspection of components
Carefully inspect all capacitors on the motherboard for swelling and leakage, especially in the area of \u200b\u200bthe processor socket.
Sometimes capacitors do not bulge up, but down, which causes them to tilt as if they were just slightly bent or unevenly soldered.
If some capacitors are swollen, then you need to send the motherboard for repair as soon as possible and ask to re-solder all the capacitors, including those that are next to the swollen ones.
Also inspect the capacitors and other elements of the power supply, there should be no swelling, drips, signs of burning.
Inspect the disc contacts for oxidation.
They can be cleaned with an eraser and after that it is imperative to replace the cable or power adapter with which this disk was connected, since it is already damaged and oxidation has most likely occurred due to it.
In general, check all the cables and connectors so that they are clean, with shiny contacts, tightly connected to the drives and the motherboard. All cables that do not meet these requirements must be replaced.
Check that the wires from the front of the case to the motherboard are connected correctly.
It is important that the polarity is observed (plus to plus, minus to minus), since there is a total mass on the front panel and non-observance of the polarity will lead to a short circuit, due to which the computer may behave inappropriately (turn on every other time, turn itself off or reboot) .
Where the plus and minus in the contacts of the front panel is indicated on the board itself, in the paper manual for it and in the electronic version of the manual on the manufacturer's website. On the wire contacts from the front panel, it is also indicated where the plus and minus are. Usually the white wire is negative, and the positive connector can be indicated by a triangle on the plastic connector.
Many even experienced builders make a mistake here, so check.
5. Checking the power supply
If the computer did not turn on at all before cleaning, then do not rush to assemble it, the first thing to do is check the power supply. However, in any case, it won’t hurt to check the PSU, maybe it’s because of it that the computer fails.
Check the power supply when fully assembled to avoid electric shock, short circuit, or accidental fan failure.
To check the power supply, short the only green wire in the motherboard connector with any black one. This will signal to the PSU that it is connected to the motherboard, otherwise it will not turn on.
Then turn the power supply into the surge protector and press the button on it. Do not forget that the power supply itself may also have an on / off button.
A spinning fan should be a sign of turning on the power supply. If the fan does not spin, then it may have failed and needs to be replaced.
In some silent power supplies, the fan may not start spinning immediately, but only under load, this is normal and can be checked during PC operation.
Use a multimeter to measure the voltage between the pins in the connectors for peripheral devices.
They should be approximately in the following range.
- 12 V (yellow-black) - 11.7-12.5 V
- 5 V (red-black) - 4.7-5.3 V
- 3.3 V (orange-black) - 3.1-3.5 V
If any voltage is missing or goes far beyond the specified limits, then the power supply is faulty. It is best to replace it with a new one, but if the computer itself is inexpensive, then repairs are allowed, PSUs lend themselves to this easily and inexpensively.
The start of the power supply and normal voltages is a good sign, but in itself it does not mean that the power supply is good, since failures can occur due to voltage drops or ripple under load. But this is already determined in the subsequent stages of testing.
6. Checking the power contacts
Be sure to check all electrical contacts from the outlet to the system unit. The socket must be modern (for a European plug), reliable and not loose, with clean elastic contacts. The same requirements apply to the surge protector and cable from the computer power supply.
Contact must be reliable, plugs and connectors must not dangle, spark or be oxidized. Pay close attention to this, as poor contact is often the cause of failure of the system unit, monitor, and other peripheral devices.
If you have a suspicion of a power outlet, surge protector, power cable for a system unit or monitor, then change them as soon as possible to avoid damaging your computer. Do not delay and do not skimp on this, as repairing a PC or monitor will cost significantly more.
Also, poor contact is often the cause of PC failures, which are accompanied by a sudden shutdown or reboot, followed by failures on the hard drive and, as a result, disruption of the operating system.
More failures can occur due to voltage drops or ripples in the 220 V network, especially in the private sector and remote areas of the city. In this case, failures can occur even when the computer is idle. Try to measure the voltage at the outlet immediately after a spontaneous shutdown or reboot of the computer and observe the readings for a while. So you can identify long-term drawdowns, from which a linear-interactive UPS with a stabilizer will save.
7. Assembling and turning on the computer
After cleaning and inspecting the PC, carefully assemble it and carefully check that you have connected everything you need. If the computer refused to turn on before cleaning or turned on every other time, then it is advisable to connect the components in turn. If there were no such problems, then skip the next section.
