Using the remote control to control the lighting creates a more comfortable environment. For example, when entering a site with an automatic light-on system installed, you can forget about looking for a switch in the dark. Also, remote control allows you to turn on lamps in any room or even forget about switches if the devices turn on automatically.
Remote control
Remote switching can be done in several ways. The most commonly used is a remote control.
When planning to install a remote light control system, you should remember that such equipment does not always need to be bought. In small apartments, it makes no sense to use a remote control, since the need to turn on a specific lamp is associated with a visit to a specific room. That is why it is worth considering in advance whether you need a remote light switching system.
It is worth installing a wireless lighting system in an apartment only if several tiers of lamps are installed in it. For example, if the room has a chandelier, ceiling and wall lamps, then it is more convenient to turn on when using the remote control.
Remote control is necessary if it is used to turn on lights located on the street or near the entrance to the house. The remote control can turn on lamps in technical buildings, near the entrance to the house, or control the illumination of such elements of the site as flower beds or a fountain.
In addition to the main remote control, you can use a key fob that performs a small number of functions. For example, key fobs are often used, which are designed to turn on lights near a gate or front door.
If you wish, you can install software on your computer that allows you to control lamps throughout the house. You can also configure the system so that the lamps can be controlled from the phone.
The easiest option is to install a wall controller. With the help of such devices, you can turn on the light in certain rooms and adjust the light intensity.
Centralized management
Remote control of lighting in a home can be organized in several ways. One of the most common is the installation of a shield. For example, if the lighting in the bathhouse or other building on the site is not needed, it can be turned off from the house thanks to the shield. At the same time, switching off and on devices can be done both by hardware and using a special controller.
Some home owners install and configure appliances so that they can be controlled from a computer.
Automatic lighting control
Automatic systems are very convenient, since if you wish, you can install motion sensors and forget about the need to look for switches in the dark. When it appears in the room, the light will turn on automatically.
Thanks to motion sensors, the light automatically turns off in the room after leaving it. Thanks to photocells, at dusk, a lantern near the front door starts to work. Also at night, the lanterns installed on the tracks are turned on. At dawn, the lights turn off automatically.
Automatic lighting control can occur thanks to a timer, if you need to turn on the light at a certain time. An example is the situation when a person comes home at the same time.
Control unit and controller
To turn devices on and off at a distance, you need to install and configure multiple devices. Some of them are controlled by the owner of the home, while others are powered by sensors or other devices.
The automatic lighting control unit is used to turn on and off groups of lighting devices. It connects to a specific group of products and, at the push of a button, contributes to the supply of power.
There are blocks that allow you to enable and disable the remote control. Each button on such a device can be programmed for a specific action.
The controller is required for automatic remote switching on of lamps. The installation of these devices should be trusted only by professionals, since making mistakes during connection can lead to the system being ineffective and even dangerous.
Control sensors
Such products are divided into two types:
- motion sensors;
- devices that determine the level of illumination.
Such devices work automatically. Pyrosensors are capable of detecting thermal radiation. Thanks to this, the lamps are turned on. The motion detectors work thanks to infrared radiation that does not pass through obstacles.
Remote lighting products are often purchased from Elektrostandard.
Remote controlled switches
Often, homeowners purchase products that are turned on using a remote control that sends infrared rays. The lamps are turned on when using a special remote control.
The advantages of such switches include:
- the ability to control lighting from anywhere in the house;
- the presence of programs that allow you to control the described devices from a smartphone;
- the ability to use adapters that convert infrared radiation into radio frequency.
By setting up the system so that it can be controlled with a smartphone, you can turn off any light in the house, no matter how far away you are from it.
Control panels
Both infrared and radio-controlled remote controls can be used to turn the lamps on and off at a distance. Products of the second type are more popular, as they differ in sufficient functionality. On such products there may be about 9 buttons that allow you to control several groups of lighting devices.
When you press a certain button, a signal is sent to all groups of devices, but only one responds. In smart home systems, such products allow you to control both lighting and household appliances.
Many home owners purchase products from the Electrostandard company, as they are quite reliable and can be used for a long time.
Types of remote switches
The described devices allow you to turn on and off lighting devices at a distance. They are divided into two types:
- devices with a motion sensor;
- products with sound perception.
The former turn on the light when someone appears in the room. The latter react to any sound. For example, they may respond to a clap or voice. Such devices allow you to forget about the need to look for the switch in the dark or go to it across the room to turn off the lamp.
Equipping a house with the described devices can make life much easier and make the house more comfortable. Most often, such equipment is purchased by people who live in apartments and large houses. In small apartments, such systems are not necessary.
Photocells and timers
The described devices are installed in places where they will not be exposed to light from lanterns or lamps. If this rule is not followed, a false positive will occur. It is worth noting that the described elements of the automated lighting control system do not fire during a flash of lightning or when the light from the headlights of a car hits them. The light is turned on only when the overall illumination level decreases.
All described devices make life more comfortable. The simplest equipment for remote control of lamps does not require additional wires to be connected throughout the house. To use them, it is enough to replace switches or install special blocks in lighting devices. To create a smart home system, you will need to create a network that will unite all devices.
The described devices are installed by people who create the illumination of the room. The remote control can control the brightness of additional. This allows you to create the right atmosphere in the room. For example, lighting can make a room feel more comfortable while watching a movie.
