The technological process does not stand still, and modern phone manufacturers are releasing more and more sophisticated models with many new features. Active improvement of software and hardware functionality leads to the fact that the battery life of the device is reduced. Large RAM, powerful processes, multi-inch touch screens and strong cameras all contribute to the fact that the batteries run out quickly enough. That is why it is important to have a reliable memory. Great if the original charger is preserved, but what if it is lost or broken? Then buying a new one raises the question of not only the safety of the phone, but also your own comfort.
Everyone faced with the discharge of a smartphone at the most inopportune moment. This is especially scary when there is a catastrophic lack of time to recharge. At such moments, the first charger that comes to hand is grabbed, connected and the countdown begins. Sometimes the process is fast, and often treacherously long. The result is sad - after a while there is no connection again. Today we will figure out how memory differs and how to make the right choice.
Charger type
Before buying, many are wondering which memory is better to choose: original, analog or universal? Many people buy the original, which means they don’t worry about the compatibility of the device with gadgets, the speed and features of charging, as well as various risks (cheap chargers that are sold in tents in the markets may well lead to a strong battery heating). But it is not always possible to buy an original device, then a high-quality analogue will be the best option. It indicates a list of compatible device models, as well as technical specifications that are identical to those of the original.
Power connector
Memory devices can have different connectors:
USB. Such devices are universal and suitable for most modern gadgets that support the USB standard.
USB x2 . This is the best option when there are problems accessing a power outlet. Using this charger, you can simultaneously charge your tablet and smartphone. The only negative is the low speed of the battery charge.
Micro USB and Mini USB. They are suitable for most smartphones, including Windows Phone, Android, and Android tablets. Micro USB has been introduced in the EU as a single standard since 2011.
Lightning 8-pin MFI . It is suitable for recharging fifth generation devices from Apple: iPod Touch and iPhone 5.
Lightning 8-pin . It is compatible with most Apple iPad, iPhone and iPod models.
DC jack 3.5mm It is suitable for charging Nokia 1100, 3300, 5100, 6310, 6670, 6822, 7200, 7210, 7250, 7710, 8800, 9210, 9300, 9500, E60 and E70 mobile devices.
USB/Lightning . These chargers are suitable for Apple iPhone 5 and 6.
fastport. It is compatible with Sony Ericsson K750 and W800 phones.
18-pin This connector is designed to charge LG phones.
jack 3.5 mm , DC jack 2.5 mm and DC jack 2.0 mm . It is suitable for charging various mobile equipment: phones, headsets, tablets, players. Using adapters, you can also connect Apple equipment.
M20pin. This connector is suitable for recharging Samsung C170, D800, E250, E900 and U600.
30pin. It is suitable for powering Samsung branded appliances.
Output current
A charger with a maximum output current is suitable for servicing any gadgets. At the same time, the current consumption rarely exceeds 2100 mA. Such chargers are the most versatile solution. In order not to miscalculate with the purchase, pay attention to the parameters of the original memory to the device. To do this, just look at its body and the numbers next to "exit" or "output". If there is no original memory, then perhaps this data is mentioned in the instructions from the tablet or smartphone.
The maximum charge current is determined by the controller of the device being charged, so do not be afraid to connect a charger with more current than the gadget requires. He will simply take as much as needed - nothing will burn or break.
But on the contrary, if the charger produces less amperes than the gadget being charged requires, then charging will be much slower.
If you do not know, and there is no way to find out what current your gadget consumes, then when choosing universal chargers, buy a charger with the highest possible output current.
There is a little trick - in order to speed up the charging of the smartphone, it is recommended to put it into “airplane mode” / “flight mode” / offline mode. At the same time, all unnecessary modules and applications are disabled, and the phone will charge approximately 15% faster.
Number of standard USB connectors
A number of memory devices have either 2 standard USB connectors. Devices of the second type are quite convenient - you can connect several gadgets to one outlet for charging at once. Such devices are great for travel and travel. This will reduce the number of things in the luggage, and also you will not have to look for several sockets in the hotel.
Cable included
Depending on the memory model, the cable can be:
removable;
fixed;
absent.
The weakest link in the charger is the cable. If it is non-removable, then if it breaks, it is almost impossible to restore the device to working capacity. If it is removable, then the adapter itself, which is connected to the network, can be used further, simply by purchasing a wire.
