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How to choose a system unit, and is it worth doing? What you need to know when choosing a case for a system unit.

Personal computers in their traditional sense have long been predicted to be obsolete and soon to retire. Laptops, tablets with smartphones, and game consoles have pretended to be the "new shift" in different years. But, as practice has shown, all these devices certainly find their consumer - and at times even noticeably affect the PC market. But they cannot force users to completely abandon the "traditional" platform.

Why? Reason # 1 is definitely the versatility of the PC. The mobility of tablets and smartphones, the gaming capabilities and services of consoles are certainly excellent qualities. But how will they help you if you urgently need to complete a project for work or rewrite a paragraph in a term paper?

Reason # 2 is the outstanding customization capabilities of the PC. Laptops, tablets and other similar devices are in most cases a "thing in itself". You can change some minor details, but in general you will have to put up with the price of the device and the functionality that it offers for this money.

The PC, in turn, can be assembled from any compatible components. If you want to save money, please, there is a budget hardware available to almost anyone. You need a balanced system for a certain budget - and there is plenty to choose from. Need some special functionality? And it can be solved!

In fact, PCs are so affordable today that you don't even need to understand the hardware to acquire them (although this leads to very disastrous consequences for the computer, and for its owner, and for the community as a whole) - in any self-respecting stores, in addition to ready-to-use system units are also sold for separate components.
We will talk about them today.

What you need to know when choosing

Do you need a ready-made system unit?

The key advantage of ready-made system units is, in fact, their readiness. You do not need to compare models of components, search for them in stock or order with delivery to one store. This saves you time and effort, but otherwise ready-made systems are always a compromise.

Almost certainly, for the same budget, a self-assembled PC will turn out to be faster and more functional, not to mention such parameters as acoustic comfort, the possibility (and cost!) Of further upgrades and, finally, the appearance of the case.

Recommendation # 1: Before running to the store for a ready-made system unit, go to the one dedicated to the selection of components and PC configuration. It's completely free and doesn't require any special effort. But as a result, you will know what can be bought for the same money, and how much faster and better it will be.

Remember that the service of assembling a PC from components is available in almost every store in the CSN network. This service is paid, but its cost is far from cosmic, and you do not need to deal with the assembly yourself or look for a "knowledgeable" acquaintance. That, you see, is also convenient and also saves time.

However, if you still prefer a ready-made assembly ...

System unit type and size

Yes, in this case, you should start not with the choice of specific components, but with the designation of the goals and objectives of your future computer.

In addition to the system blocks in their most traditional form, the CSN offers the following PC formats:

With the choice of the processor manufacturer, everything is quite simple: here either Intel or AMD... Only thin clients and other embedded systems stand apart, where products can be found VIA, Allwinner and other companies whose names are not so well known.

But with the choice of a specific model or at least a line, everything is a little more complicated: there is a huge bunch of offers, it is not always clear how one processor model differs from another, and even more openers are filling.

The advice here is the same as in the case as a standalone product. All you should be interested in is the performance of the processor that falls within your budget. It doesn't matter who wins there in price segments higher or lower - you have to get along with a specific CPU model!

Here, unfortunately, there is only one advice: read authoritative resources (preferably foreign!), Study comparative tests, analyze the information received and make an informed choice. Believe the cries of fanatics from one side or the other - in the end, buy something that does not correspond to the money spent at all.

A definite marker (but far from accurate!) Of processor performance can be the number of cores:

However, the opposite is also true. If you are sure that you will use only and exclusively content located in the global or local network, or on your home file storage, you can view system blocks with less space. and a gigabyte for the eyes is enough for the operating system and the necessary set of software ... although, however, in this case it is better to use an SSD.

If you are not so radical, there are options with hard drives in, or 3 terabytes.

Recommendation # 6: Hard disk space is never enough. Even if it seems to you that the current volume is enough, very soon you will be surprised that the "huge" space is already completely crammed with vacation photos, your favorite music and films, and you have significantly more games installed than you planned (and you cannot delete the old hand rises).

Here the "more is better" rule works to the fullest, without reservations. However, this does not mean that you only need to buy system units with the maximum amount of hard drives! Like RAM, the disk is easy to install yourself, so no one forbids you to increase the amount of file storage later.

Volume of solid state drive

A solid-state drive (SSD) is an optional, but very useful device that can significantly speed up the loading and operation of the operating system and other programs installed on it. In fact, today the likelihood of encountering a custom PC in which the system is installed on a good old mechanical disk tends to be minimal. And not only in the top segment - both budget assemblies and very old systems are equipped with solid-state drives, with the exception of those that do not support the SATA interface of at least the second revision.

Actually, no one will forbid you to add an SSD to a finished assembly, in which it was not originally present. However, the range of DNS also includes options for system units with pre-installed SSDs.

They differ, like hard drives, primarily in terms of volume. However, this has its own specifics. So, SSD volume from 8 to 64 gigabytes is nothing more than a fast swap file. The fact is that such a volume will be immediately filled by an OS of the Windows family after it is installed and the latest updates are downloaded. If you are going to use any lightweight Linux distribution, you may be able to do this, but even then you should not experiment.

