The computer suddenly stopped turning on, an autopsy showed the presence of a swollen electrolytic capacitor in the +5 V power circuit on the motherboard. I had to replace the capacitor.
When I removed the motherboard, I was extremely surprised by its strong deflection in the processor installation area. I attached a ruler and realized that if urgent measures were not taken, then soon I would have to buy a new system unit.
Why does the motherboard flex
I already knew cases of motherboard failure due to deflection. Since the conductive tracks on the motherboard are very narrow and thin, they stretch and microcracks form in them. From temperature drops due to the linear expansion of materials, microcracks gradually turn into cracks. The track is broken and the board stops working. At first, the computer starts to freeze occasionally, then more and more often, and there comes a moment when it stops working forever.
Such a motherboard cannot be repaired, as it has up to seven layers, and it is almost impossible to find a broken track. You have to replace it with a new one, and additional costs arise, since most likely the processor, memory modules and other cards installed on the old motherboard will not be installed on the new motherboard, since there are no longer the necessary connectors. In practice, you have to buy a new system unit, although the old one was quite suitable for your tasks.
When studying the device for pressing the radiator to the processor, it became clear that the deformation of the motherboard is due to its illiterate (or deliberate) design. The heatsink is pressed against the processor, and the engagement holes for creating a force for pressing the heatsink against the processor are also located on the printed circuit board at a distance from the processor installation site. Thus, the processor presses on the board in one direction, and the heatsink engagement points in the opposite direction. This leads to deformation of the motherboard.
To avoid deformation, it is necessary that the acting and opposing forces that are applied to the motherboard from different sides are on the same axis, this requirement was the starting point for upgrading the design of the heat sink clamping device that does not deform the motherboard.
As you can see, the plastic clips have been replaced by spring-loaded screws, but that's not the only difference. The design used a metal plate and a dielectric thrust bearing. Screws are screwed into the plate, and the plate rests with a thrust bearing instead of installing the processor. Thus, the conditions for deformation of the motherboard are excluded.
Processor heatsink mounting system upgrade
In the photo you see the modernized clamping device assembled. Its design is so simple that almost anyone with minimal material processing skills can repeat it.
First, a metal plate is made of steel or aluminum alloy with a size of 85×85 mm and a thickness of 3 mm. The thickness of the plate is determined by the required mechanical strength. Dimensions are for GIGABYTE GA81915P-G motherboard clamp. Four holes with a diameter of 3.5 mm are drilled symmetrically at the corners of the plate at a distance of 72 mm along the perimeter from each other and an M4 thread is cut into them.
Next, a square dielectric plate with a size of 50 × 50 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm is made. The thickness of the plate is determined by the gap that must be provided to prevent the soldering on the motherboard from touching the metal plate. I cut out from foil fiberglass with metal scissors.
It remains to glue the plates together with any suitable glue or double-sided tape and the design is ready. Before gluing, it is necessary to attach the processor to the place of soldering and see if the solder protrusions or soldered radio elements will interfere. If they interfere, then in the insulating plate you need to make a sample or drill holes in the places where they touch. The plate should lie on the board with the entire plane. After gluing, it is necessary to attach the resulting combined plate again and check whether the metal part will touch the soldering points of the electrolytic capacitors. There are usually a lot of them around the processor. All protruding legs must be cut with side cutters. It remains to pick up the screws, springs and washers.
Ready-made compression springs of the required diameter and stiffness could not be found and the most suitable tension spring had to be modified. Of course, you can do without springs by putting plastic washers, but then it is difficult to get a perfect fit of the heatsink to the surface of the processor. I made springs from one spring from stretching the ground wire of the kinescope of the monitor. Such springs are used in any kinescope TV. The inner diameter of such a spring has 5 mm, the wire diameter is about 0.5 mm.
In order to stretch the spring, you need to thread two screwdrivers into its rings at the ends or take it with two pliers and, applying a little effort, very slowly pull to the sides until you feel that the metal has “succumbed”. Release the spring and see what happens. The step of winding the spring should be about 1 mm, if less, repeat the operation. In case of a miss, there are usually four springs in the kinescope, so there is something to practice on. The stretched spring is cut with wire cutters into segments eight turns long.