When choosing a charger, it is better to give preference to trusted brands. For questionable devices, the cable can reduce charging efficiency by up to 75%. And this is not only a waste of electricity, but also of your time. In addition, such cables can break, come off the connector, which ultimately remains in the device. This leads to a short circuit and failure of the device.
fast charging
Some models of memory have fast charging. She may be:
Quick Charge 2.0
Quick Charge 3.0
Pump Express+ 2.0.
According to the developers of Quick Charge technology, battery charging can be accelerated up to 75%. In the first few minutes, smartphones that are compatible with Quick Charge are charged for several hours of operation. This is really convenient in the modern rhythm of life - you ran into a cafe, plugged your gadget into a power outlet, drank a cup of coffee and left with a phone with a decent battery charge.
The key difference between Quick Charge 3.0 and 2.0 technology is the presence of the INOV function or smart determination of the optimal voltage. Depending on the progress of the battery charge, the required current is gradually reduced. This minimizes wasted energy during recharging.
Using a special adapter with the Pump Express + 2.0 function, you can reach a full charge of the smartphone battery 1.5 times faster than with a regular charger.
price issue
Today, chargers are presented in a wide price range. So spending:
from 65 to 300 rubles you can buy branded memory for devices of various brands (Sony Ericsson, Samsung, LG, Apple or Nokia). They can be without wire, as well as with removable or non-removable wire.
from 300 to 1000 rubles, you can purchase universal memory in a rugged case with two USB connectors. They will become an indispensable companion in travel and in everyday life.
more than 1000 rubles you will receive reliable and practical chargers from leading brands. A number of models have the Quick Charge 2.0 or Quick Charge 3.0 fast charge function, in which the charge power is increased by voltage, not current. Which is absolutely safe for the gadget, because. it does not overheat.
Many radio amateurs are trying to convert old computer power supplies assembled on TL494 and KA7500 chips into car battery chargers. Unfortunately, old stocks of power supplies are coming to an end. Every day it becomes more and more difficult, and sometimes it is completely impossible to find a computer power supply suitable for rework. But there are a huge number of universal switching power supplies designed to power LED strips, video cameras and other low-voltage devices on the shelves of electrical goods stores growing like mushrooms.
And then a good idea came to my mind, to convert a switching power supply into a charger. As a test subject, I chose a Chinese, with an output voltage of 12V 10A with a power of 120 watts, a power supply marked "S-120-12", which I purchased for $ 13 in a well-known online store of Chinese goods, I will not advertise it, and so, already everybody knows.
All pulse blocks of this format are designed for power supply from a 110/220V network, they are equipped with protection against short circuit and overcurrent from the factory, all power supplies have a small trimmer on the front panel that allows you to adjust the voltage in the range 12 ± 1V.
Of course, this voltage is not enough to fully charge the battery. Therefore, it is necessary to expand the voltage regulation range over a wider range, for example, from 9 to 20V. How to do it now I will tell you ...
And, so for conversion into a charger, any 12V 10A switching power supply with a trimming resistor installed from the factory on the board is suitable.
The alteration consists in replacing the two resistors indicated in the picture P1 and R1. The trimming resistor P1 with a resistance of 1K must be replaced with a variable resistor 5K. Next, you need to find and replace the constant resistor R1 with a resistance of 5K with a resistor with a resistance of 2.7K or put a trimming resistor at 5K. This will change the voltage regulation range from 9 to 20V. If, when the handle of the variable resistor P1 is unscrewed to the extreme position, the voltage will be more or less than 20V, then it is necessary to select the resistance of the constant resistor R1. The minimum allowable voltage is 7V, the maximum voltage that can be squeezed out of the power supply is 23V, then the unit goes into protection.
After editing it should look like this.
Do not rush to squeeze the maximum speed out of the PSU ... Since the voltage at the output of the power supply can be adjusted from 9 to 20V, in order to avoid a big explosion, it is necessary to replace the output capacitors 1000 microfarads 16V with more powerful 1000 microfarads 25V. There were five of them in my block. The new capacitors turned out to be the same size and therefore fit perfectly into place. To control the process of charging the battery, I installed a Chinese universal voltmeter ammeter, purchased for $ 3 in the well-known Chinese online store, I will not advertise it. I decided to lay the wires by carefully soldering them to the board from below and brought them to the top through the technological holes under the pulse transformer. It turned out quite compact and nothing sticks out.
This picture shows a diagram of connecting a Chinese ammeter voltmeter to the output of the power supply. Perhaps someone will find it useful.
The assembled device will look something like this. On the top cover of the power supply, just above the pulse transformer, I glued a Chinese voltmeter ammeter with a thermal gun. On the front wall, I installed two Banana connectors, it is easy to connect wires to them. On the right wall there is a power switch and a variable resistor P1.