A reasonable minimum for today is an SSD with a capacity of 120-128 GB... This is enough for both the operating system and the set of programs necessary for the operation. SSD with 240 and more gigabytes will be required if, in addition to the OS, some specialized software that works faster on a solid-state disk will be installed on them.

Recommendation # 7: SSD is not an essential thing, the system block can be purchased and without him by installing it yourself. But operating a PC with a solid-state drive is much more comfortable, and in every sense: the system works faster, programs start almost instantly, and the user's ears are not strained by the noise from the disk mechanics (due to the lack of such mechanics). If you have the opportunity to purchase a ready-made system unit with an SSD, choose this option.

Optical disc drive and accessories

Relatively recently, it was difficult to even think about purchasing a PC without a CD / DVD drive: the only way to purchase software and games was, in fact, to buy them on a physical medium, and recordable / rewritable discs were the most common means of transferring information from user to user, and indeed storage of this information - too.

But progress spares no one. The sale of discs was killed by digital distribution services, it turned out to be more convenient to transfer information using high-speed flash drives of a large volume, and the increase in the volume of hard drives put an end to home collections of CDs and DVDs with neat (or not so) inscriptions with a special marker. The latest nail in the coffin of the old ways of sharing information has been driven by the proliferation of broadband Internet access.

Do you need a DVD drive today? Honestly - decide for yourself. For a large proportion of users - absolutely not needed, fortunately, even the Windows distribution kit can be absolutely legally downloaded from the official website and a bootable flash drive can be created using a proprietary utility that does not require user participation.

On the other hand, if in your region the rates of Internet providers contain a bunch of asterisks after the description of the conditions, or you have a disc edition of a game that today cannot be bought officially or "bought when it gets dark" - disc drive will not be superfluous.

14. 02.2017

Dmitry Vassiyarov's blog.

The case of the system unit - protection for your hardware

Hello dear readers.

Today we will talk with you about the case of the system unit, consider their types, as well as their purpose.

So, what is the case of the system unit. As we understand it, a system unit is a kind of box in which all the elements of a computer are installed: motherboard, video card, hard drive, and so on. If you remove all these elements from the system unit, only the box or case will remain.


The body is designed to protect the "filling" from mechanical damage and other unnecessary influences. Depending on what equipment you have chosen for your computer, you need to select a specific type of case for the system unit.

They differ, primarily in the form factor. Roughly speaking, the form factor is the size of the motherboard. This means that only certain hardware can be inserted into a specific enclosure. In addition, the cooling system of the system unit differs, since powerful "pieces of iron" are more susceptible to overheating due to their high performance, and they need to choose the right case for the system unit.

Types of cases of the system unit

Initially, there are three types of system block cases: vertical, horizontal and for the server (rackmount).

Horizontal enclosures, or as they are also called Desktop (from the English "desktop"), are similar in shape to a DVD-player. They put it on the desktop under the monitor (in the supine state). With the advent of lighter (LCD) monitors, interest in them has increased slightly in comparison with previous oversized monitors. In turn, horizontal hulls are divided into several subclasses (by size):

  • Full Desktop (540 x 420 x 150mm);
  • Slim Line (406 x 406 x 101mm).

"Towers"

Now let's move on to the classification of more common, vertical cases, or as they are also called Tower (from the English "tower"):


    Very compact enclosures, which is their only advantage. Disadvantages: Difficult to upgrade (because all components are too close to each other), insufficient cooling system, little space inside.

This is a very good solution if you have very little space on your desk. But when buying such a case, you should think over a high-quality cooling system in advance.

This type of enclosure is prone to rapid dust formation due to the small space inside. Dimensions 178 x 432 x 432mm.

  • Big Tower (Super-Tower).

This corpus is used by advanced users.
Installation of absolutely any motherboard is performed. Ideal ventilation system (installation of a sufficient number of coolers). Your PC will definitely not overheat or clog up under a layer of dust. These enclosures accommodate the maximum number of 5.25 "devices.
Dimensions 190 x 482 x 820mm

  • Full tower


And finally my favorite size :-).
In fact, this standard size is the same as the Big Tower, only even larger.
In this case, you can cram five or more 5.25 devices. There is a lot of space inside, due to which you can supply a full-fledged water cooling and a large number of fans.
Also, these cases are used as home servers.

The sizes are different.

The main difference between tower-type cases is the number of bays for 5.25 drives (devices). Micro has 1, mini - 2-3, midi - 3-4, big - 4, full tower - 5 or more compartments and, accordingly, dimensions.

What's in there for the servers?

  • File-Server corpus.


Used to create servers. Includes up to ten 3.5 "device bays and multiple 5.25" device bays.

Also, it is provided with compartments for installing additional ventilation and power supplies (to ensure uninterrupted operation).

Form factor

Let's now talk about form factors. The case form factor is essentially the size standard for motherboards. Different types of cases can have different shapes - factors. There are a lot of them, I will describe only the most popular here:

  1. AT is a very old form factor for motherboards, which was popular until 2000 (currently not used or used in "ancient" PCs).
  2. ATX is a standard that is present today for personal computers. ATX (305x244mm) is a form factor for a full-size motherboard in a PC (determines the size of the case, the number of connectors, the location of the mounts, and other characteristics). As for micro ATX and mini ATX, these are downsized motherboard connectors that are used for compact PCs (can be cut down to 170mm).
  3. ITX and Mini ITX - very small size (170 x 170 mm). I rarely use this size for home computers. But in principle, for Full Desktop and Slim Line cases, this is quite a good option. Like the micro and mini ATX form factors, it is characteristic of compact, inexpensive computers that are not designed to perform complex operations.