January 28, 2016 1:28 am
Despite the presence on the market of a fairly large number of companies dealing with “Smart Home” systems, most of them require deep integration into the existing electrics of your apartment, house or office. The prices for such devices from renowned manufacturers are also not encouraging, in especially neglected cases you will have to part with a four-digit amount for only one remote lighting control. And I'm not talking about rubles or hryvnia.
But in the past few years, the situation has begun to change dramatically. One after another, companies are born that offer home automation systems with good functionality at delicious prices. The company "" producing lighting control devices since 1997 provided me with its Mini Kit "Smart Home in 1 Hour" for review, which I will try to talk about today in the most accessible form. Looking ahead and in order to avoid premature comments, I will say that recruiting from a Belarusian company will not turn your home into a truly "smart" one, but at least it will allow you to come one step closer to this goal.
The text may contain and most likely does contain grammatical, spelling, punctuation and other types of errors, including semantic errors. I ask readers in every possible way to point out these errors and correct me through private messages.
▌About the company's products and the monitored set
Now "Nootechnika" sells two kits for self-installation: Mini and Maxi Kit. The latter is distinguished by the ability to manage more load groups and is equipped with additional temperature / humidity and motion sensors. I got the Mini Kit and it consists of:
The red wire extending outside the housing is a jumper that determines the mode of operation of the unit. Initially, the unit operates in relay mode, i.e. just turns on and off the load. Breaking this connection puts the device in dimming mode, which makes it possible to adjust the power of the corresponding devices (incandescent lamps, heaters, fans, etc.).
Units of the "SU" type appeared on the market quite recently, before that the dimmable (SN, ST) and "relay" (SL) units were sold as separate devices. There are only 5 models in the SU series, which differ in the maximum switching power: 0.2, 0.3, 0.5, 3, 5 kW. There are also modules included in the phase gap (SB series), waterproof blocks for outdoor use (SR series) and an LED strip controller (SD series). The catalog of power blocks with prices can be viewed on the official website of "Nootechnika"; there are also all existing models and for the SU111 series of blocks.
Switches (radio transmitters)
The delivery set includes two remote controls: PU311-2 and PU313-2. The company has a great variety of remotes, although in fact there are only 3 structurally different versions plus a remote control. The PU series has two revisions, which are designated as the prefix "1" and "2" at the end of the name. These are switches with touch keys in white or beige color and they differ primarily in the functionality of the keys themselves (they are not universal, despite the fact that they are touch sensitive). 
The working area of the remote control is matte to the touch, and the frame, which is its basis, is made of glossy plastic. In the upper left corner there is an indication LED, which is activated each time one of the buttons is pressed.
The remote control is powered by CR2032 batteries. The guaranteed battery life of the remotes is 1 year, but in reality it should be much longer. On the official website of the company, that when using the remote control 48 times a day (with a standard battery capacity of 210-240 mAh), the remote control will last for 3.8 years, taking into account the self-discharge of the battery. 1 year guaranteed as the maximum declared range (50 meters) remains in the first 1-1.5 years of operation. As such, the remote control does not have an indicator of a discharged battery; subsequently, it will be possible to determine a dead battery by a dimly glowing indicator at the time of command transmission.
There are one-, two- and three-channel remotes. An unlimited number of power blocks can be linked to each channel. The main thing here is not to get confused, since only up to 32 remotes can be tied to the blocks. The maximum range of work in open space is 50 meters. I experimented with the range and here's what I can say: the unit receives and executes commands at the stated distance, provided there is a direct line of sight from the window of the room in which it is installed. With reinforced concrete floors, everything is a little more complicated: at the entrance of a panel skyscraper, there is enough block for 2-3 floors, the signal no longer passes. Of course, there are no problems within the apartment.
The third version of the remote that I mentioned at the beginning is. As such, there is no switch in this case, there is only a transmitter unit for connection to return (push-button) switches. Here is the tactile response desired by many and the ability to use switches of any design you like. The remote control, the variety of wall switches and their cost can be contemplated at.
Ethernet gateway
It is connected to the local network and is an intermediary between the nooLite system and computers or mobile devices. It looks like a small black box with an external antenna. The package contains a power supply unit and a patch cord for connecting it to a router or modem. 
An album with additional photos, including images taken during the preparation process, is located at.
The Ethernet gateway does not have direct access to the Internet and operates on a local network. He also does not know how to request a DHCP address and is available only at 192.168.0.168, which can be changed to something else during subsequent configuration. I cannot but note that an ordinary user may have problems connecting this device, especially if this static address is already used by someone on the subnet. But I'll talk about this later.
PM111 motion sensor
Was purchased separately in order to equip one of the rooms with automatic lighting control. In terms of size, it is identical to the wall switches included in the Mini Kit, and in terms of its functions, it resembles them altogether, because simply sends an on and off command to the pre-assigned power unit. 
An album with additional photos, including images taken during the preparation process, is located at.
The PM111 is powered by two AAA batteries (included), and their charge should be enough for at least a year of operation. When the charge level is critical, the LED located under the lens of the thermal sensor will notify you with three short flashes every 8 seconds. On the rear panel there are three trimming resistors for setting: the threshold depending on the illumination (1 ... 100 lumens), the shutdown time after triggering (5s ... 21.8 minutes) and the sensitivity of the sensor. Parallel operation with any nooLite remotes is supported. For your information: sensor in and it.
