Different types of sockets. Electric plug: types and description

October 12th, 2017

This is really very inconvenient. Okay, before people did not travel much around the world, now it is practically not a luxury. Remember when household appliances assembled in Europe began to come to us in Russia, how many problems there were with our Soviet sockets. We bought adapters, they burned. Only not so long ago they finally got rid of this problem.

I've been to Cyprus in the spring - there are completely unusual British sockets. In a small town in Russia, adapters cannot be bought, I had to run there upon arrival, look for, overpay. Soon I'm going to the Dominican Republic - and there are again other sockets, American (like). Adapters will again have to be bought locally, but not in one copy.

And all why ...

In the era of electrification, inventors from different countries proposed their own versions of the optimal sockets; all over the world were built different types of power generators.

First, the struggle of technology at the dawn of the development of electricity left its mark. We are talking about the confrontation between Thomas Edison and Nikola Tesla in the creation of direct and alternating current networks, respectively. While we know that AC power ultimately won out, DC infrastructure built in the United States up until the 1920s (and in Stockholm until the 1950s) has to be maintained and used up to the present day. ...

Secondly, many inventors have proposed their own versions of the optimal (in their opinion) sockets. For example, in 1904, the American inventor Harvey Hubbel received a patent for the first electrical outlet. By its design, it was a kind of plug-in adapter. The adapter was screwed into the socket instead of a light bulb, and an electrical device was connected to it.

The German engineer Albert Buettner created the "euro socket" we know today in 1926. And the first grounded socket was created by Philippe Labre in 1927.

And the national companies involved in the installation of electrical grids supplied their devices suitable for these grids. Accordingly, various types of plug connectors and sockets were introduced and their networks were designed. The developments of other countries were completely ignored.

Influenced the design of outlets and the availability of materials. For example, during World War II, the UK came up with a three-pin plug with a short copper fuse. This design made it possible to save reserves of copper for military needs. Curiously, the use of a 3-pin plug in the UK was in stark contrast to the rest of Europe and even North America, where 2-pin plugs were widely used and also differed in design, all due to lack of communication in the early days. power supply development.

Now, according to one classification, there are 12 types of sockets, according to another - 15. Moreover, sockets of one type sometimes accept plugs of another. However, upon learning that the country you are going to has the same type of outlet as at home, do not rush to rejoice! This is a solution to only half of the problem. In different parts of the world, the voltage and frequency of the current may differ.

Classification of types of sockets and plugs in different countries of the world

The most common are two standards: European - 220-240 V at 50 Hz and American - 100-127 V at 60 Hz. It is not worth checking what will happen if an electrical appliance operating from 100-127 V is plugged into an outlet with 220-240 V.

In some countries, one should be on the alert at all. For example, in most parts of Brazil, 127 V is used, but in the north of the country there is 220 V. And in Japan the voltage is the same everywhere - 110 V, the frequency is different: in the east, 50 Hz is used, in the west - 60 Hz. The reason is simple: first, German-made generators with a frequency of 50 Hz were purchased for Tokyo, and soon after that, American ones with a frequency of 60 Hz were supplied in Osaka.

Perhaps someday a single standard will be adopted. A universal socket for all types of plugs has already been developed. But for now it is up to everyone to establish it or not. In addition, you first need to come to a single voltage standard. And this comes up against huge financial costs for re-equipment and re-equipment of transformer substations, replacement of sockets and plugs.

* Voltage 100-127 V at 60 Hz is used by the USA, Canada, Japan, Mexico, Cuba, Jamaica, partly Brazil and other countries.

* Voltage 220-240 V with a frequency of 50 Hz is used in most other countries, but even with the same parameters, the type of outlets can vary greatly.

Here is a short description of some of them:

Types A and B - American socket

Type B differs from A in that it has a third hole for the grounding prong. Such sockets, as you might guess from the name, were invented in the United States and are common in North, Central and partly South America, as well as Japan and some other countries.

Types C and F - European socket

Just like A and B, types C and F differ only in the presence of grounding - it is in F. The European socket is used in most countries of the European Union, as well as in Russia and the CIS, Algeria, Egypt and many other countries.

Type G - British socket

In the UK, the socket has three flat holes, and this design appeared for a reason. The fact is that during the Second World War, the country experienced a copper deficit. Therefore, a plug with a short copper fuse and three plugs was developed. In addition to Great Britain, the same outlet is used in Cyprus, Malta, Singapore and other countries influenced by the British Empire.