It seems that he told everything basic.

Well, I didn't cover any monsters like these:

Because I think they are hardly suitable for home use, they are mainly bought for all kinds of events, they are called poster. Maybe we will talk about them in detail in the future.

Let's sum up

What we found out: the first thing that you can build a good, productive computer is in a vertical Midi Tower case, with an ATX form factor. It will be characterized by its large size and high performance, and the design of the case will promote good ventilation.

In addition, the PC can be upgraded to a certain point. And second, if you need a computer for office work, etc. - your choice should focus on a system unit in a vertical case (Mini Tower) and a simpler motherboard (micro / mini ATX, or mini ITX).

The PC will be characterized by sufficient performance for office work and use on the Internet, small in size, but it will be a breeding ground for dust and you will have to clean it often.

And that's all for today, subscribe to my blog updates.

There are many interesting things ahead ;-).

The case is designed to accommodate all computer components: motherboard, processor, memory, video card, hard drives, optical drive, power supply and various expansion cards. It has mounts for all these devices, buttons for turning on and restarting the computer, indicators of its operation, additional connectors and a cooling system (fans and vents).

The most common are Midi-Tower chassis, suitable for ATX and smaller motherboards (Mini-ATX, Micro-ATX). They are great for most computers.

For an office computer (documents, the Internet), it is most profitable to purchase a case complete with a 400-500 W power supply. Among the quality PSU cases available on the market, I recommend AeroCool, Cooler Master, Zalman, Chieftec, Xigmatek, and ASUS (Vento). In this case, the most inexpensive type AeroCool CS-1101 with a 500 W PSU is suitable.
Computer case AeroCool CS-1101 500W Black

For an entry-class gaming computer (Core-i3 or Ryzen-3 + GTX-1050/1060), you can also take a case complete with a 500-600 W power supply of the same brands. As a minimum option, you can consider the AeroCool V3X with a 600 W PSU.
Computer case AeroCool V3X Advance Devil Red Edition 600W

For a work or gaming computer of the middle class (Core-i5 or Ryzen 5 + GTX-1070), it is better to take a separate and separate case. The best in terms of price / quality ratio are AeroCool, Zalman and Cooler Master cases. One of the most successful inexpensive Zalman Z1 models (Black and Neo).
Computer case Zalman Z1 Black

For a powerful professional or gaming computer (Core-i7 or Ryzen-7 + GTX-1080), it is advisable to take a larger case. It will accommodate a long graphics card, a powerful cooler or water cooling system and will provide better ventilation. Recommended brands are AeroCool, Zalman, NZXT, Cooler Master, Thermaltake. Again, I recommend AeroCool Aero-800 as a minimum option.
Computer case AeroCool Aero-800

2. Case without power supply

3. Case with power supply

If you are building an office or home computer, you can save money and buy a good case complete with a power supply.

3.1. Power supply power

Cases for office and home computers can be supplied with power supplies with a capacity of 300-600 watts. In small cases for media centers, the power of the power supply unit can be only 100-250 watts, which is quite enough for watching video, but clearly not enough if you want to install a powerful video card in order to play on the TV screen.

For an office computer, a 400 watt power supply is sufficient. For a home multimedia computer, the power supply should be 450-500 watts. For a powerful gaming computer, at least 600 watts is desirable.

3.2. Power supply calculation

The power supply can be calculated manually. To do this, you need to find the power consumption of all computer components on the manufacturers' websites and add them up. To this amount you need to add 15-30% for higher reliability and elimination of voltage drops during peak loads, to which video cards react very painfully.

But there is a more convenient way! The calculation of the power supply unit can be done using a special program "Power Supply Calculator". It also allows you to calculate the required capacity of an uninterruptible power supply (UPS or UPS).

The program works on all Windows versions with installed "Microsoft .NET Framework" version 3.5 or higher, which is usually already installed by most users. Download the program "Power Supply Calculator" and if you need "Microsoft .NET Framework" you can at the end of the article in the section "".

3.3. Power supply configuration and location

Pay attention to the types and number of power supply connectors. As for its location, it can be top or bottom.

The bottom position of the PSU is considered to be more progressive, but in general it does not matter. But if you buy a large case without a power supply and its location is provided in the lower part of the case, then choose a power supply with longer wires, otherwise they may be connected with a stretch.

4. Hull price

I do not recommend buying a case that costs $ 30-40. In this case, you will end up with a bad case with a very bad power supply. Cases with more or less normal power supplies start at $ 50. Power supplies in these cases are inferior to analogs sold separately, but still better than the cheapest models and are quite suitable for an office or not very powerful home computer.

5. Case manufacturers

Some manufacturers produce only cases without power supplies, some only with power supplies, and some both.