▌Installation and configuration using the example of your own home
The most interesting thing is the installation. I am a little afraid of electricians, despite the fact that I am friends with electronics. For reasons unknown to me, she sharpens her grudge against me and as soon as the opportunity arises, she tries to show her superiority. This time there were no incidents, it is really possible to install the set in an hour, if everything is planned and prepared in advance. I will show the installation using the example of the apartment in which I now live. This is a rented apartment, the owner of which agreed to install the system and my subsequent "entertainment" with the apartment, provided that everything will return to its place at the congress. We have an unremarkable one-room apartment in a panel house of the type with the following lighting scheme:
The model was created in the program. Ceiling chandeliers were replaced with lamps for clarity
Even before receiving the kit, it was decided to purchase a motion sensor and an additional power unit, since one of the light sources in the case of using the Mini Kit in its "pure" form would be deprived of control. As a result, the application scheme took the following form:
By default, instead of the fourth block, block # 3 is tied to the third channel of the remote control, but for experimental purposes it was decided to swap them. The linking / unlinking process is quite simple and is described both separately and fully-fledged for the entire system. The second and third channel of the consoles control the light in the bathroom and corridor, which in fact is a clear example of the implementation of a pass-through switch, only without wires.
I started connecting the power units from the living room, having previously de-energized that part of the apartment's electrical network, which is responsible for lighting. Additionally, I recommend getting an indicator screwdriver (if not already) to check the lack of potential on the lines with which you are going to work. The process of dismantling the chandelier did not cause any difficulties, but the obscenely twisted wires, although they did not surprise, still left a certain residue.
An album with additional photos, including images taken during the preparation process, is located at.
Two white wires leaving the unit are connected to the mains, and two black ones to the subsequent load. For connection, the kit includes a set of 12 WAGO lever clamps. If you are still twisting, then stop immediately, I advise you to at least read here on Geektimes and the comments to it (there is valuable information on another such article).
Both single and stranded copper wire can be clamped into the "Vag" terminals. I learned this fact already in the process of writing the article, so the stranded wires from the chandelier were pre-tinned. I cleaned the conductors sticking out of the ceiling to remove any oxides that had formed on them.
The block did not fit into the chandelier bowl, so it was left outside. If there was a neutral wire in the junction box of the old switch, then it would be possible to place the unit there or be a power unit in the set. The unit antenna (white wire) must not be cut, twisted or hidden in metal bowls to avoid shielding.
In the kitchen, the block also did not fit into the plastic cover of the "chandelier". Yes, in quotes, because this is a stupid wire with a cartridge on which a hefty white cap was previously put on, absorbing a huge part of the light flux. It's time to lobby for the purchase of normal lamps. In the bathroom and in the corridor, similar steps were taken to install the power blocks.
For absolutely all points, 300-watt blocks are redundant, since I use 20-watt luminescent energy-saving lamps. In the living room, the total power consumption is 60 W. Even taking into account the double power reserve recommended by the manufacturer (especially when placed in places where air convection is difficult), such units are still redundant. With incandescent lamps comparable in luminous flux to the energy-saving lamps I installed, the situation would be diametrically opposite. Most likely it will not fail, but it will feel very "hot".
Installation of switches is much easier than connecting power blocks. They can be placed as you like and anywhere, except for mounting on metal surfaces. By default, the backplate is installed with self-tapping screws or pre-applied strips of tape.
We remove the old switch and, using all the same WAGO terminals, we close the wires as if the switch was on all the time. As it turned out, the junction box in the case of this switch is simply absent and the latter was inserted stupidly (just stupidly) into the drywall slot.
Yes, the yellow-green wire is the phase for connecting the corridor lamp. Sad, isn't it?
The native strips of scotch tape are too small for the hole, so my favorite double-sided foam tape was used. Now I am afraid that during the subsequent dismantling I will tear off the mounting frame with a piece of plasterboard wall.
An album with additional photos, including images taken during the preparation process, is located at.
That's it, one switch is installed and ready to use. With the second one, at one time I rushed about the room deciding where to place it - by the bed or in the same place near the sofa. In the photo below, during experiments, it was installed along with a stationary switch, which was later finally dismantled.
But the remote control by the bed is also convenient, despite the ability to control the light from a watch or smartphone. Therefore, the purchase and installation thereof is just around the corner. At the moment, the lighting control scheme looks like this:
Where B - blocks, P - remotes, and D - motion sensor. The latter, similar to the remotes, can be mounted on self-tapping screws or double-sided tape. For a start, a small piece of adhesive tape will suffice, since you will most likely have to "play around" with the placement of the sensor. At the maximum set sensitivity, the angle of view, revealed experimentally, reaches 120-130 degrees, and the operating range completely covers my kitchen (2.5 x 2.5 meters). After some experimentation, the sensor was placed on one of the kitchen drawers so that it was not affected by the local cooking lighting and the extractor hood lamp above the stove.