7.1. Step by step PC build
First, connect the motherboard power connector and the processor power connector to the motherboard with the processor. Do not insert RAM, video card and do not connect disks.
Turn on the power of the PC and if everything is fine with the motherboard, the CPU cooler fan should spin. Also, if a buzzer is connected to the motherboard, a beep code usually sounds, indicating the lack of RAM.
Memory installation
Turn off the computer with a short or (if not possible) long press of the power button on the system unit and insert one stick of RAM into the colored slot closest to the processor. If all slots are the same color, then just the one closest to the processor.
Make sure that the memory bar is inserted evenly, all the way and the latches snap into place, otherwise it may be damaged when you turn on the PC.
If the computer starts up with one memory bar and there is a beep, then a code usually sounds, signaling that there is no video card (if there is no integrated graphics). If the beep code indicates problems with the RAM, then try inserting another bar in the same place. If the problem continues or if there is no other bar, then move the bar to another nearest slot. If there are no sounds, then everything is probably fine, continue on.
Turn off the computer and insert the second stick of memory into the slot of the same color. If the motherboard has 4 slots of the same color, then follow the instructions for the motherboard so that the memory is in the slots recommended for dual-channel mode. Then turn it on again and check if the PC turns on and what beeps it makes.
If you have 3 or 4 sticks of memory, then just insert them in turn, each time turning off and on the PC. If the computer does not start with a certain bar or gives a memory error code, then this bar is faulty. You can also check the motherboard slots by rearranging the work bar in different slots.
Some motherboards have a red indicator that glows in case of memory problems, and sometimes a segment indicator with an error code, the decoding of which is in the motherboard manual.
If the computer starts, then further memory testing occurs at another stage.
Installing a graphics card
It's time to test the video card by inserting it into the top PCI-E x16 slot (or AGP for older PCs). Do not forget to connect additional power to the video card with the appropriate connectors.
With a video card, the computer should start normally, without beeps, or with a single beep, indicating a normal self-test.
If the PC does not turn on or emits a beep error code for the video card, then it is most likely defective. But do not rush to conclusions, sometimes you just need to connect a monitor and keyboard.
Monitor connection
Turn off the PC and connect the monitor to the video card (or motherboard if there is no video card). Make sure that the connector to the video card and the monitor is connected tightly, sometimes tight connectors do not go all the way, which is the reason for the lack of image on the screen.
Turn on the monitor and make sure that the correct signal source is selected on it (the connector to which the PC is connected, if there are several).
Turn on the computer and a graphic splash screen and motherboard text messages should appear on the screen. Usually this is a suggestion to enter the BIOS using the F1 key, a message about the absence of a keyboard or boot devices, this is normal.
If the computer turns on silently, but there is nothing on the screen, there is most likely something wrong with the video card or monitor. The video card can only be checked by moving it to a working computer. The monitor can be connected to another working PC or device (laptop, player, tuner, etc.). Do not forget to select the desired signal source in the monitor settings.
Keyboard and mouse connection
If everything is fine with the video card and monitor, then we move on. In turn, connect the keyboard first, then the mouse, each time turning off and on the PC. If the computer freezes after connecting the keyboard or mouse, then they need to be replaced - it happens!
Connecting Drives
If the computer starts with a keyboard and mouse, then we begin to connect hard drives in turn. Connect a second drive without an operating system (if any) first.
Do not forget that in addition to connecting the interface cable to the motherboard, you also need to connect the connector from the power supply to the disk.
Then turn on the computer and if it comes to BIOS messages, then everything is fine. If the PC does not turn on, freezes or turns off by itself, then the controller of this disk is out of order and needs to be changed or taken in for repair to save data.
Turn off the computer and connect the DVD drive (if any) with an interface cable and power supply. If after that problems arise, then the drive fails in power supply and needs to be changed, it usually does not make sense to repair.
At the end, we connect the main system disk and prepare to enter the BIOS for initial setup before starting the operating system. We turn on the computer and if everything is fine, proceed to the next step.
When you turn on your computer for the first time, enter the BIOS. Usually, the Delete key is used for this, less often others (F1, F2, F10 or Esc), which is indicated in the prompts at the beginning of the download.