How to charge the battery?
We turn on the charger in the network and press the switch located on the side wall of the device. As soon as the Chinese voltmeter-ammeter starts working, turn the plastic handle of the variable resistor to the left until it stops on the device will be 9V. Next, we connect the battery to the output of the charger and smoothly raise the voltage for a fully discharged battery no more than 13.5V, and for a half-discharged battery no more than 14.5V. Carefully watch the ammeter readings, the initial charge current should be no more than 10% of the battery capacity. That is, for a battery with a capacity of 60A / h, the initial charge current will be no more than 6A. Further, as the battery is charged, the resistance of the battery will gradually decrease and the current will drop, as soon as this happens, bring the voltage to 14.5V. Gradually, at the end of the battery charging process, the current strength will decrease to 0.1A, and the density of the electrolyte in each bank will rise to 1.27 g / cm³. It is forbidden to charge the battery with a voltage of more than 14.5V because the voltage in the car's on-board network is in the range of 13.5 - 14.5 volts.
In general, the process of charging the battery, like the good old Soviet transformer charging, the current strength increases due to the increase in voltage. Friends, do not bother with current protection, in this charger, and so, everything works fine.
How does short circuit protection work?
If you accidentally or deliberately short-circuit the output of the power supply, nothing bad will happen, the short circuit protection will instantly work, the power supply will turn off and will remain in this state until the cause of the short circuit is eliminated. After the short circuit is eliminated, the unit will return to the working state. There is also protection against overcurrent, the response threshold is not more than 10A. It is practically impossible to burn this device; when a load of more than 10A is connected, the unit will go into protection again. To clearly show you the power of the device, I connected a 55-watt halogen lamp to the power supply and set the voltage to 14.5V. The ammeter showed 6A and this is not the limit ...
The cost of all components for the manufacture of the charger.
- Power supply $ 13 or 800 rubles.
- Chinese voltmeter ammeter $ 3 or 180 rubles.
- Capacitors 1000 microfarads 25V for 15 rubles. in the amount of 5 pcs. 75 rub.
- Crocodiles 2 pcs. 60 rub.
- Variable resistor 50 rubles.
- Banana connectors 2 pcs. 30 rub. could not put
- Connecting wires torn out of a computer PSU for free
- A set of straight arms for assembly (I used my own) is also free
Total: 1195 rubles.
And, so for only 1195 wooden rubles it is possible to assemble a compact and quite powerful budget charger. Supply voltage 110/220V, output voltage from 9 to 20 volts, current strength 10A and power 120 watts. Yes, another big plus, built-in short circuit protection and current protection up to 10A.
What charger can you buy in a store for 1195 rubles?
To be honest, I doubt that for this money you can buy something that works adequately, at least somehow charging the battery. I had a case, 10 years ago I bought a Striver PW 265 charger in a car shop for 1500 rubles with current protection, overheating, short circuit protection, 200 watts 6A. Okay, I bought it. I decided to charge the battery, put on the stamps, plugged it into the outlet, everything seems to be according to the instructions. I charge a day, I charge two ... On the third day I could not stand it, I measured the output voltage exactly 12V. Lord manufacturers, why is it not charging? Took it to the store and they changed it. Right in the store on a new charger, I measured the voltage again 12V. In short, the seller had seven chargers and they were all the same, they didn’t give out more than 12V. Money back. And this is not the first time. The other day a friend brought a brand new charger that does not charge.
Friends, the choice is yours to buy a ready-made charger in the store or do it yourself from a switching power supply. I just wrote about a simple way to convert a switching power supply into a worthy of your attention, budget car battery charger. In the course of numerous tests and trials carried out personally by me for three months, the charger never let me down. If you have questions, feel free to ask them in the comments.
Friends, I wish you good luck and good mood! See you in new articles!
At first glance, the power supply is no different from the charger. Especially if the first one has a rectifier circuit that allows you to convert AC voltage to DC.
That is why, without going into details, some people try to use power supplies to charge batteries and chargers to constantly power devices. Any equipment must be used for its intended purpose, and then the result of its work will correspond to the characteristics declared by the manufacturer.
What fundamentally distinguishes the charger from the power supply.
- In order for a device to be called a power supply, it is enough for it to have a simple transformer that has one primary and one secondary winding. Everything is already a power supply. Such a transformer will give out on the secondary winding the voltage that is necessary to power the device. It will also be variable, but the voltage will be lower. Most electronic devices are powered by constant voltage. To do this, the step-down transformer is equipped with a rectification circuit (often just a diode bridge) And in principle this is enough for the Power Supply.