It remains to pick up four screws with an M4 thread 20 mm long.
I used beautiful screws that tighten the clamps for fastening the deflecting system to the neck of the kinescopes. But any will do, you just have to put standard washers on each side of the spring.
A fastener kit for upgrading the processor heatsink clamp has been prepared. Everything is ready to install a new mounting device, but first you need to dismantle the old one.
How to remove the processor heatsink attached to the clips
Installing a prepared new processor heatsink clamp requires the heatsink to be removed. The radiator is fixed to the eyelets with four plastic clips. To release them, you need to insert a screwdriver with a flat sting into the slot of each clip, and turn its moving part counterclockwise by 90 °.
Then with your hand pressing the radiator from above, pull the moving parts of the clips up one by one. The fixing pins will come out of the gap between the tabs of the latches, and the heatsink will easily pop up.
On the left in the photo, the pin pushed the latches apart, and they are securely fixed in the board. In the center, the movable black part of the clip is raised up. On the right, the pin has released the latches, they no longer catch on the board, and the heatsink can be easily removed. Next, the latches are removed from the radiator mounting lugs, they are no longer needed.
How to remove the cooler from the processor heatsink
Coolers on processor heatsinks are usually attached in two ways: - using latches and screws.
How to remove the cooler from the processor
fastened with latches
After the radiator is removed, it is necessary to unfasten the cooler from it and clean the radiator fins from dust. The cooler also needs to be cleaned of dust and, if necessary, lubricated bearings with graphite grease.
To remove the cooler from the radiator, you need to wring out two rather tight latches diametrically opposite with a flat-bladed screwdriver.
How to remove the cooler from the processor
fixed with screws
On some modern motherboards, the processor heatsink is secured with four long screws, in the manner described above in the bracket upgrade.
The board does not deform, but if you need to lubricate the noisy cooler, you have to remove the heatsink as well, since the cooler is fixed to the heatsink with common screws.
For the convenience of installing the cooler and radiator, the screws have grooves in which curly lock washers are fixed, and in order to remove the cooler for lubrication, you must first remove them.
To do this, you need to place a radiator with a cooler on the edge of the table so that the wine can move freely along the axis without resting on the table surface. Next, you need to put a wooden block or plywood on the screw so as not to spoil the thread, and apply a few blows with a hammer.
When removing the washers, you must be careful so that the springs do not fly away, otherwise you will have to look for them for a long time. The cooler is removed and you can start cleaning it from dust and lubrication.
Installing the cooler on the radiator is done in the reverse order. Springs are put on the screws, they are threaded through the mounting holes of the cooler and radiator. Next, lock washers are put on the screws and put in their original place.
To put the locking washer on the screw, you need to pick up a piece of tube or a nut that fits freely over the entire length of the screw.
Next, the vise must be adjusted so that between their jaws there is a distance slightly greater than the diameter of the screw. Hammer blows on the head of the screw are hammered into the lock washer until it sits in the groove.
If there is no vice at hand, then you can take a tube or a few nuts. The length of the tube or the total thickness of the nuts should be slightly greater than the length of the screw from the beginning of the thread to the groove.
It is possible not to put fixing washers on the screws, but in this case it will be very inconvenient to install a heatsink with a cooler on the processor.
The processor heatsink and cooler are assembled and it remains only to install them on the motherboard processor, not forgetting to evenly smear the old thermal paste on the surface of the processor and heatsink (if it is not dried) or apply fresh.
How to apply thermal paste
The old thermal paste from the processor and the contact surface of the heatsink must be completely removed, as it thickens over time, and if you install a heatsink without replacing the paste, the efficiency of heat removal by the heatsink from the processor will be lower.
It is better not to remove the processor from the crib, but if necessary, it is enough to take the lever aside and lift it up, then open the clamping frame and remove the processor.
The thermally conductive paste is silicone-based and can be easily removed with a cotton cloth. It is enough to press the fabric to the surface to rub it well.