On the first tab, set the date and time, and on the “Boot” tab, select your hard drive with the operating system as the first boot device.
On older motherboards with a classic BIOS, it might look like this.
On more modern ones with a graphical shell, UEFI is a little different, but the meaning is the same.
To exit the BIOS and save the settings, press F10. Do not get distracted and watch the operating system fully boot to notice possible problems.
After the PC has finished loading, check if the fans of the processor cooler, power supply and video card are working, otherwise it makes no sense to perform further testing.
Some modern video cards may not turn on the fans until a certain temperature of the video chip is reached.
If any of the case fans are not working, then this is not a problem, just plan to replace it in the near future, do not be distracted by it now.
8. Error analysis
Here, in fact, diagnostics begin, and everything described above was only preparation, after which many problems could go away and without it it made no sense to start testing.
8.1. Enabling memory dumps
If blue screens of death (BSOD) appear during computer operation, this can greatly facilitate the identification of a malfunction. A prerequisite for this is the presence of memory dumps (or at least self-written error codes).
To check or enable the dump recording function, press the key combination "Win + R" on the keyboard, enter "sysdm.cpl" in the line that appears and press OK or Enter.
In the window that appears, go to the "Advanced" tab and in the "Startup and Recovery" section, click the "Options" button.
The "Write debug information" field should be "Small memory dump".
If so, then you should already have previous error dumps in the C:\Windows\Minidump folder.
If this option was not enabled, then dumps were not saved, enable it at least now to be able to analyze errors if they are repeated.
Memory dumps may not be able to be created during severe crashes such as rebooting or shutting down the PC. Also, some system cleaning utilities and antiviruses can remove them, you must disable the system cleaning function for the duration of the diagnosis.
If there are dumps in the specified folder, then proceed to their analysis.
8.2. Memory dump analysis
To analyze memory dumps in order to identify what causes failures, there is a wonderful BlueScreenView utility, which you, along with other diagnostic utilities, can download in the "" section.
This utility shows the files that have failed. These files belong to the operating system, device drivers or some program. Accordingly, by the ownership of the file, you can determine which device or software was the cause of the failure.
If you cannot boot your computer in normal mode, then try booting into safe mode by holding down the "F8" key immediately after the disappearance of the motherboard graphic splash screen or BIOS text messages.
Go through the dumps and see which files appear most often as the culprits of the crash, they are highlighted in red. Right-click on one of these files and view its Properties.
In our case, it is easy to determine that the file belongs to the nVidia video card driver and most of the errors were caused by it.
In addition, in some dumps, the file "dxgkrnl.sys" appeared, even from the name of which it is clear that it refers to DirectX, which is directly related to 3D graphics. So, it is most likely that the video card is to blame for the failure, which should be subjected to thorough testing, which we will also consider.
In the same way, you can determine that the cause of the failure is a sound card, network card, hard drive, or some kind of program that gets deep into the system such as an antivirus. For example, if a disk fails, the controller driver will crash.
If you cannot determine which driver or program a particular file belongs to, then look for this information on the Internet by the name of the file.
If failures occur in the sound card driver, then most likely it is out of order. If it is integrated, then you can disable it through the BIOS and install another discrete one. The same can be said about the network card. However, network failures can be caused, which often resolves by updating the network card driver and connecting to the internet through a router.
In any case, do not make hasty conclusions until the diagnostics are completed, maybe your Windows just crashes or a virus has climbed, which is solved by reinstalling the system.
Also in the BlueScreenView utility, you can see the error codes and inscriptions that were on the blue screen. To do this, go to the "Options" menu and select the "Blue Screen in XP Style" view or press the "F8" key.
After that, switching between errors, you will see how they looked on the blue screen.
By the error code, you can also find a possible cause of the problem on the Internet, but it is easier and more reliable to do this by file ownership. You can use the F6 key to return to the previous view.
If different files and different error codes appear in errors all the time, then this is a sign of possible problems with RAM, in which everything crashes. We will diagnose it first of all.
9. Testing RAM
Even if you think that the problem is not in the RAM, still check it first. Sometimes a place has several problems, and if the RAM fails, then diagnosing everything else is quite difficult due to frequent PC failures.
Running a memory test from a boot disk is a must, as it is difficult to get accurate results on a Windows operating system on a failed PC.