Type I - Australian socket

This type of socket can be found not only in Australia, but also in New Zealand, Fiji, the Cook Islands, Kiribati, New Guinea, Samoa and sometimes in China, where types A and C are also common.

Type H - Israeli socket

Type H is only used in Israel and Palestine, and the prongs can be round or flat depending on when the unit was manufactured. The old technology had a flat rosette, but the new rosettes fit two options.

Type K - Danish socket

This outlet can safely claim the title of "the friendliest" in the world - its design resembles a smiling face. In addition to Denmark and Greenland, which is part of it, type K is used in Bangladesh and the Maldives - however, several types of outlets are common there at once.

Fortunately, all of these differences won't ruin your vacation or business trip - you just need to purchase a suitable adapter in advance.

Map showing the distribution of the different types of outlets in use around the world.(link to interactive map)

The world map shows the distribution of different types of plugs in use around the world. Countries using Type A and B are highlighted in red, countries using Types C and E / F (which are 100% compatible with each other) are highlighted in dark blue, countries using Type D are highlighted in brown, aqua is British type G, pink is Israeli types C and H , countries using Australian type I are highlighted in yellow, countries using C and J, gray types C and K, orange types C and L, purple in South African countries type M, pale blue countries use type N, and dark green Thailand types C and O. Please note that this simplified overview only shows the most common plug type and sometimes several systems in the same country.

For a complete and thorough overview of electrical plugs used in each country, click here.

List of countries in the world with corresponding plug and socket types, voltages and frequencies. link worldstandards.eu/electrici ...

A complete overview of all countries in the world and their respective plugs / outlets and voltages / frequencies used for household appliances. The table shows that in most countries the electricity supply is between 220 and 240 volts (50 or 60 Hz), significantly outperforming countries operating at 100-127 volts. The list also shows that types A and C are the most commonly used electrical plugs around the world.

Most countries have a well-defined plug and voltage standard. However, many Latin American, African and Asian countries use a motley collection of often incompatible plugs, and sometimes the voltage differs from region to region. This situation makes it difficult to travel to assess which adapter or transformer connector is needed for the trip. In this case, when the electricity situation in a country requires additional information, the country in question is highlighted in red. This link will take you to the detailed description: worldstandards.eu/electrici ...

Electrical appliances today are the main tools in everyday life (and not only), which have certain characteristics of power consumption of current and voltage.

For these parameters, they plan one or another power of the electrical network, selecting their elements: solid or stranded conductors (wires), as well as various types of sockets, which, in fact, will be discussed in this article.

So, a socket is an element of an electrical network, by means of which a detachable connection (connection) of an electrical device to a power source - an electrical network, occurs. Different countries apply different standards, respectively, the design and other parameters vary slightly.

However, in order to successfully make a choice, to find out how to choose the right outlet, you should be guided by the following basic data:

• the total power of the devices connected to the outlet;
• type of plug connected to the outlet of the electrical appliance;
• location and humidity and temperature conditions of the room;
• appropriate type of design and method of mounting the socket;
• the need for a built-in electronic component.

It is clear that you need to focus on the power of the device so that the outlet does not overheat, designed for a lower consumer power. You should also pay attention to which plug the device has, because Soviet standards are still used, which are not compatible. In addition, the sockets are classified according to the tightness of the case and other parameters, which we will consider below.

Types of sockets according to the power of the connected consumers

The total wattage of the appliances plugged into an outlet is a key aspect of outlet selection.

Ideally, each device should have one outlet and a wiring line, but sometimes there is an unplanned need to connect two or more devices to one outlet through a special electrical splitter.

There is a formula by which you can find out which sockets to choose for a particular device (with a solid margin, preferably), based on its power consumption, which is measured in watts (denoted by the letter W or Russian B):

That is, the current, measured in amperes (A), is equal to the power of the device (W, Watt) divided by the voltage (V, Volt). The fact is that the circuit breakers and sockets are selected according to the current strength, and only the power consumption is mentioned on the devices, therefore it is necessary to translate the values ​​according to this formula in order to compare them.

In practice, it looks like this: the electric stove has a power of 5 kilo watts, that is, 5000 watts and is designed for a voltage of 220 volts, respectively, 5000/220 = 22.7A. This means that the electrical outlet must be rated at least for this current strength.