- The charger is somewhat more complicated. Its circuit diagram is more complex and its function is mainly to generate a pulsed voltage with which the batteries are charged. Since it is pulsed, and not direct current, that is optimal for charging. The power supply is a ripple-stabilized voltage.
- By its principle, the power supply does not accept short circuits. For a charger, a short circuit is, one might say, its "work"
- The main data "removed" from these devices is, for the power supply it is a constant voltage that does not change with increasing load, and for the charger, the voltage can float, however, the charging current must strictly correspond to the capacity of the device being charged, otherwise batteries can be damaged. Typically, the charging current should be equal to 1/10 of the battery capacity.
Given this, we understand that not every power supply will "take care" of the current needed for the battery, which can lead to damage to the latter. And this means for charging, it is better not to use power supplies.
To summarize in Russian, the power supply is a voltage source, and the charger is more of a current source.
Before experimenting with replacing the charger with a power supply and vice versa, you need to know all the characteristics of these devices. Then make a decision about the possibility of interchange.
Nowadays, we are increasingly using devices powered by various batteries. Sealed helium batteries (6 and 12V) are often used in uninterruptible power supplies, portable portable receivers with fluorescent lamps. If such batteries are used separately in other devices, they need to be charged.
Faced with the problem of charging such elements, I looked through the search on the Internet, found a simple circuit, with a slight adjustment of which an adjustable power supply was also introduced.
The circuit is duplicated on many sites, the original source cannot be found, but the printed circuit board cannot be found on any site. After spending a little time, I drew a printed circuit board, in the form of a modular block, in the Sprint-Layout 5.0 (6.0) program.
The proposed combined charger has the following characteristics:
- charging batteries with a voltage of 6V;
- charging batteries with a voltage of 12V;
- setting the charging current, five fixed ratings: 0.15; 0.35; 0.45; 0.75; 1.5A;
- adjustable power supply, voltage from 1.2 to 28V, with a maximum load current of 1.5A.
The circuit is simple, but during installation it is easy to get confused in the wiring of variable resistors and toggle switches. Taking into account this moment, the wiring diagram was also drawn.
On the wiring diagram, the variable resistors and toggle switches are facing you.
As a case, a case was used from a computer power supply unit of the AT form factor (truncated), with a slight alteration, namely, cutting out a part of the case and installing a glass-textolite insert instead.
The socket is equipped with: variable resistors R7 - R9, SA2, SA4 toggle switches, a five-position current mode switch, output connectors.
Additionally, the circuit includes a cooling cooler with a diode bridge connected to one of the transformer legs.
Unfortunately, there is no photo of the assembled module, because it is already mounted inside the case. Here is a screenshot of the PCB drawing:
Details.
The TP-160-2 power transformer used in my version can be replaced with any one with similar parameters, two secondary windings of 12V each and a load capacity of at least 1.5A.
The printed circuit board is made of 1.5 mm thick foil fiberglass. Variable resistors of linear characteristics. Analog chip kr142en22 - LT1083. The remaining elements and their characteristics are shown in the diagram.
Photo of the finished device.
A little about operation.
As a result of the first launch, expectations were justified, everything worked. When using a 6V battery in charge mode, it is necessary to set the charge voltage to 7.34V (adjustment from 1.2 to about 8V), 12V battery set the charge voltage to 14.7V (adjustment from 1.2V to about 18V). The charging current is set depending on the capacity of the battery, normally no more than 10% of it.
The circuit diagram and wiring diagram attached to the article are made in the SPlan 7.0 program, there are two tabs in the file.
Files:
This section presents power supplies (network adapters) and chargers, divided into the following subgroups:
- Great efficiency
- Slight heating
- Light weight and dimensions
- As a rule, a larger permissible range of mains voltage
- As a rule, they have built-in protection against overload and short circuits at the output.
- Switching power supplies are more circuitry than transformer ones. Self-repair by their user is hardly possible;
- The power supplies of do-it-yourselfers and small cooperatives of the 90s of the last century were distinguished by low reliability. Now this is not the case - in our experience, the percentage of failures (for various reasons, including overloads and mains voltage drops) for switching power supplies does not exceed this indicator for transformer ones.