At the moment, the sensor is located on the right side of the handle
The sensor is triggered instantly, but a slight delay is still present due to the fluorescent lamp - it does not turn on immediately. I set the shutdown time to about 10 minutes. The sensor, it seems, should check the presence of movement before sending the shutdown command to the unit, but I either freeze at these moments, or the sensor simply does not notice me. As a result, the light goes out and you have to wait 4-5 seconds to re-check the presence of movement. The illumination threshold was set to 30% of the state when the sensor is always on and monitors movement. At this level, triggering occurs even on especially cloudy winter days, which is what I tried to achieve.
As for the snag about this sensor that I mentioned earlier. Imagine that in addition to the sensor itself, the controlled unit is tied to a wall-mounted remote control for manual control of lighting in the kitchen, as in my case. Neither the sensors nor the remote controls have feedback, and if the light in the kitchen turns on as a result of the motion sensor, and you turn it off using the remote control or the web interface, which will be discussed below, the motion sensor will continue to think that the light is turned on with its help and will continue to count down the preset 10 minutes to send the light off command. Got the point? If you re-enter the kitchen after turning off the light manually, the sensor will not work. Therefore, I untied this block from all consoles, including the scenario channel "Turn off all", since the motion sensor itself is able to turn off the light in the kitchen in the absence of movement.
Scripting channels are an equally interesting topic. In the Nootechniki catalog you can find both consoles with one scenario key, and with all three. Scenarios allow you to control an unlimited number of blocks (this is the basic feature of the remote control): turn them off all at the same time, turn on the corresponding block to a preset level of brightness or color (for an LED strip), or turn on the required group of lamps. Only one action can be performed with one channel, i.e. turning on and off a group of lamps with one key will not work. More about the scripting capabilities is written in (chapter 6) for the entire nooLite system. In general, before buying, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with it - this will save you from most of the questions.
Ethernet gateway, mobile control and Pebble watch
So far, I will only talk about the basic capabilities of the gateway. Information about the API and its integration into other Smart Home systems deserves a separate article. During installation, the manufacturer recommends that the router and Ethernet gateway be separated by at least half a meter. Wi-Fi network signal interferes with signal reception in temperature / humidity sensors. Of course, there are no latter in the younger set, but why not play it safe for the future? 
Special thanks to the developers for the green indicator (!) LED, and not the torn-out blue spotlight, which Chinese manufacturers like to use (the nearby Xiaomi, despite the blue LED, is an exception).
The first connection to the local network was not crowned with success. Firstly, my network is built on addresses like 192.168.1.x, which already made the gateway impossible to work. Okay, we transfer the subnet to 192.168.0.x, but nothing still happens, you can't go to 192.168.0.168. I assume that this network address is already occupied by some of the home devices and I directly connect the gateway to the computer via a patch cord. I assign the address 192.168.0.1 to the computer with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0.
That's it, now there is an opportunity to go to the gateway and even play around with turning the lights on and off. I recommend that you upgrade to the current software version and change the default gateway address to the one allocated to it in the settings of your router. Detailed instructions for flashing are in - I see no reason to repeat myself once again. There is already a third version of the software, but the second is current and stable, while the gateway itself comes with the first version. Updating the web interface is performed separately from the software update and is the second step in the overall update process. The firmware itself can be downloaded from the Nootechnika website.
The main innovations of the second version are the authorization setting, which previously did not exist at all (any person in the local network could control the lighting knowing only the gateway address), the functions "Dawn" and "Sunset", about which later, and, in fact, the ability to "forward" the required port to access the gateway from the external network. To do this, you need to have an external static IP address (as a rule, you can order from your provider, rent costs about $ 1-2 per month) and perform a set of simple manipulations with your router. Instructions on this topic are in the archive with the files for updating.
The main function of the gateway is to mediate between devices on the local network and the radio lighting control system. The gateway, unsurprisingly, copes with this task. On the start page of the web interface, blocks pre-associated with the gateway and pre-installed scripts are displayed.
Inside the menu item responsible for a specific block there are two buttons and an impromptu LED. In the case of dimmable blocks, a "slider" is added to the page to set the desired lighting level.
Besides the scenario "Turn off all" there are functions "Morning" and "Evening". All of them are independent and are not synchronized in any way with the scenario channels on the switches due to the absence of any feedback.
Writing a script is easy enough. You need to turn on, turn off or set to a certain power all the lamps that you want to use in the scenario and click the "Save" button. Thus, you can create any scenario, for example, "Watching a movie", when the lights in the whole apartment are turned off, and a sconce or something like that is activated near the bed at minimum power.
In addition to scripts, it is possible to set 8 weekly timers (icon in the upper right corner) and use them in scripts. Here you can recall the functions "Dawn" and "Sunset" added to the second version of the software. With the help of weekly timers, you can set, for example, that from Monday to Friday at 8 am the "Dawn" actions will be performed, as a result of which the selected group of lamps (the scenario, in fact) is activated with a smooth increase in brightness. This mode will work only in the case of using dimmable lamps and correspondingly configured power units.
In principle, that's all, this is where the main possibilities for controlling lighting from a gateway via a web interface end. Information about connecting sensors and working with them is in the user manual, which I already have.
In general, the interface does not look very good on computers with large monitors. originally designed for mobile devices. Applications for, and, in turn, are stripped-down versions of the web interface, since there are no opportunities to create timers, scripts, bind and unbind blocks, and much more. To enable or disable the load in the case of an Android client, slide switches are used. Already created scripts can be rewritten directly in the application.