5.1. Chassis manufacturers without power supplies

If you plan to purchase a power supply separately, then a high-quality case from one of the most popular manufacturers: Chieftec, Cooler Master, Thermaltake will be a good addition to it.

Not so long ago, well-known manufacturers of components for enthusiasts entered the market of computer cases: Corsair and Zalman, which I also recommend.

If you are looking for a more economical, but still good quality case, take a look at the brands: AeroCool and Antec.

It is worth noting that there is an obvious division between brands in terms of price, when the cases of one brand were only expensive, and the other was only cheap. Therefore, when choosing a case, you can consider cases from all manufacturers listed here.

5.2. Power Supply Chassis Manufacturers

If you decide to purchase a case complete with a power supply, then a case from Cooler Master or AeroCool would be a good choice.

A more economical, but quite acceptable option would be to purchase a body of brands: Foxconn, FSP, InWin.

6. Types and sizes of enclosures

Computer cases are divided into horizontal (Desktop) and vertical (Tower). But both of them can be of different sizes.

6.1. Horizontal enclosures

Previously, horizontal enclosures were used mainly in offices to save space, and monitors were installed directly on them.

Now such cases can be found in some supermarkets, but they are mainly used to assemble multimedia centers that can be located in a TV stand.

Horizontal enclosures are of the following types:

  • Slim-Desktop - slim body
  • Full-Desktop - Standard Case

6.2. Vertical enclosures

For the assembly of modern computers, mainly vertical cases are used. Usually they are installed on a special stand or just on the floor.

Vertical enclosures are of the following types:

  • Micro-Tower - Miniature Case
  • Mini-Tower Low Legacy Enclosure
  • Midi-Tower is the most common format
  • Full-Tower - Large Gaming PC Case
  • Super-Tower - extra large chassis for powerful computers and servers

For office and home computers, it is best to use the most versatile Midi-Tower cases. For powerful gaming computers that accept large graphics cards and coolers, it is advisable to use the more spacious Midi-Tower or Full-Tower cases. They are better organized for the placement of components and ventilation.

7. Form factor of motherboard

The case, depending on the size, can accommodate motherboards of different sizes. Typically, Midi-Tower cases can accommodate ATX or smaller motherboards (MicroATX, Mini-ITX). In Mini-Tower cases, you can install a motherboard no more than MicroATX, and in cases for Mini-ITX multimedia centers. Full-tower cases can accommodate large E-ATX and XL-ATX motherboards.

All cases have mounts for supported motherboard formats. What form factors of motherboards are supported by this or that case must be indicated on the website of the seller and manufacturer of the case.

For office and home computers, I recommend purchasing a case that supports ATX motherboards, even if you are purchasing a smaller motherboard. This will provide more options for choosing a motherboard in case of replacement, as well as installing larger components and better ventilation in the case.

If you are building a gaming computer with a large powerful video card, then you must take into account its length, otherwise it may not fit into the case. You can find out what the maximum length of a video card is supported by the case on the website of the seller or manufacturer.

9. Cooling system

9.1. Fans and vents

Old cases were equipped with 80 mm fans. This solution can still be found in some cheap models. It is desirable that the rear panel of the case provide for the installation of a 120 mm fan, as it is quieter and more efficient. One fan usually comes with the case and in most cases this is sufficient, but if necessary, you can install additional ones.

Some more expensive cases may have additional fans in the front, side, top, and even bottom of the case. There may also be multiple vents. These cases are designed primarily for high-performance gaming computers and offer a reasonable placement of quiet fans. For ordinary home computers, extra holes, especially in the top case cover, can lead to excess dust and sometimes even spill something into them.

The housings can also have dust filters, which is generally good, but requires regular cleaning or replacement, otherwise they will only interfere with cooling. In principle, they can be removed at any time or replaced with homemade ones.

The front panel of the case (front or side) can have various connectors for connecting external devices. It is desirable that on the front panel of the case there are 2 USB connectors and 2 audio connectors for connecting headphones and a microphone.

How convenient the location of the connectors will be for you depends on where and how the system unit will stand.

11. External bays

Almost all chassis have 1 to 4 external 5.25 ″ optical drive bays. If you plan on installing multiple such devices, such as a Blu-ray drive and a cheaper DVD-RW drive for your day-to-day work, then take a look. Also, these compartments can be used to install control panels for various additional devices. Usually one such compartment is sufficient, but it is still desirable that there are several of them.

The chassis can have 1 or 2 external 3.5 ″ bays, which were previously used for installing a drive. Now they are not needed, but if there is such a compartment, then a card reader for reading memory cards or an additional socket with some other connectors can be installed in it. But this is usually not needed.

12. Internal compartments

Most chassis have 4-6 internal 3.5 ″ bays for conventional hard drives. Usually this is enough, but if you plan to install several disks, then keep in mind that it is advisable to install them after one, i.e. leave an empty compartment between them. Moreover, if the case is small, and the video card is long, then it may interfere with the installation of the second disk, or they will have to be placed end-to-end one on top of the other.

Some, mostly compact enclosures, may have 2.5 ″ bays that can accommodate an SSD or laptop hard drive. In standard cases, you will have to purchase a special mount for this.