Before applying a new thermally conductive paste, you need to check the device for fixing the radiator, install the radiator and tighten it with screws. If everything has risen well, you can proceed to the final installation of the heatsink on the processor. Since the contact surfaces of the processor and heatsink have good flatness, it is enough to apply a thin layer of thermally conductive paste on them. There are no requirements for the uniformity of application, since the paste has a soft consistency and spreads well when pressed.
I apply with a screwdriver blade. Thermal conductive paste can be purchased at any computer hardware store. Served in tubes or syringes. One milliliter will be enough for application.
Installing a heatsink on the processor
Now you can start installing the radiator. Put the heatsink on the processor, orienting it so that you have access to the cooler latches, then if you need to lubricate or replace it, you will be able to remove the cooler without removing the heatsink. The holes in the mounting tabs of the heatsink must be directly above the holes in the motherboard.
It remains to tighten the four screws, and the radiator will be installed in its place. To ensure uniform pressure, it is necessary that the ends of all screws protrude from the metal plate by the same length. The springs must be compressed by at least half of their length in order to create the necessary force for pressing the heatsink against the surface of the processor.
After installing the cooler on the radiator and connecting it to the motherboard, the modernization of the radiator clamping device to the processor on the motherboard can be considered complete.
If the computer system unit does not provide for processor cooling by supplying air from the environment, then I recommend working a little more by finalizing the processor cooling system as described in the site article
Man loves warmth. The warmth is comfortable and cozy, joyful and familiar. What a pity that the human brainchild - a computer - is trying to get rid of this heat as quickly as possible. One of these methods is the installation of coolers (fans).
As mentioned above, coolers are designed to remove heat. This is a "hybrid" heatsink and fan that is installed on computer components with increased / high heat dissipation. The main application is the CPU (central processing unit), video card, power supply, chipset chips.
The main characteristics of the cooler are the noise level and air performance. There is one caveat - these two characteristics are very rarely combined with each other. The higher the performance, the better the heat dissipation, but at the same time the noise level increases. In short, a double-edged sword.
One of the main computer coolers is designed to cool the CPU. It looks massive and performs well. Its "smaller brothers" are the fans on the video card, chipset and power supply.
The main "assistant" of coolers is thermal paste. Thermally conductive paste is used to reduce thermal resistance between two mating/closely spaced surfaces. It is applied to the area of thermal contact (between the cooler heatsink and the processor/board) and smeared when the surfaces are pressed against each other. In this case, the paste fills the smallest depressions in the surface, displacing air, which has a very low thermal conductivity. Thermal paste has already been applied to the surface of most modern coolers and covered with a special protective layer.
I seem to be talking. Initially, I wanted to offer you step-by-step instructions for replacing the cooler. As one saying goes: "Let's go back to our sheep." So, there is a task - replacing the cooler. To do this, we need: screwdrivers (cross-shaped and flat medium) - one, a cloth / damp cloth to remove thermal paste - two, a new fan - three, and heat-conducting paste (if one is not on the cooler) - four.
We turn off the computer from the network. Disconnect all cables. We take a Phillips screwdriver, run it along the back and side walls to remove static electricity (carefully so as not to scratch the case). Unscrew the screws and remove the side cover. We turn the "system unit" on its side. We see a large fan. We are going to change it. We turn the mount against the arrow of the pointer (located on the mount) until it stops, then pull it up. You should hear a soft click. We do the same procedure with the remaining three fasteners. If instead of four mounts you see two levers, then move the mount in the opposite direction (as shown in the picture). Cooler can be removed!
After the fan is removed, you need to wipe the processor with a damp cloth (rag, paper) to remove the remnants of the heat-conducting paste. We take a new cooler, remove the protective layer covering the thermal paste from it, carefully install the fan on the processor. There is a wide notch across the entire width of the base of the cooler, which should be above the socket ledge (see the figure below). If you install it with a notch on the opposite side, then the cooler will warp and there will be no connection between the processor and the sole. This threatens to chip the processor or thermal breakdown ("death" of the CPU).
After you have installed the cooler, try to refrain from tilting, rotating (pressing is also undesirable), or removing it. This is fraught with chips and failure of the CPU. If for some reason the cooler still had to be removed, then you will have to re-lubricate the required areas with thermal paste. If this is not done, so-called "air cushions" may appear, which lead to overheating and system instability.