After a whole month of operating the system, I never once used the web interface, simply because there was no need for it. Using my smartphone, I played with the light several times to demonstrate the system to friends and a couple of times in bed when the clock was on the table. With regard to the clock, everything is completely different. I resorted to their help every time I forgot to turn off the light with the switch. Yes, in the future I will most likely add another remote control near the bed (for a girl, for example), but so far they are doing quite well with this task.
As for the application for Pebble itself, it is quite justified by Vlad Zaitsev (vvzvlad) when he talked about the excursion to the production facilities of the Nootechnika company. Later I got used to the logic of the application in just a couple of days, so you can still use it. There is also an Apple Watch app, but I don't have an Apple Watch, so I won't show it to you.
▌Why do I (you) need this? Application of the nooLite system
Along with the solutions used in my apartment, I will show a few more examples of using this system. 1. A banal opportunity to place switch anywhere in the room: by the computer, bed, near the sofa or even on the window. No wiring needed. It is enough to purchase a power unit with a double power reserve and any remote control you like. More on this.
2. Pass-through switch... most often used in corridors, where one switch is installed at the beginning of it, and the other at the end. The person who entered the corridor turns on the light with the first switch, and at the exit switches it off with the second switch. Have you calculated how many wires you need to lay in the wall? And if you add another switch?
One power block and two switches completely solve this problem. In the case of a completed renovation, it will be even cheaper than re-chipping the walls.
3. Use in wooden houses where there are special requirements for the installation of electrical wiring. For those who did not know, hidden electrical wiring in wooden houses is at least not recommended, and in the case of using corrugated PVC pipes, it is completely prohibited. In general, the standards for wooden structures are quite strict and those who adhere to the rules and fear for their lives will have to spend either on good hidden wiring in metal sleeves, or to cover a beautiful tree with a 10 mm layer of plaster and lay the wiring under it. In the case of open wiring, the so-called "retro-wiring" with the use of stylized cables and ceramic insulators has recently gained popularity. The solution is beautiful, but far from the most practical, time-consuming and costly.
4. Wireless motion sensor for automatic lighting control... I would like, of course, to see more sensors in various form factors in Nootechnika's arsenal, but even what we have already allows us to automate the lighting in the apartment and save on electricity. The main advantage of the monitored sensor is the absence of wires. Usually these devices are included in the break of the phase conductor of the luminaire and additionally require zero for power supply. Those. both installation and subsequent movement of the sensor in case of unsuccessful placement are complicated. More on this.
5. Light control from watches, computers and mobile devices located in the same local network. You can, of course, get worn out and buy a static IP address from the provider, forward the port to the Ethernet gateway and completely control the lighting from anywhere in the world, but given the lack of feedback from the nooLite system blocks, the rationality of this solution, in my personal opinion, comes down to zero.
I'm afraid if I continue to describe all sorts of scenarios, then I will go beyond the limit on the number of characters set on the site for one article. More examples of the use of devices from "Nootehnika" are on their website. And yet, I know that a similar control can be implemented on the Arduino or even by assembling an independent device, so there is no need to write about it in the comments. It is better to calculate how long this will take for you, and then multiply by the cost of one of your hours. If this, of course, is not your hobby, but your wife, children or flatmates will be able to put up with the lack of light due to the debugging work you are doing.
▌Experience of operation or answers to some questions
I'm not the first to write about this system - a lot of materials were on, in various author blogs and even on. But the same questions arise from article to article. Thanks, in fact, to the company itself for the good tech. support and periodic updates on its official website. But even there is not everything, and some information is completely outdated, therefore, within the framework of the article, I will answer several questions that interested me personally and my friends. - How convenient are touch switches? How to be in the dark? Is there any backlighting?
No, there is no backlight, in the dark you have to navigate by touch. It was more convenient to do this in the switches of the first revision, since the buttons could be felt in the corners of the frame. In the second version, I periodically miss the center key. As such, pitch darkness in my house does not happen, either a desk lamp or a night light is always on, and given my beloved “creative mess”, with all my courage, I will not dare to move around the apartment in the middle of the night without, for example, a smartphone. If desired, you can change the touch switches to return ones using the remote controls.
- Can I turn on the light with my left toe in warm socks?
You can either left or right, but either in thin conductive socks, or without them at all. And you can also use your nose, yes. I'm not kidding, as such situations happen.
- What happens if the lights are turned off in the apartment? Are the blocks going to lose their binding? What state will they be in after the resumption of power supply?
Nothing will happen. In the event of an emergency power outage, the blocks will not lose their binding, since all information is stored in non-volatile memory. If we talk about the units of the SU series supplied in the kit, then they do not have the function of storing the state when the 220 V network is lost. For other models, see the company's website.
- Is it easy to hack into the system and gain control over the control of lights and electrical appliances?
Easy enough, because the system does not have any serious protection. And if you have an open Wi-Fi network and you are using an Ethernet gateway with the first version of the software, then any "passer-by" will only need to connect to this network and go to the standard gateway address 192.168.0.168. For radio control, only 16 bits of the address are used, respectively, the enumeration of possible 65536 combinations will take a few hours. There is also no protection of the proprietary protocol, the signal from the remote control is easy to "catch" and record. There was even an article on Habré about. The question is, who might need to "hack" the lighting control system in an average apartment or house? Except for some dirty schoolchildren, but they usually welcome other methods.