The most modern and well-thought-out enclosures have one common 5.25 ″ rack with the ability to mount different disks in arbitrary places. For this, additional mounting frames are used, into which 3.5 ″ or 2.5 ″ discs are inserted. This frame can be installed anywhere on the rack, which is very convenient. But, such cases are more expensive and are intended mainly for professional and gaming computers.

13. Slots for expansion cards

Cases for ATX motherboards usually have 7 slots for expansion cards, MicroATX format - 4 slots, which corresponds to the number of corresponding connectors on these motherboards. Smaller or larger enclosures may have a different number of slots. Usually this is not a problem, but keep in mind that the number of slots in the case should be at least the number of slots on the motherboard.

14. Case design

Various decorative elements can be used in the construction of the case. The case can have a front door that covers all or part of the front panel, under which there can be an optical drive, a power button, additional connectors. This makes the appearance more aesthetic, but the use of elements behind the door is extremely inconvenient, since it will constantly have to be opened.

One of the side covers of the housing may have a transparent window. These enclosures are mainly for the enthusiast. If the system unit is assembled from powerful beautiful components, wires do not stick out anywhere, additional illumination inside the case is used and it stands in a conspicuous place, then all this may look interesting.

As far as the backlit fans are concerned, while it looks good at first glance, it can be annoying to those around you. Think about where and how the system unit will stand and in which direction the light will go. He shouldn't hit anyone in the eyes, especially in the dark.

15. Body material

Most of the cases have a steel frame and a front panel made of plastic or a combination of plastic with metal mesh.

The thickness of the frame metal can be different. In cheap cases, this is usually 0.4-0.5 mm, such metal bends easily and the case can rattle. It is better to choose cases with a metal thickness of 0.55-0.8 mm.

Some of the more expensive housings are made of aluminum. Aluminum cases have a more solid appearance, but this has little effect on its other indicators.

16. Body color

As for the color of the case, the most versatile are black or black-silver cases, as they go well with other computer devices, modern household appliances and the interior.

But the most important thing is that you like the case. Then looking at it and pressing the power button you will get an aesthetic pleasure.

17. Setting up filters in the online store

  1. Go to the "Housings" section on the seller's website.
  2. Select the recommended manufacturers.
  3. Select the power supply capacity.
  4. Set other parameters that are important to you.
  5. Review the positions sequentially, starting with the cheaper ones.
  6. If necessary, check the missing data on the manufacturer's website.
  7. Buy a model that is suitable in terms of parameters and design.

Thus, you will get an optimal case in terms of price / quality ratio that meets your requirements at the lowest possible cost.

18. Links


Computer case Zalman Z9 U3 Black
Zalman Z11 Neo Computer Case

Good day, dear readers, visitors, passing personalities and other creatures of this multidimensional universe! :) Let's talk about how to choose a case.

Well, here we got to the next article, which, as it were, will summarize, or rather, will wrap and pack all those components that we learned to choose earlier, relying on articles from the already proven cycle labeled “selection criteria”, where the maximum detailed stories about how to choose one or another component of your computer or peripherals around it. As many remember, there were optional articles, and much more.

As you may have guessed from the title, today we will talk about choosing a case for a computer filling. We will find out what to look for when buying it, whether it is worth overpaying at all, and so on.

Actually, please take your seats in the auditorium, we are starting ..

What we pay for - optional introductory

When you buy any product, what do you pay attention to in the first place? That's right, first on the packaging, then on the content, and only then on the price. In the computer world, the opposite is true, and practically no attention is paid to the packaging of components (i.e. the case).

Usually, when a person wants to buy a computer, the case in the list of components is in the very last positions, except perhaps in front of the mouse and keyboard. Here the following logic is most often followed: “first - the most powerful vidyuhu, then at least 4 kernel, memory 6 GB, well, for the rest of some unpretentious case. " Those. usually normal people are willing to pay for the content, not the wrapper. Partly - this position is correct, but here the wrapper is not just a beautiful candy wrapper, the body is a guarantor of safety, stability and comfortable operation of all computer filling.

Banal life example

Recently I witnessed how my acquaintance saved on the "iron felix" - the case. He took a more expensive vidyuhu, a faster processor, a memory wagon and decided to pack it all into a cheap (noname) case. What do you think happened? That's right, the trouble came from under the table: incomprehensible smells of burning began to appear, the conductors melted, overheating Cpu and other "saved" bonuses.

Therefore, in order not to throw money down the drain, you need to correctly plan your computer budget and wisely approach the purchase of a "packing box" for your components - the case. We will just talk about the latter further.

How to choose a case and what to focus on

So, first of all, it should be said that there are no norms, canons and ideals in case building. And therefore, one should not "be led" on bright phrases - the best, ultramodern, etc., all this is heresy. If you disassemble the technical side, then you need to keep in mind (keep in mind when buying) that there are the following parameters:

  • Case type (form factor, size);
  • Material;
  • Cooling system ();
  • Structural elements, fastening;
  • Appearance, design, gadgets.

Let's go through and analyze each parameter separately, but first we will determine live on the main structural compartments / departments of almost any case. Actually, after removing the cover of your system unit, you can find inside a lot of dust the following niches for installing computer elements (see image).