It remains to fix the latches. The process is identical to removing the cooler, only everything needs to be done the other way around (we press the latches and scroll in the direction of the arrow). We did what we planned. It's time to return the side cover of the case to its place, connect all the cables, turn on the computer. By the way, in addition to changing the cooler, we have done another useful procedure - thermal paste replacement(over time, it can dry out, so we made a kind of prevention).
Now about video card coolers. They are easy to install (unscrewed 4 screws, removed the cooler, installed a new one, after releasing the thermal paste from the protective layer, tightened the screws), but it is difficult to choose the right one (this process causes certain difficulties).
In order to change the cooler in the power supply, you need to be “friends” with a soldering iron (if you have cheap models), because. in almost all standard PSUs, the fan wires are soldered. More expensive models won't be a problem. I removed the power supply, unscrewed the screws, removed the PSU cover, disconnected the old cooler (after removing the wires from the port), installed a new one, connected it, screwed the PSU cover.
That's actually all. Step-by-step instructions for replacing the cooler in your hands, general information - too. If you do not want to waste your time and be nervous because of the wrong cooler change, then contact the KLiK company. Experienced specialists will help to solve any issues with hardware and software. Urgent computer help waiting for your call.
During the operation of the computer, a large amount of dust accumulates on its internal parts. Several working fans (for example, on the processor, video card) ensure that dust enters the most inaccessible places. To check the condition of the processor, update the thermal paste, or simply clean out the dust, you must first remove the fan from the processor.
You will need
- Computer, small Phillips screwdriver
Instruction
The computer suddenly stopped turning on, an autopsy showed the presence of a swollen electrolytic capacitor in the +5 V power circuit on the motherboard. I had to replace the capacitor.
When I removed the motherboard, I was extremely surprised by its strong deflection in the processor installation area. I attached a ruler and realized that if urgent measures were not taken, then soon I would have to buy a new system unit.
Why does the motherboard flex
I already knew cases of motherboard failure due to deflection. Since the conductive tracks on the motherboard are very narrow and thin, they stretch and microcracks form in them. From temperature drops due to the linear expansion of materials, microcracks gradually turn into cracks. The track is broken and the board stops working. At first, the computer starts to freeze occasionally, then more and more often, and there comes a moment when it stops working forever.
Such a motherboard cannot be repaired, as it has up to seven layers, and it is almost impossible to find a broken track. You have to replace it with a new one, and additional costs arise, since most likely the processor, memory modules and other cards installed on the old motherboard will not be installed on the new motherboard, since there are no longer the necessary connectors. In practice, you have to buy a new system unit, although the old one was quite suitable for your tasks.
When studying the device for pressing the radiator to the processor, it became clear that the deformation of the motherboard is due to its illiterate (or deliberate) design. The heatsink is pressed against the processor, and the engagement holes for creating a force for pressing the heatsink against the processor are also located on the printed circuit board at a distance from the processor installation site. Thus, the processor presses on the board in one direction, and the heatsink engagement points in the opposite direction. This leads to deformation of the motherboard.
To avoid deformation, it is necessary that the acting and opposing forces that are applied to the motherboard from different sides are on the same axis, this requirement was the starting point for upgrading the design of the heat sink clamping device that does not deform the motherboard.
As you can see, the plastic clips have been replaced by spring-loaded screws, but that's not the only difference. The design used a metal plate and a dielectric thrust bearing. Screws are screwed into the plate, and the plate rests with a thrust bearing instead of installing the processor. Thus, the conditions for deformation of the motherboard are excluded.
Processor heatsink mounting system upgrade
In the photo you see the modernized clamping device assembled. Its design is so simple that almost anyone with minimal material processing skills can repeat it.
First, a metal plate is made of steel or aluminum alloy with a size of 85×85 mm and a thickness of 3 mm. The thickness of the plate is determined by the required mechanical strength. Dimensions are for GIGABYTE GA81915P-G motherboard clamp. Four holes with a diameter of 3.5 mm are drilled symmetrically at the corners of the plate at a distance of 72 mm along the perimeter from each other and an M4 thread is cut into them.