- How to predict when the batteries in remote controls will run out? I would not want to be left in the middle of the night without the opportunity to turn on the light.
I have already raised this question higher in the text, but still I will repeat myself, since it arises really often. As such, the remote control does not have a discharge indication, but as it approaches the critical charge level, the indication LED will glow dimmer and dimmer when transmitting commands. This is an indicator that it is time to replace the batteries. If during this time you do not bother to replace the batteries, and you will not be at home (as a person who can replace the battery in the remote control) or, in fact, CR2032 batteries, then yes, there will be no way to turn the light on or off.
▌Results
If you have read this article to the end, then you are at least a hero, since I have not yet written such large materials. It is simply unrealistic to cover in one article all the variety of a seemingly simple system like nooLite, I'm afraid to imagine what would happen if I got a full-fledged smart home controller with a bunch of peripherals for review. Probably, it would be possible to divide the review into two parts, but then the text would have turned out even more. From this material, I excluded the chapter on the operation of the system at the data transfer level and the preparation of the main components, but I will definitely write it later. I can safely recommend the official site of Nootechnika as an exhaustive source of information for further study of the system. Almost every device comes with detailed guides, videos, and quick infographics. There, on the site, the system and its individual components are collected, so there will be no traditional heading "Related links" at the end of the article.
As for the system itself, not only does it deserve attention, it also costs its money. Hobby solutions based on Arduino and the like are still not plug & play devices and require painstaking installation and configuration, and advanced systems for home automation based on Z-Wave or X10 protocols will cost a lot more.
What we liked
- Basic system price (block switch)
- Easy to install and configure
- Control from mobile devices in the local network (especially from the watch)
What did not like
- Lack of feedback, remotes and gateway are not synchronized in any way
- Gateway cost and functionality
What would I like
- Any protection (encryption of the data transfer protocol)
- Expansion of the possibilities of scenario channels (the ability to turn on and off the light with one scenario button, double tap to assign additional functions)
▌Where to buy and how much does it cost?
In the Russian Federation, the set can be purchased at the Madrobots store. The cost of the minimum set discussed in the article is, and you will have to pay almost 20 thousand for it.
Every year the dream of futurists is getting closer and closer. Not far off is the full implementation in reality of the "smart home" system, where electrical appliances "come to life" with the appearance of a person in the room. For example, this technology is embodied in lighting. Today, there are several systems that can create a wireless type of lighting control in the house.
Various systems can be used to create a wireless light control option at home. The most popular kits today are Zamel and NooLite. But before you independently and with your own hands install such modifications at home or in an apartment for wireless light control, you need to understand not only the principle of operation, but also the device of the systems itself. These are all important for correct installation and operation. Our article will help you understand all this.
What it is?
Wireless light control kit
A wireless lighting control system is a set of equipment with which the light level in a house or apartment will be controlled. This does not use a standard switch. Activation takes place via the remote control.
Such a system will be relevant both in large houses and in small apartments. At the same time, it will show itself to be effective in industrial enterprises. After all, such a system will allow you to get rid of wires, which not only make the appearance of the premises less aesthetic, but, say, in production, they can still become a potential cause of a traumatic situation.
Any kit (such as Zamel and NooLite) has a radio transmitter, which is the "heart" of the entire system. It is thanks to him that the signal is transmitted to each individual lighting device. Due to the range of the transmitter, the luminaire can be located at a sufficient distance from it.
Note! The distance from the transmitter can be up to three hundred meters.
Motion Sensor
Light control in such a wireless system is carried out by a special remote control. The console can be designed for a different number of channels. The volume of the channel depends on the model and type of kit (for example, Zamel or NooLite).
Such a remote control is capable of automating the operation of several dozen lamps at once within the range of the transmitter. As a result, the remote control here will act as a switch or light switch.
But the remote control is not the only addition that can be used to increase the comfort of your home in terms of lighting. For example, a set of wireless lighting control equipment can be equipped with a motion sensor.
Such devices react to the appearance of movement in the controlled area. If properly configured, the sensor will only respond to human movement, and smaller objects (pets) will not be able to activate the light.
Most often, a set of wireless equipment designed to control light on the street is equipped with motion sensors. But for the home, they are just as effectively used.
Principle of operation
As stated earlier, every wireless light control kit (such as Zamel or NooLite) has a radio transmitter. This includes radio transmitters that are capable of transmitting a signal to remote lighting fixtures, thereby activating lights on or off. The range of such devices allows transmitting signals to luminaires located at a distance of up to 300 meters.
How NooLite works
The radio transmitter receives the signal from the remote control, transmitting the signal to the luminaires. The remote control has multiple channels. These are usually two channels. But there are models that have not two channels, but as many as eight.
There is also a switch that allows you to control the lighting level without a remote control.
In addition, the kit often includes a radio doctor, which is necessary for the operation of the sockets and connection of the remote control. This kind of remote switch makes it possible to turn on / off the lighting using a mobile device. This is the so-called GRM switch.
Such a switch is capable of providing wireless control in two ways:
As a result, a wireless-type control kit will significantly simplify the creation and organization of complex lighting in a house or apartment. At the same time, you will spend a minimum of time installing equipment, even if you do everything yourself.