Sockets of the old, still Soviet model, were used with a capacity of 6A and 10A, while modern household sockets are designed for a maximum threshold of 16A, a separate class is power outlets (not related to household ones, but used in everyday life in a number of cases). These power ones used in everyday life include a socket for an electric stove, which is designed for more than 16A - 25A and even more - 32A. However, most often high-power devices that require more than 25A are connected in a non-removable way, that is, directly with a power electric cable.

Here we are talking about the standards that are applied in the post-Soviet territories and the countries of the European Union.

There are two main types, from which you can determine which sockets to choose for an apartment or house, focusing on the type of plug and the presence / absence of a grounding conductor.

They (types of sockets and plugs) are designated by letters, the most common and universal is the European type C without a grounding contact, the so-called "Europlug", which is universal for the still widespread Soviet C1 / C, as well as European ones with grounding - French E and German F.

You can visually observe the most common types of outlets in different countries of the European Union and the CIS countries in the table below.

The most common types of household sockets in the CIS and Europe

Type C "Europlug"		It is used in all CIS countries, most European countries. Fully compatible with E, F and Soviet C1 / B plugs. Current strength - 6A, 10A, 16A. Voltage - 220-250V, frequency - 50Hz. There is no grounding contact. Application - household appliances of low and medium power, which do not require grounding.
		It is used in some European countries: France, Belgium, Poland, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Tunisia and Morocco. Rarely in the CIS countries. Fully compatible with Type C (CEE 7/17) and E / F (EE 7/7) plugs. Current strength - 10A, 16A inclusive. Voltage - 250V, frequency - 50Hz. There is a grounding contact. Application - medium power household appliances with grounding.
Type F "Schuko"		Used in most European countries (especially Eastern), this German standard for sockets is widespread in the market of the CIS countries. Fully compatible with C, E / F plugs; partially E (without touching the grounding contacts). Current strength - 16A (simple household) and 25A (power for electric stoves). Voltage 250V and 380V, respectively, frequency - 50Hz.

The sockets of the Soviet standard (C1 / A) are similar to type C "Europlug", however, they are sharpened for plugs with pins with a diameter of 4 mm, which makes it impossible to connect plugs of types E and F, as well as type C of modification CEE 7/17 (with plug diameter 4 , 8 mm). Of the modern plugs, only CEE 7/16 type C are supported by Soviet sockets. To make you understand clearly what kind of plugs they are, below is a table of their types, markings and capacities.

The most common types of household appliance plugs in the CIS and Europe

Soviet C1 / B		Until now, it is produced and used in the CIS countries as an alternative to CEE 7/16 Europlug (mostly a better alternative). Current strength - 6A, 10A. Voltage - 220-250V, frequency - 50Hz. Without grounding, compatible with European standards C, E, F modification without a round rim (or if the rim is broken off).
Pan-European CEE 7/16 (Europlug)		Most popular in Europe, excluding countries: Cyprus, Malta, Ireland, United Kingdom. It is used to power low-power devices without the need for grounding. Designed for a current of 2.5A, voltage 110-250V, frequency - 50Hz. Compatible with standards: C, C1, E, F.
Pan-European CEE 7/17		It is used in the CIS and European countries, except for the above. Application - power supply of household appliances of low and medium power, which do not require a ground loop. Current strength - 16A. Voltage - 220-250V, frequency - 50Hz. Has compatibility C, E, F. Not compatible with Soviet C1.
European French E CEE 7/5		Consists of application in France, Belgium, Poland. Application - power supply of household appliances of small, medium and higher power, requiring grounding. Designed for current 16A, voltage 250V, frequency 50Hz. Compatible with type C and E sockets respectively.
European German F under "Schuko", CEE 7/4		Widely distributed in the CIS countries, as well as in European Germany, Austria, Sweden, Norway and Holland. Application - power supply of household appliances of medium and high power, requiring grounding. Current strength 16A, there are modifications 25A, voltage 250V, frequency 50Hz. Compatible with type C and F sockets respectively.
European Hybrid E / F (Germany-France) CEE 7/7		Widely distributed in the European Union and CIS countries. Has a grounding conductor, compatible with that of sockets type E, F. It is used to power household appliances of low, medium and high power. Power ratings are equal to those of CEE 7/4 and CEE 7/5. Compatible with C, E, F sockets.