Next, a square dielectric plate with a size of 50 × 50 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm is made. The thickness of the plate is determined by the gap that must be provided to prevent the soldering on the motherboard from touching the metal plate. I cut out from foil fiberglass with metal scissors.
It remains to glue the plates together with any suitable glue or double-sided tape and the design is ready. Before gluing, it is necessary to attach the processor to the place of soldering and see if the solder protrusions or soldered radio elements will interfere. If they interfere, then in the insulating plate you need to make a sample or drill holes in the places where they touch. The plate should lie on the board with the entire plane. After gluing, it is necessary to attach the resulting combined plate again and check whether the metal part will touch the soldering points of the electrolytic capacitors. There are usually a lot of them around the processor. All protruding legs must be cut with side cutters. It remains to pick up the screws, springs and washers.
Ready-made compression springs of the required diameter and stiffness could not be found and the most suitable tension spring had to be modified. Of course, you can do without springs by putting plastic washers, but then it is difficult to get a perfect fit of the heatsink to the surface of the processor. I made springs from one spring from stretching the ground wire of the kinescope of the monitor. Such springs are used in any kinescope TV. The inner diameter of such a spring has 5 mm, the wire diameter is about 0.5 mm.
In order to stretch the spring, you need to thread two screwdrivers into its rings at the ends or take it with two pliers and, applying a little effort, very slowly pull to the sides until you feel that the metal has “succumbed”. Release the spring and see what happens. The step of winding the spring should be about 1 mm, if less, repeat the operation. In case of a miss, there are usually four springs in the kinescope, so there is something to practice on. The stretched spring is cut with wire cutters into segments eight turns long.
It remains to pick up four screws with an M4 thread 20 mm long.
I used beautiful screws that tighten the clamps for fastening the deflecting system to the neck of the kinescopes. But any will do, you just have to put standard washers on each side of the spring.
A fastener kit for upgrading the processor heatsink clamp has been prepared. Everything is ready to install a new mounting device, but first you need to dismantle the old one.
How to remove the processor heatsink attached to the clips
Installing a prepared new processor heatsink clamp requires the heatsink to be removed. The radiator is fixed to the eyelets with four plastic clips. To release them, you need to insert a screwdriver with a flat sting into the slot of each clip, and turn its moving part counterclockwise by 90 °.
Then with your hand pressing the radiator from above, pull the moving parts of the clips up one by one. The fixing pins will come out of the gap between the tabs of the latches, and the heatsink will easily pop up.
On the left in the photo, the pin pushed the latches apart, and they are securely fixed in the board. In the center, the movable black part of the clip is raised up. On the right, the pin has released the latches, they no longer catch on the board, and the heatsink can be easily removed. Next, the latches are removed from the radiator mounting lugs, they are no longer needed.
How to remove the cooler from the processor heatsink
Coolers on processor heatsinks are usually attached in two ways: - using latches and screws.
How to remove the cooler from the processor
fastened with latches
After the radiator is removed, it is necessary to unfasten the cooler from it and clean the radiator fins from dust. The cooler also needs to be cleaned of dust and, if necessary, lubricated bearings with graphite grease.
To remove the cooler from the radiator, you need to wring out two rather tight latches diametrically opposite with a flat-bladed screwdriver.
How to remove the cooler from the processor
fixed with screws
On some modern motherboards, the processor heatsink is secured with four long screws, in the manner described above in the bracket upgrade.
The board does not deform, but if you need to lubricate the noisy cooler, you have to remove the heatsink as well, since the cooler is fixed to the heatsink with common screws.
For the convenience of installing the cooler and radiator, the screws have grooves in which curly lock washers are fixed, and in order to remove the cooler for lubrication, you must first remove them.
To do this, you need to place a radiator with a cooler on the edge of the table so that the wine can move freely along the axis without resting on the table surface. Next, you need to put a wooden block or plywood on the screw so as not to spoil the thread, and apply a few blows with a hammer.
When removing the washers, you must be careful so that the springs do not fly away, otherwise you will have to look for them for a long time. The cooler is removed and you can start cleaning it from dust and lubrication.
Installing the cooler on the radiator is done in the reverse order. Springs are put on the screws, they are threaded through the mounting holes of the cooler and radiator. Next, lock washers are put on the screws and put in their original place.