Benefits of Application
Remote control light
Using wireless lighting control equipment at home, you will receive the following benefits:
- an ordinary switch will leave your home forever;
- using the remote control, you will significantly increase the comfort of your home;
- automation of the work of several lighting devices at once. Each channel will have its own device, which can be controlled via a remote control;
- the absence of wires that need to be masked in the house when installing additional lamps after the completion of the repair;
- easy and simple installation, which can be done by hand;
Note! To connect all the elements of the system into a single whole, you need a circuit.
- energy savings are achieved by installing a motion sensor. It will allow you to turn on the light only when necessary;
- the ability to install wireless equipment to control light anywhere on the street or at home.
As you can see, by installing wireless equipment to control the level of lighting in the house, you will receive an impressive list of benefits. At the same time, anyone can install it with their own hands, without contacting the electrical network of the building.
Zamel kit
Zamel kit
Today, there are various kits for creating a wireless system for the purpose of controlling the level of lighting for a house or street. Each of them has its own characteristics.
One of the most popular types of wireless light control equipment is Zamel. The Zamel system is designed for two channels.
The Zamel system kit includes:
- radio transmitter model NK-04, push-button type for four channels;
- built-in radio receiver model ROP-02 for two channels. It can be built into back boxes or directly into lighting fixtures or other receivers.
The ROP-02 radio receiver can operate in several modes:
- like a switch;
- as a switch;
- monostable mode;
- time mode;
- bistable mode.
In terms of functional parameters, the Zamel kit is distinguished by:
- two output relays with potential-free contact 230 V AC;
- allows you to control not only lighting devices, but also other receivers;
- multifunctionality of the system;
- there is an optical signaling of the equipment functioning;
- the range of the radio receiver is up to 200 m. This range is applicable to open space, when there are no obstacles. These are ideal working conditions.
Note! The operating range can be increased by installing the RTN-01 retransmitter.
Depending on the materials from which the house is made, the degree of reduction of the Zamel's radius of work will depend.
If desired, you can use the remote control for the remote control.
NooLite kit
NooLite kit
Another popular system for wireless light control is the NooLite kit. The NooLite complex is a radio-controlled equipment for adjusting the lighting level and serves as one of the first steps towards creating a "smart home".
The NooLite kit has:
- switch. There is a switch that is placed on the wall;
- several power blocks. They are used to connect to lighting fixtures.
In addition, the kit contains instructions and a diagram necessary for the correct installation of individual components of the device. Putting it all right, NooLite will allow you to control the light of a specific light source or lighting throughout your home.
It is worth noting that the NooLite system is expandable and has excellent customization options. Here you can adjust the brightness for each individual channel. You can also connect a remote control to the NooLite to control the light. The complex itself is positioned as an alternative to a conventional switch.
We carry out the installation
After you have decided on the type of wireless equipment, the most interesting moment comes - do-it-yourself installation.
Since this is a wireless system, direct contact with the mains is not expected, as is the case when laying cables when installing wired equipment. Here it will be necessary to connect the elements of the complex and lighting devices, the work of which needs to be automated. In such a situation, you still cannot do without laying standard wiring. To do this, you need a diagram according to which the entire installation will be carried out.
Wireless System Installation Diagram
Dimmer setting
When carrying out preparatory work before installation, it is necessary to carry out stationary wiring. But modern kits no longer need it. The installation process involves the following manipulations:
- choice of installation site;
- determination of a group of lighting devices that will be connected to the general control system using a switch or remote control;
- then we carry out the installation of switches, which will serve as a replacement for the usual ones. As a rule, dimmer switches are mounted in place of the old ones. We fasten it with adhesive tape over the location of the old switches or instead of it;
Power block connection
- after that, we connect the lamps to the automated complex according to the scheme;
- then we program the transmitters and switches for specific commands to respond to signals sent by each other.
Note! While the switches can be replaced, the transmitter is more complicated. Some of their models can fit in standard boxes, while others require more space.
After installation, check the correctness of the connection and the adequacy of the response of the system to the commands sent.
Conclusion
As you can see, modern technologies in the house can significantly simplify the functioning of lighting devices, significantly increasing the comfort and convenience of any room.
Wireless lighting is a set of equipment used to control and control the level of light in rooms using a remote control. Such systems were originally used in rather expensive “smart houses”, but today they can be installed even in an ordinary apartment.
Wireless light control:
- easy to install and configure by yourself;
- reliable and durable;
- can be used in premises of any type (residential, office, industrial, retail and others).
Such a system is economical - there is no need to purchase wires and all related materials for their installation, to pay for their installation, to replace the cable in case of damage. Also, the cost of electricity bills will be reduced if motion sensors are installed at the same time.
Types of control systems
Wireless lighting systems can operate by receiving three types of signals:
- radio waves;
- infrared;
- impulse.
Wireless light control Infrared
Wireless lighting, which uses infrared signals, is most often used for outdoor lighting and public spaces. The principle of operation of devices of this type is similar to that used in remote controls for a TV.
The disadvantages of systems of this type include the ability to control only those lamps that are in the visibility zone and no further than 10 m - it is impossible to control all lighting devices in a house or apartment using a remote control that transmits IR signals.
You can amplify the signal by installing a special device that converts the infrared signal into a radio wave, and allows you to transmit commands over longer distances.
Impulse
The use of an impulse relay implies its installation in a switchboard or switch. Such systems are suitable for industrial or office buildings.