So, the standard is this:

  • Place under ( 1 ). In modern models, it is often located at the bottom;
  • Floppy drive bays ( 2 ). A rarity for many cases;
  • The cavity for installing the motherboard ( 3 );
  • Niche for a processor with a cooling system ( 4 );
  • Connector for installing a video card ( 5 );
  • Peripheral connectors (mouse, keyboard, sound, hubs, etc.).

Now let's go directly to the parameters.

Type of shell

The modern market for computer cases is represented by many models, but there are certain standards according to which they are produced. These standards are laid down in the so-called form factors that ultimately determine the size of the computer case.

The following frame size standards exist:

  • Mini-ITX;
  • Micro-ATX;
  • ATX;
  • EATX;
  • XL-ATX;

You can also find such a classification of hulls (tower, as they are called):

  • SFF(Small Form Factor) - micro;
  • Mini tower- mini;
  • Middle Tower- average;
  • Big tower- big;

The difference between the standards of the enclosures lies in the different size range intended for this enclosure. To estimate the dimensions, it is convenient to use the table (see image).

The visual size range clearly demonstrates the following image.

I think there is no need to say that the main criterion for choosing a case type completely depends on the tasks that you set for your computer counterpart. Those. mini and micro ATX- these are ideal options for unassuming office users, for whom their iron friend should just fit well into the interior (not taking up much space), and, if possible, do “hard” work in the form of “open-close-save” a document and other office fun :).

What to start from

If your goal is a moderately solid and productive unit, then ATX that's what the doctor ordered. Well, the smartest option for more jovial fans is the standard case XL-ATX(he is Full tower). As I already said, the main criterion for choosing a particular type of case depends on the "metric" of the motherboard that you want to place there to perform the corresponding tasks. Also, the size of the case directly affects the quality of cooling inside, which means the life and performance of all components.

Note:

  • Mini-ITX- the smallest, usually supplied with a built-in low-power PSU (up to 350 W) and are designed for "inch" board size.
  • Micro-ATX Is a typical desktop solution for home users. Has already a slightly more intelligible dimensions and also often comes with a built-in power supply 400-500 Tue In general, it allows you to build on your site a completely satisfactory performance "average".
  • ATX- often sold without a built-in PSU and gives the user complete freedom to expand.
  • EATX and XL-ATX- an excellent, high-performance (including server and powerful gaming) solution for linking several graphics subsystems and computing cores.

Let's move on to the "material" component of the body.

Body material

It would seem, what's the difference from what the body is made, not paper, and okay. But no, the material is important, because it must provide not only high-quality cooling, but also a certain degree of protection against mechanical damage and vibration. Most often, the case material of premium models (with a price of 8 tr) is a metal such as aluminum.

It is he (not counting copper) that has a good ability to dissipate a large amount of heat. Do not think that if the material is not aluminum, then the case will not cope well with its tasks, by no means. Most models of the mid-price (mass consumer) segment are made of special steel SECC- steel coated with galvanic zinc solution.

An important point when buying will also be the build quality and the thickness of the walls of the case themselves. Regarding the first, it should be said that you should not buy (seeming to you at first glance) completely metal cheap Chinese cases. Most often the so-called noname models are made from low-grade stamping, and the build quality is poor, i.e. there are various backlashes, vibrations and crevices due to the fact that the housing components are not tightly fitted to each other.

Note:
It is not entirely correct to think that the entire body is solid metal; you can often find plastic elements in the design of various panels, clamps, fasteners - this is normal.

Wall thickness is also a significant parameter. If it is less 0,5 mm, then more often than not you should not pay attention to such a case, because at the slightest vibrations the rumble will be such that no ear plugs will help. Therefore, try to choose the thickness of the walls of the case from 0,5 before 1 mm.

Cooling system or "carlsons" in the case

Of course, the case is not only a protector against damage, but also a ventilation casing for all components of your PC, providing the necessary "coolness" to its hot elements. However, the rule "the more" wind turbines "in the case, the better" does not work here. It all depends on the competent organization of the ventilation process (air circulation) by installing coolers in the right seats.

In other words, 4-5 factory fans are far from always a guarantee of high-quality cooling of computer internals, because ventilation is created not by the number of "turntables", but by air flows. And if the latter intertwine, collide and interfere with each other, then there is no need to talk about any effective process for removing hot air.

The conventionally widespread ventilation scheme of housings is as follows (see image).

In this scheme, one or more large "unhurried" fans are installed at the inlet, drawing in fresh room air. At the outlet (rear wall of the case) there is a slightly smaller fan, but more "nimble", working for blowing out.

This design allows a decent thrust to be created in an enclosed space and the body starts to work like a large cooling turbine, i.e. cold air, stretching through all hot components, cools them and is thrown outside.

About twists separately and how to choose a body based on them

This standard design is often supplemented with "twists" at the top and side walls of the body, which also work for injection. In general, to create a high-quality cooling environment inside the case, it is necessary to follow these simple rules:

  • More "twists" does not mean better;
  • The air flow should be solid and unidirectional, without breaking it down by various additional flows;
  • Hot air always goes up, and cold air goes down, so you shouldn't put the vertical block on its side;
  • Cables that are loose in the housing can disrupt the movement of air masses;
  • Large fan blades are better than small ones. create more air flow with less revolutions.