To put the locking washer on the screw, you need to pick up a piece of tube or a nut that fits freely over the entire length of the screw.
Next, the vise must be adjusted so that between their jaws there is a distance slightly greater than the diameter of the screw. Hammer blows on the head of the screw are hammered into the lock washer until it sits in the groove.
If there is no vice at hand, then you can take a tube or a few nuts. The length of the tube or the total thickness of the nuts should be slightly greater than the length of the screw from the beginning of the thread to the groove.
It is possible not to put fixing washers on the screws, but in this case it will be very inconvenient to install a heatsink with a cooler on the processor.
The processor heatsink and cooler are assembled and it remains only to install them on the motherboard processor, not forgetting to evenly smear the old thermal paste on the surface of the processor and heatsink (if it is not dried) or apply fresh.
How to apply thermal paste
The old thermal paste from the processor and the contact surface of the heatsink must be completely removed, as it thickens over time, and if you install a heatsink without replacing the paste, the efficiency of heat removal by the heatsink from the processor will be lower.
It is better not to remove the processor from the crib, but if necessary, it is enough to take the lever aside and lift it up, then open the clamping frame and remove the processor.
The thermally conductive paste is silicone-based and can be easily removed with a cotton cloth. It is enough to press the fabric to the surface to rub it well.
Before applying a new thermally conductive paste, you need to check the device for fixing the radiator, install the radiator and tighten it with screws. If everything has risen well, you can proceed to the final installation of the heatsink on the processor. Since the contact surfaces of the processor and heatsink have good flatness, it is enough to apply a thin layer of thermally conductive paste on them. There are no requirements for the uniformity of application, since the paste has a soft consistency and spreads well when pressed.
I apply with a screwdriver blade. Thermal conductive paste can be purchased at any computer hardware store. Served in tubes or syringes. One milliliter will be enough for application.
Installing a heatsink on the processor
Now you can start installing the radiator. Put the heatsink on the processor, orienting it so that you have access to the cooler latches, then if you need to lubricate or replace it, you will be able to remove the cooler without removing the heatsink. The holes in the mounting tabs of the heatsink must be directly above the holes in the motherboard.
It remains to tighten the four screws, and the radiator will be installed in its place. To ensure uniform pressure, it is necessary that the ends of all screws protrude from the metal plate by the same length. The springs must be compressed by at least half of their length in order to create the necessary force for pressing the heatsink against the surface of the processor.
After installing the cooler on the radiator and connecting it to the motherboard, the modernization of the radiator clamping device to the processor on the motherboard can be considered complete.
If the computer system unit does not provide for processor cooling by supplying air from the environment, then I recommend working a little more by finalizing the processor cooling system as described in the site article
Powerful processor it is comfort and convenience when using a computer. It happens that when buying a computer or laptop, people choose the wrong CPU, which is slower than necessary to solve their tasks. This usually happens because of savings and hope for further computer upgrade(when the money will be), or simply because of a lack of knowledge. But even if a top-end CPU was bought, then in a few years it manages to become morally obsolete, and the processor's performance is no longer enough to solve the tasks assigned to it. In this case, you can do computer upgrade: replace processor . In this article, we will talk about how to remove the cooler and replace the processor in a normal desktop computer (desktop system). Such upgrade laptop is quite complicated, and sometimes completely impossible. Even if your notebook model allows such an upgrade, then instructions for replacing the CPU for your particular model must be found on the net.
Processor replacement procedure in general, simple and unpretentious:0. Turn off the power from the system unit! Disconnect all wires from it!
1. Open the system unit;
2. Remove the cooler from the CPU;
3. Open socket with processor;
4. Replace the processor;
5. Close the socket;
5. Apply a layer of thermal paste to the new processor;
6. Install the cooler.
How to open the system unit: this is usually done by unscrewing several screws around the perimeter of the rear panel of the system unit. Modern case models Increasingly, knurled screws are being used that do not even require a screwdriver to remove. Do not rush to unscrew all the screws! Most likely, it is possible to remove only one side cover, behind which full access to all components of the system unit opens. In order to remove the sidewall (or the entire casing), you need to slightly shift them in the direction from the front / front panel to the rear wall (literally 1 centimeter). After that, the removed element will easily separate from the chassis. So, we coped with the case ... Put it on its side to make it more convenient to work.