It was a list of sockets and plugs of those types that are used in the CIS and in Europe. A huge number of household appliances such as microwave ovens, refrigerators, dishwashers, heaters, electric kettles, washing machines and similar power-hungry appliances with grounding are included in the kit, with a plug of which has a hybrid E / F CEE7 / 7 type.

Widespread in such appliances and F CEE 7/4 plugs, which will not fit a French socket with a protruding earthing pin. Therefore, for such appliances, the types of electrical sockets of which are located respectively in the kitchen or bathroom and power such appliances, type F "Schuko" is installed, since both types of plugs are suitable for them.

Particular attention should be paid to what kind of room the outlet is selected for. If this is a bathroom or a kitchen area close to water, then you need to select an appropriate waterproof outlet. The same applies to outlets located outside the house and in open gazebos.

In the rooms, you can mount an ordinary outlet, but in the hallway, for example, where dust is brought from people with their outerwear, you should choose a dustproof outlet. In this case, the sockets have two coefficients of protection against both influences and how to choose sockets according to them, we will consider the markings of the sockets of which, by the way, there are two:

• IP marking;
• NEMA / UL marked.

IP marking is a set of letters and numbers, such as IP30. The first combination of letters IP is an abbreviation for "International Perfection", that is, "International protection" which indicates the degree of tightness of the case from moisture and dust particles inside.

Next are the numbers, the first indicates the degree of protection against dust, chips and other solids, as well as touch. The second is an indicator of protection against water, that is, IP30 is a simple household outlet with protection against solid particles of a certain size (see table below) and no protection against any effects of water. Here is a table for decoding these numerical values.

IP marking for protection against touch, ingress of large and small solids, dust

IP marking of protection against water influences of different intensity and angle

Also, in this marking, the third digit can be used, which indicates the shock resistance of the case, but this is not relevant in household outlets, so we will not consider it. Letters after the numerical value may also be present: H (denotes a high voltage device), M (tested in working order against water ingress), S (tested in non-working condition against water ingress), W (with additional protective equipment specified).

NEMA / UL mark is represented by the abbreviation "NEMA" followed by one or two numbers, with or without a letter at the end, for example NEMA / UL 3R. These four letters stand for National Electrical Manufacturers Association, UL stands for Underwriters' Laboratories.

This mark also indicates that these outlet standards are applicable in the United States and are certified accordingly. In the CIS and many European countries, this standard is very rarely used, but it is worth considering. There is a table with which you can decipher what the marking on the outlet means, as well as associate it with IP, we will consider it further.

Nema standard markings

Occasionally, you can see power cords supplied with computer equipment (monitors, power supplies) 125 / 250V power cords with two flat parallel perforated or solid contacts and one round - these are cords with a NEMA 5-15 connector designed for an appropriate outlet.

They are widespread in the USA, and it makes no sense to get an American standard socket in the CIS for them, it is better to separately purchase a cord at the other end with a CEE 7/4 connector for socket type F ("Schuko") or a hybrid CEE 7/7 compatible with socket type E and F. You can also use an adapter, but the first option is best at almost equal financial costs.

There are other types of markings indicating the strength parameter of the case, for example IK, accompanied by a digital value from 00 to 10, however, when choosing a household outlet, this is not relevant and is not worth considering.

Types of sockets by design and installation method

When choosing a socket, it is important to take into account the material from which the walls of the room are made, since this determines which sockets are better to choose - for a hidden or open installation method.

You can learn more about the basics of installation in these ways in the article "", but now we will consider a purely constructive part.

In addition, sockets are distinguished by the number of modules, which determines the number of connections, and there is also a division according to the materials from which their core is made. As for the installation method, the sockets can be divided into:

• waybills;
• built-in;
• portable.

In part, the installation method also dictates their design, which is manifested in the presence or absence of certain fasteners and mechanisms. Also, the design of the case itself is different, in general, we will consider.

Overhead sockets are used in cases when it involves an open installation method.

For example, in the case of a wall made of logs in a wooden house, when it is impossible, according to the norms and fire safety, to make slots in a solid log and install electrical elements there.

Thus, the wires are laid along the surface of the wall and the external electrical sockets are connected to them and mounted on a socket-box pre-installed on the wall plane.

There is another type of overhead sockets, which are mounted on the skirting boards in case the wiring passes through them.

They do not look aesthetically pleasing, and are also considered less reliable and break more often when the plug is pulled out sharply than built-in sockets, but in a log house the only alternative is carrying outlets.