It is also worth paying special attention to the fans themselves, or rather, to the volume of air that they can "pump" into the case per unit of time (minute). This technical parameter is called CFM(cubic feet per minute). The volume of circulating air inside the enclosure must be constantly renewed. And in order to calculate by the dimensions of the case what kind of fan he needs, you need to resort to simple math:

  • Multiply the parameters (length, height, width) of the case in mm and find out its area;
  • Define CFM fan.

Let's say for a case with dimensions 253x502x563 mm, the volume is 2,52 cub. feet. To refresh the air every two seconds, the fan must be set to 70 CFM... Very often inside the case you can find large air vents in the form of pipes on the side surface for cooling the processor (see image).

So, the benefits of them are rather doubtful, but they bring their "interference" into the harmony of the air flow, because they block the natural circulation of air, and in exactly the same way as the wires that are not tucked into the casing do. It is also worth mentioning about the not particularly necessary component of the ventilation system of the case - dust nets.

Their efficiency is extremely low, because literally through 2-3 months of active use of the computer, they are corny clogged with room dust, and this again interferes with normal air circulation and contributes to overheating of computer components. In general, these pipes are rarely really effective.

By the way, how to properly deal with dust inside the system unit, we talked about in our article titled, so read and do not get dusty :)

Fastening: tongue and screw. Ergonomics of the case

It would seem, what have the screws got to do with it, but this is what it has to do with it. Very often, in cheap cases, everything is fixed in the old fashioned way with the help of motley screws, the replacement of which turns into dancing with a tambourine. He unscrewed 5 pieces while screwing 3, the fourth rolled away, and one was completely lost in the dark bowels of the case, climbed to look for it (took a flashlight) and along the way scratched itself against the steel edges of the panels, how do you like this perspective?

Top-notch chassis manufacturers have long since solved these problems with a system of plastic rivets and mounts, as well as installing a hard drive sled that slides out on wheels. Everything is flexible, mobile and comfortable (see image).

Such things (plugs, additional fasteners, clamps, shelves) have a positive effect on the ergonomics of the case, or, in other words, on its functional "convenience" for the user. Those. ergonomics, if you like, is the extensibility of your case, its ability to easily transform during modernization, including changing your external and internal world appearance.

Cable routing inside the case is also an important ergonomic feature, as the cooling inside the case also depends on how easy they can be hidden. On the other hand, wires should always be within walking distance if a new drive or disc needs to be connected, and not cause a “tug of war” syndrome in the user. This is when the wire does not reach the socket of the device, but we still pull it there, because there are no more options.

Appearance, design and "navaroty"

What user doesn't like to show off their body? Yes, one that does not have this case :). We are all human and we all want to surprise someone with something. For some computer users, this "surprise" is the design of the case. Here's an example (see image).

It should be understood that design is a purely individual thing, many are ready to sacrifice functionality for the sake of various flashing lights, illuminators and nozzles, and this is everyone's personal business. However, do not forget that the case in strict colors with a minimum amount of backlights, sensors and other tinsel will always look stylish and elegant.

Of the necessary design and engineering gadgets, it should be noted that there are various types of connectors on the front (or top) panel of the case. By default, always displayed: headphones / microphone and USB... Whoever lacks such a "gentleman's set" can easily take a case with a "margin" where there is a port eSATA for connecting a portable hard drive, a cooler rotation speed controller and a couple of modern ultra-fast USB 3.0 ports (see image).

Uff-f, it seems that we have finished with the practical-theoretical part, now let's summarize in order to master all the above material as well as possible and learn how to choose the right PC case the first time.

Frequently asked questions and frequently answered by choice

So, remember the following tips, and such an event as buying the right case will become a habitual activity for you :).

  • Decide on the tasks that your PC will solve (office, gaming, etc.);
  • Based on the tasks, select the required dimensions of the motherboard and case for it;
  • The material of the walls of the case must be from 0.5 before 1 mm;
  • Do not buy noname models, take a closer look at the professionals in their field: Cooler Master, Zalman, Inwin;
  • Cooling systems from 3-4 there are enough fans for efficient heat dissipation;
  • Do not skimp on the block, it must have significant power, otherwise your filling will sooner or later be covered with a copper basin;
  • The best location of the PSU in the case is at the bottom;
  • Make sure that there are plastic elements for the installation of hard drives and drives;
  • Try to buy a case free of various screws and tongues;
  • Pay attention to the presence of additional connectors on the front panel of the case;
  • Remember, a high-quality building starts its "pricing" from an amount of 6,000 rubles or more.

These tips will help you make the right choice!

In a nutshell, something like this.

really allows for 14 days to change the product without any questions, and in case of warranty problems, the store will take your side and help you solve any problems. The author of the site has been using it for years 10 minimum (since the days when they were part Ultra Electoronics), which advises you too;
  • , - one of the oldest stores on the market, as a company exists somewhere on the order 20 years. Decent selection, average prices and one of the most user-friendly sites. All in all, it's a pleasure to work with.
  • The choice is traditionally yours. Of course, everyone's out there Yandex Market"Nobody canceled, but from good stores I would recommend these very ones, and not some MVideo and other large chains (which are often not just expensive, but flawed in terms of quality of service, guarantee work, etc.).