The most effective is radio-controlled lighting, which is worth considering in more detail.
How radio-controlled lighting works
Each set of wireless lighting is equipped with a radio transmitter that transmits signals to the lamps from the command device via a radio channel. The range of the signal depends on the specific model of the system - a maximum of 300 m, and when installing the antenna up to 3 km. It should be borne in mind that obstacles can reduce the range of the signal, depending on the type of material of which the walls and partitions are composed.
Having received the signal, the radio transmitter sends it directly to the luminaire.
Diagram of the principle of operation of radio-controlled lighting To combine all installed radio transmitters into a single system, a control station is required, which helps to control the operation of the luminaires and, if necessary, create light scenarios.
The control station is connected to a computer, on which the initial settings are set and recorded, after which the system is able to work completely autonomously.
Types of command devices
In addition to the remote control, you can control and give commands to lighting devices using a common controller - it is installed in any chosen place.
The general controller is convenient in that you can turn on and off the light in the entire apartment or a specific room from one point, barely entering the house or preparing to leave it (as a rule, the controller is mounted in the hallway, at the front door). It is a panel with a sensor or keys, fixed on a wall or other surface.
Remote control
The remote control can be single or individual for each room. The device has several channels (2 - standard, advanced models may have 8).
Wireless switch with remote control The command device looks like a TV remote control. Usually there are about 5 buttons on it, each of which can control one or a dozen lighting fixtures.
Smartphone and computer
With these devices, you can control the operation of the lamp even when you are out of the coverage area of the remote control. To work, you will need to install a special application on a smartphone or send SMS from it; on a computer, commands are entered after installing the appropriate software.
Lighting control using a smartphone Wireless Kits
An overview of the two most popular wireless light control kits.
NooLite
Radio-controlled equipment NooLite can be used to create a smart home system.
Consists of:
- power blocks for connecting to luminaires;
- wall-mounted switch.
You can install the equipment yourself, referring to the diagram and instructions supplied with the equipment.
The feature and advantage of the NooLite kit is the ability to expand the kit. Also, the equipment allows you to select the desired degree of brightness for each channel.
Radio-controlled equipment NooLite Zamel
The set of equipment for creating a Zamel wireless lighting system includes:
- built-in radio receiver for 2 channels;
- 4-channel radio transmitter of push-button type.
The radio receiver is capable of performing several functions: turning the light on and off, working in constant, temporary and bistable modes.
Functional features of the kit:
- the ability to control lamps, as well as other receivers;
- large radius of action (up to 200 m);
- the presence of 2 output relays;
- optical signaling.
With additional installation of the RTN-01 retransmitter, the range of the transmitter can be increased.
Zamel Wireless Lighting Control Kit Self-assembly of wireless lighting
Before installing a wireless lighting system, you need to draw up a project in which you should decide on:
- the exact number of lighting fixtures on which you need to install the power units;
- type of executive module (choose based on the type of lamp);
- type of command device (remote control, common controller), their location;
- the procedure for interaction of radio transmitters with power modules.
Determination of the degree of attenuation of the radio signal
The signal level can be significantly reduced due to the material of the walls of the room. It is necessary to calculate the losses in advance and choose a system that will have enough range.
Plasterboard and wooden structures reduce the signal level by 10%, brick and chipboard - by 30, reinforced concrete by almost 70, and metal - up to 90%.
Planning
If the devices are placed in different rooms, then their position should be such that the distance between them is minimal. In addition, to prevent malfunctions of wireless light switches, it is recommended to install them at a distance from each other (at least 1 m) and not near household appliances.
Taking these recommendations into account, draw up a layout diagram of the equipment, indicating the command connections between the power units and the command devices. The prepared plan will also come in handy during the initial setup of the system.
Connecting the transmitter
Radio transmitters are installed in a deep socket behind the switch. Attach to contacts. When an alternating current is supplied to the control inputs, the device sends a signal to the lamps via a radio channel.
To maximize the range of the transmitter, the antenna wire is installed straight and brought to the surface.
Connecting an executive device
The power unit is mounted either near the lamp power wires, or next to the lighting fixture. The method of connecting the unit depends on the type of the selected system and is carried out strictly according to the instructions.
Modern wireless lighting systems
In addition to those discussed above, there are more modern and easy-to-control wireless lighting systems.
Smart bulbs
A unique feature of this type of device is control via a smartphone. To turn on, turn off and select the desired degree of brightness, you do not need to install power blocks and a remote control, all you need to do is install a special application on your phone.
Such bulbs are offered by many manufacturers, the most famous are:
- Philips Hue;
- LightFreq;
- Beon;
- LightFreq;
- Vocca.
The light bulb is screwed into the socket, activates the search for a Wi-fi network. The application installed on the smartphone searches for the lamp connected to the network.
Remote control chandeliers
The chandelier, equipped with a remote control, is ready to work stasis after installation.
The principle of its operation is based on the transmission of the signal supplied by the remote control over the radio channel to the radio switch. The latter is responsible for turning the lamp on and off, and is able to adjust the degree of its brightness.
Wireless lighting makes it much easier to control lighting fixtures in your home, enhances the security of your entire system and helps reduce energy consumption. It is quite simple to organize such a system in your apartment, the main thing is to choose the most suitable set of equipment and follow the instructions when working.
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