Built-in sockets used in the construction of walls made of reinforced concrete, bricks, blocks.

They are also mounted in hollow frame panel board partitions made of fiberboard, chipboard, MDF and drywall.

They are mounted in a special plastic junction box pre-installed in a pre-drilled hole in the wall or partition.

In the design of the core of the socket, special spacer legs are provided, with which they fix it (the core) inside the mounting box, adjusting the expansion force with special screws.

Thus, all the working elements and cores of the electrical outlet are located in the thickness of the wall, only a limiting metal (or plastic) frame protrudes outward, which is then hidden by the body of the outlet.

Portable sockets can be found on sale as extension cords, they are supplied with a cord with a plug (most often hybrid E / F (Germany-France) CEE 7/7).

There are also many complete sets available without a cord, which can be easily connected to the outlet of an electrical cable from a wall or baseboard, thus avoiding wall installation work. However, such outlets are rarely used directly.

The housing is unscrewed with structural screws into two halves, the cable is clamped with a common clamp, and the contacts into the clamping terminals. In the design of such carrying outlets, a power on / off key and a power indicator can often be provided, for which they are convenient.

It is worth noting that the photo shows a very interesting and intricate socket, which is classified by the method of installation as stationary built-in, but has a portable element - a plug socket on an extension wire.

The design and device of a household electrical outlet

The most complex is the design of the socket for concealed installation, since it has additional fasteners, by means of which they are installed.

They can also be with or without grounding, with grounding contacts of different shape and area / conductor cross-section.

As for the durability and reliability of the socket, it depends on the alloy from which the contacts are made, as well as the base material. The new model, used in modern everyday life, the device of an electrical outlet consists of the following constituent elements:

• input contacts / terminals;
• output contacts;
• grounding contact (if any);
• insulator / base;
• frame.

Of course, the outlet kit may contain additional elements such as "curtains" (latches) or covers to prevent water ingress, various relays and other elements, but now we will consider a classic socket for hidden installation without any bells and whistles.

Input pins , they are also terminals, located at the end of the socket and are designed to connect electrical neutral and phase conductors, as well as a grounding conductor.

There are two types of wire fasteners that a modern socket has contacts, terminals: screw and screwless.

The screw connections fix the wire between the two plates, which are fastened together with a screw that is manually tightened by an electrician.

Screwless ones have a springy element that presses the plates, keeping them constantly in pressure, pressed.

Screwless clamps are considered more reliable, since under the influence of vibrations from the frequency of the current, the contact does not loosen or weaken.

The material from which the input contact plates are made is brass and bronze. Brass contacts are considered short-lived and quickly deteriorate in high humidity, and they also get very hot and are poorly compatible with aluminum wiring.

Output contacts , that is, detachable, into which the pins of the plug are connected, also called sponges, petals (but a socket with a grounding contact has a separately located conductor).

These plug-in contacts consist of pairs of parallel plates with oval extensions at the point where the pin is connected. The old model of the plate had special spring clamps that prevented their deformation and weakening.

The output contact plates are made of brass (tinned or uncoated) and bronze. The brass plates loosen over time and do not properly grip the plug pins, resulting in arcing and body melting. Tinned brass is more resistant to increased moisture, better current flow and heats up less.

Plates from a modern composition - phosphor bronze, have a good coefficient of spring deformation, respectively, they weaken less, and also heat up less and contribute to greater throughput. There are also silver-plated contacts that have the best conductivity, reliability and durability characteristics.

Grounding contact (PE yellow, yellow-green wire) is available in modern sockets, the most common in the CIS is a plug socket with a grounding contact type F, in which this conductor is fed in the form of a bracket that wraps around the plug in the places where it has grounding contacts.

From a technical point of view, there is nothing to describe, if we talk about standards and grounding device, then there are the following main types: TN-C, TN-S, TN-C-S.

When grounding TN-C, the grounding conductor is connected to the working neutral conductor because there is no separate grounding line.

If these conductors are combined in the outlet, then with a leakage of current, a short circuit will occur, which, in theory, should trip the circuit breaker.

With a TN-S system, there is a cable in the house that is responsible for grounding, and it is connected to the grounding terminal of the outlet. With TN-C-S, the common wire is also connected to the neutral and grounding contacts of the socket, but later it is disconnected to ground and neutral, respectively.

Insulator , it is also the dielectric component of the socket, is the very core of the socket with all the above-described elements contained on it, fixed by rivets or screws.