- CHARGING DEVICE
- by chargers we mean devices designed exclusively for charging batteries of various types. In this case, the batteries can be located both inside the charger and outside during the charging process. However, for example, network adapters for radiotelephones, laptops will be referred to as POWER SUPPLY since. firstly, the batteries are not connected directly to the charging device, but through the base of the radiotelephone or laptop, and secondly, in addition to charging the batteries, such a power supply usually also provides operation from the mains of this household appliance.
Thus, we will refer to CHARGERS, for example, a battery charger for a camera, if the batteries are removed from it and inserted into the charger. And the network adapter connected to the camera (and at the same time also providing battery charge, but already inside it) will be referred to as POWER SUPPLIES.
UNSTABILIZED power supplies are the most common transformer power supplies. Provide DC output voltage. Such a power supply contains a mains transformer and a rectifier. In unstabilized power supplies, the output voltage corresponds to the rated voltage only at the rated mains voltage (220V) and the rated load current.
These units are suitable for powering lighting and heating devices, electric motors and any device with a built-in voltage regulator (for example, most cordless telephones and answering machines).
Such power supplies usually have a significant level of mains voltage ripple and are not suitable for powering audio equipment (radios, players, music synthesizers). For these devices, stabilized power supplies should be used.
STABILIZED Power supplies. Provide STABILIZED DC output voltage. Such a power supply contains a network transformer, a rectifier and a stabilizer. STABILIZED - means that the output voltage does not depend (or almost does not depend) on changes in the mains voltage (within reasonable limits) and on changes in the load current. Unlike unstabilized power supplies, stabilized output voltage will be the same both at idle and at rated load. In addition, in such power supplies, as a rule, the ripple of the AC voltage at the output is quite small.
A stabilized power supply can almost always replace an unstabilized one (but of course not vice versa). Therefore, if you do not know which DC power supply is needed for your household equipment - stabilized or unstabilized, then use a STABILIZED or SWITCHED power supply.
IMPULSE The power supplies also provide a REGULATED DC voltage output. At the same time, PULSE power supplies have the following advantages compared to transformer ones:
SWITCH power supplies are becoming more and more common. Now the cost of manufacturing even a complex electronic filling is lower than for a massive network transformer made of copper and iron. The cost of switching power supplies, even of low power (about 5W) for such household appliances as, for example, cordless telephones and answering machines, is very close to the cost of transformer ones. You should also take into account the savings in transportation costs during delivery - switching power supplies are lighter than transformer ones.
Some people have a prejudice against the use of switching power supplies. With what it can be connected?
Modern PULSE power supplies are quite reliable. For example, for all power supplies Robiton® 1 year warranty is given.
VARIABLES- AC output power supplies. They are used to power lighting and heating electrical appliances, as well as for those household appliances that contain an internal voltage rectifier (for example, many Siemens, Toshiba radiotelephones, a number of answering machines). The AC voltage symbol is indicated on the instrument case in the form of symbols: ~ or AC.
ADAPTERS 220V-110V AC(autotransformer) - although these products are similar in output characteristics to power supplies with a VARIABLE output voltage, they are made according to an autotransformer circuit. This makes it possible to reduce the dimensions and weight of the device, and to ensure the relative stability of the output voltage of 110V at idle. In this case, the galvanic isolation of the output circuit from the input circuit is not provided. These adapters are used to power equipment from the USA and some other countries.
Attention!
When choosing a power supply for your household equipment (to replace a broken or lost one), follow a few simple rules:
Find out whether direct (DC) or alternating (AC) voltage is needed for your device. Pay attention to the inscriptions on the body of the device and the output voltage of the power supply (OUTPUT).
Find out the amount of voltage required, and also, stabilized or unregulated power is required for your device.
Find out the current consumed by the device. Choose a power supply with current at least than your device consumes.
When connecting power supplies with constant output voltage (DC) and chargers, always observe the polarity! Connecting in the wrong polarity can lead to failure of both your household appliance and the power supply itself! Carefully study the polarity markings on the household appliance and power supply or in their technical documentation. If there is no information on the power supply, use a tester to determine the polarity.
Information signs indicating the polarity of the supply on round connectors:
Note! In many cases, a slight difference (a few tenths of a volt) in the supply voltage does not adversely affect the operation of household appliances. To a greater extent, this applies to unstabilized power supplies and units with variable output voltage. If you cannot find a power supply with "exotic" parameters, then try using a power supply with a slightly lower voltage.
If you find it difficult to choose a power supply for your household appliance yourself, then bring it and (or) an old faulty power supply to our store - sales consultants will be happy to help you, as well as conduct an on-site inspection.
©Sergey Kitsya (KSV®) 2008