In addition, "Hiren's BootCD" contains several alternative memory tests in case "Memtest 86+" does not start and many more useful utilities for testing hard drives, video memory, etc.
You can download the "Hiren's BootCD" image in the same place as everything else - in the "" section. If you do not know how to burn such an image to a CD or DVD, refer to the article where we reviewed, everything is done in the same way.
Set BIOS to boot from DVD drive or use Boot Menu as described in , boot from Hiren's BootCD and run Memtest 86+.
Testing can last from 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the speed and amount of RAM. One full pass should be completed and the test will go for the second round. If everything is fine with the memory, then after the first pass (Pass 1) there should be no errors (Errors 0).
After that, testing can be interrupted using the "Esc" key and the computer will restart.
If there were errors, then you will have to test each bar separately, taking out all the others to determine which one is broken.
If the broken bar is still under warranty, then take a photo from the screen using a camera or smartphone and present it to the warranty department of the store or service center (although in most cases this is not necessary).
In any case, it is not advisable to use a PC with a broken memory and carry out further diagnostics before replacing it, as various incomprehensible errors will pour in.
10. Preparation for component tests
Everything else, except for RAM, is tested from under Windows. Therefore, in order to exclude the influence of the operating system on the test results, it is advisable to do, if necessary, temporarily and most.
If this is difficult for you or there is no time, then you can try testing on the old system. But, if failures occur due to malfunctions in the operating system, some kind of driver, program, virus, antivirus (i.e., in the software part), then testing the hardware will not help determine this and you may go the wrong way. And on a clean system, you will have the opportunity to see how the computer behaves and completely eliminate the influence of the software component.
Personally, I always do everything right from start to finish as described in this article. Yes, it takes a whole day, but neglecting my advice, you can fight for weeks without determining the cause of the problem.
The fastest and easiest way is to test the processor, unless of course there are obvious signs that the problem is, say, in the video card, which we will discuss below.
If your computer, after some time after turning on, starts to slow down, freezes when watching videos, in games, suddenly reboots or turns off under load, then there is a possibility of overheating of the processor. In fact, this is one of the most common causes of such problems.
At the stage of cleaning and visual inspection, you should have made sure that the CPU cooler is not clogged with dust, its fan rotates, and the heatsink is firmly pressed against the processor. I also hope you didn't take it off when you cleaned it, as that requires replacing the thermal paste, which I'll talk about later.
We will use "CPU-Z" for the stress test with the processor warming up, and "HWiNFO" for monitoring its temperature. Although it is better to use the proprietary utility of the motherboard to monitor the temperature, it is more accurate. For example, ASUS has "PC Probe".
To begin with, it would be nice to know the maximum allowable thermal package of your processor (T CASE). For example, for my Core i7-6700K it is 64°C.
You can find out by going to the manufacturer's website from an Internet search. This is the critical temperature in the heat spreader (under the processor cover), the maximum allowed by the manufacturer. Don't confuse it with the temperature of the cores, which is usually higher and is also displayed in some utilities. Therefore, we will focus not on the temperature of the cores according to the processor sensors, but on the overall temperature of the processor according to the readings of the motherboard.
In practice, for most older processors, the critical temperature above which failures begin is 60 °C. The most modern processors can work at 70 ° C, which is also critical for them. You can find out the real stable temperature of your processor from tests on the Internet.
So, we launch both utilities - “CPU-Z” and “HWiNFO”, find the processor (CPU) temperature sensor in the motherboard indicators, run the test in “CPU-Z” with the “Stress CPU” button and monitor the temperature.
If after 10-15 minutes of the test the temperature is 2-3 degrees lower than the critical one for your processor, then there is nothing to worry about. But, if there were failures under high load, then it is better to run this test for 30-60 minutes. If during testing the PC freezes or reboots, then you should think about improving the cooling.
Keep in mind that a lot also depends on the temperature in the room, it is possible that in cooler conditions the problem will not manifest itself, but in hotter conditions it will immediately make itself felt. So you always need cooling with a margin.
In case of overheating of the processor, check if your cooler complies with . If not, then you need to change it, no tricks will help here. If the cooler is powerful enough, but can't cope a little, then you should change the thermal paste for a more efficient one, and at the same time the cooler itself may be installed more successfully.
From inexpensive, but very good thermal pastes, I can recommend Artic MX-4.