This element, also referred to as the base of the outlet, is the only one that does not transmit current, except for the case cover. The mounting brackets can also be attached to the base.

According to the material from which they are made, there are sockets with a ceramic base and a plastic base. The ceramic base is made of porcelain material, and has the best resistance to high temperatures, but at the same time is more fragile than plastic socket bases. As for the plastic bases of the sockets, they are refractory, but more prone to charring.

consists of a metal frame attached to the base. On the sides of this frame, spacer lugs can be located for fixing in the box.

From the front, it is a bounding metal rectangular frame, which does not allow the entire structure of the socket to be drowned deeper than it should be. The frame also provides an abutment against the wall so that the entire supporting structure becomes rigid.

On the frame there can be holes for additional fastening with self-tapping screws to the edge of the mounting box, as well as holes for latches of the plastic frame of the socket. On top of it, the socket frame is mounted on a screw (in the center) or / and additionally latches.

The socket frame can be solid or consist of a rim and a core, which has holes for power and ground contacts, as well as a mounting screw in the center. In the second case, the core presses the frame against the frame of the metal frame pressed against the wall.

Such a configuration of the socket housing is used if a double electrical outlet is required, or even a triple or quadruple, that is, paired using a separately purchased frame with an appropriate number of sections.

In cheap outlets, low-quality plastic is used, the frames from which turn yellow in a couple of years or lose color in the case of colored plastic. Also, it (cheap plastic) charred, cracked and crumbled faster.

Types of sockets with built-in electronic components and additional accessories

In addition to standard sockets, which have only a socket for connecting a plug, there are sockets with built-in electronics, universal sockets for any type of plug, as well as sockets with special latches to protect children from electric shock and hermetically sealed covers for rooms with particularly high humidity. Let us consider further what sockets it is advisable to install in this or that case.

(a residual current device) is sensibly installed in rooms where there is a high probability of electric shock, both on a straight line and through a device connected to it.

The essence of the built-in residual current device is that it measures the current leakage that occurs in the event of an electric shock from a person or current leakage through water, through the device body along the structural parts of the building, etc.

The moment the current leaks, the relay that supplies the outlet contacts of the outlet opens. The maximum that can be is a slight electric shock or a scanty leak, while health will not be affected, and the electrician will remain intact.

Socket with built-in time controller (time relay) is useful in the case when it is necessary to turn off the device after a while, but there is no one to do it. For example, an aquarium air compressor, electric heater, etc.

The element that controls the operating time and disconnection of the outlet from the power supply can be mechanical or electronic.

A mechanical controller, as a rule, opens contacts after loosening a pre-stressed (turning) spring element, a socket with a timer, in other words.

The electronic controller contains a microprocessor, which acts on a terristor switch, turning off the power, and can be programmed for complex time tasks, for a time schedule of multiple power on and off.

today it is not common in its stationary varieties, but there is already a prototype developed by the designer Muhyeon Kim.

In addition to the digital consumption indicator, it has a backlight that, depending on consumption, changes colors in the palette from blue (at minimum consumption) to red (at maximum consumption).

The idea of ​​such an outlet is quite clear - control of electricity consumption by a device connected to such an outlet. It can be a very useful device, for example, you turned on a 1.5 kW UFO heater and, in addition to controlling the feeling of temperature, you can clearly see how much electricity is consumed, look for the golden mean based on this.

has a plug shape that will fit almost any type of plug and grounding prong.

In addition, many of them have a built-in adapter for recharging USB (in the one in the photo in the upper part, the lid opens, there are USB connectors).

It is not widespread and does not enjoy particular popularity in the CIS, since the standards used for plug connectors are uniform and compatible with each other, and US standards are not applied at all in everyday life.

As for the sockets with protection, there are two types of them: with "curtains" and with covers. The first are sockets from children, they have protection in the form of flaps inside the lid, when you press firmly with a fork, the powerful spring elements are bent and the curtains are turned inside the free space of the case. They are protection from small children, if they decide to poke a knitting needle or screwdriver into an outlet.

With covers, the sockets do not pose an obstacle to children, therefore, they are installed if there is no such threat, and only in rooms with high humidity. There, depending on the tightness, there are different designs (with and without a seal).

AC adapters for plugs and sockets are divided into two main types:

• for equipment brought from abroad, the plugs of which do not fit into the sockets of the Russian standard;
• for sockets that are needed in another country to connect appliances with Russian plugs.