How to remove the cooler: There are many variations possible in this step. It all depends on the installed cooler model. Usually, the method of dismantling should become clear after a visual inspection. We recommend that you perform these operations in a sufficiently free space where you can rotate the entire computer case to a more comfortable position without interference.
If the system is equipped Intel CPU and the most popular standard solution for cooling it, it is quite simple. It is necessary to turn 4 plastic pins with a flat head in the direction indicated by the arrow on their "hats" and slightly pull up. After these manipulations with each of the pins, you can , also gently pulling it up.
If your system unit is equipped AMD CPU and a box cooler, then find on it one or a couple of levers that need to be "thrown" to the other side. After that, the bracket pressing the heatsink will loosen and allow you to “throw off” its ends from the hooks on the socket (socket for the CPU), after which you can remove cpu cooler.
In the case when a non-standard solution for cooling the CPU is installed, then most likely you will need a screwdriver, which needs to unscrew a few screws (usually four) that hold heatsink on cpu. It is quite possible to have an additional frame on the back of the "motherboard" to prevent the latter from bending. You can see examples of such "non-standard" mounts in the photo above. In the most difficult cases, it may be necessary to remove the video card or even the entire motherboard from the case, but this is quite rare. Such systems are usually used by enthusiasts who like to "dabble" in extreme processor overclocking and video cards. So, if you have never removed a cooler and are not an IT enthusiast, then 90% of your system is equipped with a typical CPU cooling solution, and there should be no problems with removal.
In addition, we only pay attention to the fact that there should be a layer of thermal paste between the heatsink and the processor, which could already wither, as a result of which the CPU and the heatsink may stick together a little - in this case, after unscrewing (unfastening) the cooler, you need to apply some force when removing it. Additionally, you can try to slightly rotate the heatsink relative to the processor - this way it is easier to peel off the cooler. If the thermal interface is not dry, then it is very gets dirty- take this moment into account and have a rag or hand wipes on hand.
How to remove the processor: you need to free it from the socket, by raising the lever, pressing either the processor itself (Intel) or clamping its legs in the holes with contacts (AMD). Be careful with the removed CPU - do not drop it. In the event of a CPU falling without legs on a soft floor, nothing terrible should happen - the processor should not break. If there are legs on its underside, they may bend and you will have to straighten them. If you drop the processor on a tiled or granite floor, then it is quite likely that the crystal substrate containing hundreds of the thinnest conductors will chip. In the latter case, the processor can be thrown away - it can no longer be restored. All in all - be careful!
New powerful processor is installed in the socket in exactly the same orientation as the old one. For Intel CPU there are usually a couple of "troughs" on the ends of the CPU substrate and corresponding protrusions in the socket. AMD Processors most often have a marked corner, which is indicated at the top by a white triangle and have a bevel on the "pattern" of the contacts of the lower side. After correctly positioning the CPU, insert it into the socket and clamp it using the provided lever.
After you replaced the processor, it is necessary to apply a thin layer of thermal paste on it (on the surface in contact with the heatsink) and install cooler. Please note that powerful processors usually generate significant heat and must be cooled with a suitable cooler to avoid overheating and failure. Modern CPUs, of course, are equipped with temperature sensors and can reduce their power consumption (and heating), but this comes at the cost of slower performance ... and you replaced the processor to more powerful to improve speed! As a final step, don't forget to connect cooler power supply to the corresponding connector on the motherboard ( CPU_Fan), close the case of the system unit and screw in place the screws unscrewed in the first step.
Taskmanager on an 8-processor server with an Intel Xeon E7-2870.We recently talked about fastest processor for desktop systems: . Its installation in the socket on the motherboard may well be performed according to the instructions given above. Keep in mind that powerful CPUs generate a lot of heat, so it's better to buy a good cooler for such a "monster", which will be more productive than a regular / boxed one. This will secure your new powerful processor from overheating and save yourself from the annoying noise of the high-speed fan of the standard cooling system.