It should be applied in a thin layer, after removing the old paste dry and then with cotton wool soaked in alcohol.
Replacing the thermal paste will give you a gain of 3-5 ° C, if this is not enough, then simply install case fans, at least the most inexpensive ones.
14. Drive testing
This is the longest stage after the RAM test, so I prefer to leave it for last. To begin with, you can test the speed of all disks using the HDTune utility, to which I give "". This sometimes helps to identify freezes when accessing the disk, which indicates problems with it.
Look at the SMART options, where "disk health" is displayed, there should be no red lines and the overall status of the disk should be "OK".
You can download the list of the main SMART parameters and what they are responsible for in the "" section.
A full surface test can be performed using the same utilities from under Windows. The process can take 2-4 hours depending on the size and speed of the disk (about 1 hour for every 500 MB). At the end of the test, there should not be a single broken block, which is highlighted in red.
The presence of such a block is an unequivocal verdict for the disk and a 100% guarantee case. Save your data faster and change the drive, just don't tell the service that you dropped your laptop
You can check the surface of both conventional hard drives (HDD) and solid state drives (SSD). The latter really do not have any surface, but if the HDD or SSD drive freezes every time during the check, then the electronics most likely fail - you need to change or repair (the latter is unlikely).
If you are unable to diagnose the disk from under Windows, the computer crashes or freezes, then try to do this using the MHDD utility from the Hiren's BootCD boot disk.
Problems with the controller (electronics) and the disk surface lead to windows with errors in the operating system, short-term and complete freezes of the computer. Usually these are messages about the impossibility to read a particular file and memory access errors.
Such errors can be mistaken for problems with the RAM, while the disk may well be to blame. Before you panic, try updating the disk controller driver, or vice versa, return the native Windows driver as described in.
15. Testing the optical drive
To check an optical drive, it is usually enough to simply burn a verification disc. For example, using the Astroburn program, it is in the "" section.
After burning a disc with a message about successful verification, try to completely copy its contents on another computer. If the disc is readable and the drive reads other discs (except for poorly readable ones), then everything is fine.
Drive problems I've encountered include electronic failures that completely hung up or prevented the computer from turning on, breakage of the retractable mechanism, contamination of the laser head lens, and breakage of the head as a result of improper cleaning. In most cases, everything is solved by replacing the drive, since they are inexpensive and even if they have not been used for several years, they die from dust.
16. Hull check
The case also sometimes breaks, then the button sticks, then the wiring from the front panel falls off, then it closes in the USB connector. All this can lead to unpredictable behavior of the PC and is solved by a thorough inspection, cleaning, tester, soldering iron and other improvised means.
The main thing is that nothing is short, which may be indicated by a broken light bulb or connector. If in doubt, disconnect all wires from the front of the case and try to work at the computer for a while.
17. Checking the motherboard
Often, checking the motherboard comes down to checking all the components. If all the components individually work fine and pass the tests, the operating system is reinstalled, but the computer still crashes, it may be the motherboard. And here I won’t help you, only an experienced electronics engineer can diagnose it and identify a problem with a chipset or processor socket.
The exception is the crash of a sound or network card, which is solved by disabling them in the BIOS and installing separate expansion cards. You can solder the capacitors in the motherboard, but let's say replacing the north bridge is usually not advisable, since it is expensive and there are no guarantees, it is better to immediately buy a new motherboard.
18. If nothing helps
Of course, it's always better to find the problem yourself and determine the best way to solve it, as some unscrupulous repairmen strive to hang noodles on your ears and tear off three skins.
But it may be that you follow all the recommendations, but you will not be able to determine the problem, it happened to me. In this case, the matter is more often in the motherboard or in the power supply, maybe there is a microcrack in the textolite and it makes itself felt from time to time.
In this case, nothing can be done, bring the entire system unit to a more or less well-established computer company. No need to wear parts in parts, if you are not sure what the matter is, then the issue will never be resolved. Let them figure it out, especially if the computer is still under warranty.
Computer store specialists usually do not worry, they have a lot of different components, they just change something and see if the problem is gone, thus fixing the problem quickly and simply. They also have enough time to conduct tests.
19. Links
Transcend JetFlash 790 8GB
Hard drive Western Digital Caviar Blue WD10EZEX 1 TB
Transcend StoreJet 25A3 TS1TSJ25A3K