Almost all adapters are manufactured by ANTEL. Available in any quantity!
We sell plug adapters to organizations and individuals - we work for cash, as well as by bank transfer.

Those who travel to different countries often face the incompatibility of plugs on electrical appliances with outlets. Therefore, more experienced tourists foresee such a situation in advance and put in their travel suitcase one or two adapters to the socket - a simple device into which our plug is inserted, and the device itself is inserted into a "foreign" socket. And often it happens the other way around: the equipment brought from abroad does not want to be plugged into our socket. And the voltage fits, and everything else suits, but the pins on the plug are not the same or not so located. There are more than a dozen different standards for household sockets in the world, some of them can be joined without anything, but basically adapters are needed for such cases. ANTEL company has carefully studied this issue and produces adapters for sockets for almost all occasions.

A little help on the types of plug adapters:
- 2 flat parallel pins, used in North America, Canada, Japan, Cuba, etc.
- 2 flat parallel pins and a third in the middle round pin,
- 2 round pins (Russian standard),
adapter type "D" - "old British" - three round pins,
adapter type "E" - the plug has two round pins and a hole for grounding,
adapter type "F" - our usual socket with earthing spring contacts,
- three thick flat pins, used in England, Singapore, Cyprus, etc.,
adapter type "H" - three flat pins, diverging from the center at an angle of 120 degrees,
- two flat pins rotated 60 degrees, or three pins (Australian standard);
- three round thin pins, the center pin is slightly offset, used in Switzerland, etc.,
adapter type "K" - the plug has two round pins and a thick grounding socket,
- three round thin pins in one line, used in Italy, etc.,
- two thick pins and the third central one is even thicker, used in India, South Africa, etc.,
adapter type "N" - two flat pins at an angle of 120 degrees.

Adapters to the socket can be simple, designed to dock one type of connector to another. And there are also combined universal adapters (for example, the so-called), designed for the compatibility of several combinations of sockets and plugs at once. When choosing an adapter for the socket, you need to pay attention to the quality of the contact group: the plug must enter the connector with force, sit tightly in the socket and be pulled out with force. You also need to pay attention to the permissible current load. If you have any doubts about whether the adapter for the plug will withstand your load, contact the specialists for advice, you can find all the data for communication on our page "".

English plug adapter- the most essential thing in England! Money, reservations, documents - it's all clear. This is a must on any journey. As for the UK, you will definitely need adapter for english socket... Their sockets are absolutely incompatible with ours and with the so-called "euro" too.

Of course you can buy this adapter in England... But, firstly, it still needs to be found there, and secondly, it costs a lot of money there. For example, at Manchester airport I saw adapter for 14 pounds. In Russia, in any store of radio goods, you can find a whole set adapters, neatly arranged in a beautiful, convenient box at a price of 150 rubles. If suddenly you did not have them in the store - adapter for english socket easy to find in Chinese online stores.

Without this adapter, you won't be able to charge your phone, camera or shave.

UK Electrical Voltage compatible with our electrical appliances and sucks 230 Volts at 50 Hertz.

English plug adapter in a handy box

This is what the adapter itself looks like

The whole set

This is how it works

Sp-force-hide (display: none) .sp-form (display: block; background: # d9edf7; padding: 15px; width: 100%; max-width: 100%; border-radius: 0px; -moz-border -radius: 0px; -webkit-border-radius: 0px; font-family: Arial, "Helvetica Neue", sans-serif; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-position: center; background-size: auto). sp-form input (display: inline-block; opacity: 1; visibility: visible) .sp-form .sp-form-fields-wrapper (margin: 0 auto; width: 470px) .sp-form .sp-form- control (background: #fff; border-color: rgba (255, 255, 255, 1); border-style: solid; border-width: 1px; font-size: 15px; padding-left: 8.75px; padding-right : 8.75px; border-radius: 19px; -moz-border-radius: 19px; -webkit-border-radius: 19px; height: 35px; width: 100%). Sp-form .sp-field label (color: # 31708f; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-weight: bold) .sp-form .sp-button (border-radius: 17px; -moz-border-radius: 17px; -webkit-border-radius : 17px; background-color: # 31708f; color: #fff; width: auto; font-weight: 700; font-style: normal; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; box-shadow: none; -moz- box-sh adow: none; -webkit-box-shadow: none) .sp-form .sp-button-container (text-align: left)