    Afterword

    • The size of the case is large and allows you to install any board and other components without any problems and interference (video cards are extremely long, and the number of wires with a large number of components can be significant, which interferes with air circulation in a small case)
    • Hard drives are placed in a separate unit and have their own mounts (slide without bolts for a screwdriver), as well as, more importantly, fans for a perpendicular and almost independent cooling system, which means sensible air circulation
    • Almost everything is thought out in the body, from the number of additional bolts on the crossbeam to the possibility of installation inside corps UPS.

    But - to each his own. This is so, as a personal opinion.

    Well, our next iron article has come to an end, in which we have learned to choose the right case. Now the only thing left to do is to go to the store and, with a clear conscience, that you know everything, purchase the coveted piece of iron.

    Happy purchases, ladies and gentlemen!

    P.S. Thanks to team member 25 FRAME for the existence of this article

    P.P.S. If you still have questions, misunderstandings and other miscellaneous, as well as additions, thanks, thoughts, etc., then leave them in the comments - we will be happy.

    Oddly enough, but often before buying a new computer, people do not always think about the size and type of future PC (form factor). Most often it falls on the shoulders of sellers who are not always interested in the needs of the CLIENT, to put it simply - which case they got - they put it in that one ... However, this parameter is often important, both for the user and for the computer itself. How important is it? A lot of important parameters depend on the PC form factor (and on the correctness of its choice, of course ...): usability, noise level, case temperature, and hence follows: "health" of the components inside (first of all, hard drives - which store your information - and this, as you know, is the highest value), convenience of work, etc., etc. ... So, how to choose the right size of the system unit of the future PC?

    To begin with, I propose to consider them in more detail in turn:

    In the beginning, it must be said that the size of the PC is added not only to the size of the case itself. The size of the case must also correspond to the dimensions of the components - the motherboard, first of all, the video card, power supply and other devices. For example, you can't put an ATX motherboard in a miniTower case, or a GeForce 9800GTX video card in the same case - it just won't fit. And if it fits, it will be so hot that the small space will not allow efficient heat dissipation, and overheating will threaten all devices ...

    So, let's look at the form factors of the cases - their size can be said to be directly proportional to the capabilities of the future PC. it determines the size of the components that can fit into it. And modern components are often large (for example, powerful video cards). Therefore, in a sense, we can give this advice: the more powerful the PC is planned, the larger the case ...

    Full Tower: Dimensions of such a case: width 15-20cm, height 50-60cm. Such a case has 4 to 9 bays for 5.25 "devices (example: DVD-ROM drive), has 6 to 12 bays for 3.5" devices (example: hard drive), has the ability to install seven expansion cards (for example, TV tuner, sound card). Also, such a case can accommodate a full-size ATX motherboard (we will talk about their dimensions later). To put it simply, this type of case is the largest, and the capacity of various “hardware” is enormous. But here, of course, it all depends on the motherboard - how much it allows you to connect hard drives, expansion cards (which then find a place in the spaciousness of the case), etc. Application: Basically, for powerful computers, focused exclusively on high performance, because such system blocks contain a lot of fast components, which are known to generate a lot of heat, and in such a large case, cooling is not difficult.

    Mid Tower: Perhaps the most common size among home desktops. Its dimensions: width 15-20cm, height 43-45cm. These chassis can accommodate a full-size ATX motherboard, a full-size power supply, multiple hard drives, and quite a few hard drives. Application: We can say - universal. The dimensions are acceptable for both high-performance PCs and the average average home computer. The space inside the chassis allows air to circulate within, usually without obstructing the cooling of the chassis and devices. I recommend it for building PCs - if your PC size requirements are common, and if you don't need a computer “on the shelf”.

    Mini Tower: Mostly common in the office computer sector. Due to their small size (width 15-20cm, height 33-35cm), they allow you to install a little: (1-2 optical drives, 1-2 hard drives and about 4 expansion slots) and devices of average or lower performance. Firstly, because of the size, and secondly, because of heating. There is little space in such a case, and therefore the requirements for the temperature of the devices are higher, so that the nasty noise of the fans and overheating of the devices are not created. But in such a case, you can fit components that are quite enough for office work with text, presentations and spreadsheets.

    Mini PC (Small Form Factor): With their dimensions (width 20 cm, height 18-23 cm) they can accommodate a maximum of 2 expansion slots, few hard drives and imply a compact power supply. This assumes that the user will mainly use the components built into the motherboard (which, by the way, is also small) such as integrated video and sound. In appearance, these cases are reminiscent of household appliances. Their use - as office PCs or as the basis of a home theater. Cooling is not an issue here, since There are very few devices, and they emit a little heat by their intended purpose.

    There are also form factors. Micro PC(which have even smaller dimensions compared to Mini-PCs, but because of their size have even greater limitations) and desktop (horizontal cases located on the table), but they are less common and you are unlikely to have to mess with them.

    So, we looked at the form factors of the cases. I hope - you will choose something suitable for yourself. If not, you can seek individual advice.

    In the following articles from the cycle of form factors, we will generally consider the form factors of the components of the system unit and other devices.

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