How to assemble a computer correctly from the components. Self-assembly of the system unit in pictures or how to assemble a computer at home

For those who decide to assemble their own computer from scratch, rather than buying a ready-made system unit, it will be useful to know how to assemble the individual elements correctly into a single workable whole. I present to your attention a guide on how to assemble a computer.

What to buy

The first step is to buy the minimum necessary kit to start the computer

• frame
• source
• motherboard
• processor cooling system
• RAM
• Video card (not always required discrete)
• HDD

It must be understood that all purchased items must be compatible.

When buying a motherboard and a processor, the socket (in other words, the platform where the processor is inserted) on the board and the CPU must be the same. This parameter is always indicated in the technical specifications, for example, Intel Core i3-4130 has an LGA1150 socket, we can completely install it on the ASRock H81M board. It is also necessary to take into account the RAM connector, at the time of the publication of the article, the most common DDR3, therefore, you need to buy DDR3 memory.
We start with the case, which will be the “home” for all other components. After unpacking, unscrew the side panel.
We see the finished holes for mounting the system board. All you need is to “try on” the board to the holes, and fix it. There are many holes, as some cases are designed for motherboards of different sizes (form factors).

However, before attaching the motherboard, you need to install some elements on it.

Installing the Intel Processor and Cooling System

Open the processor socket using the latch shown in the figure. The thing is quite delicate, you do not need to make much effort.

After opening the slot, pay attention to the processor. In the case of Intel, there is a special edge and a guide on the motherboard that will prevent you from inserting the processor incorrectly. Which greatly simplifies our lives, those who are familiar with electronics know how to bother with microcircuits in order to properly solder them to the board. As a rule, there are no guides on the board, only a dot in the corner of the microcircuit, showing the first leg.

After installing the processor, we finish the procedure by protecting the socket: we close it in the same way as we opened it before.

The next important step is connecting the cooling system.

The cooler is often bundled with the purchased processor, if it is not there, then the processor manufacturer has a list of recommended ones for connection

Be sure to remember the thermal paste. In some radiators, thermal paste is already applied, if it is not, then you need to apply
Pay attention to the cooling system is attached using four latches. They should fit perfectly into the holes on the board, in the corners next to the socket.

Actually, we install it in the holes, and begin to press it without much effort, until you hear four clicks.

It remains for us only to connect the fan to the power system, on the board the connector is designated as CPUF AN, and we connect to it)

If you bought cooling separately, you decided that the standard one is not enough for you. Then you will definitely need to apply thermal paste. Simply apply a small amount to the CPU center and smear it all over with an old credit card or discarded plastic card, fine-tune the surface of the CPU and cooler

Note: When buying a cooling system, do not forget to peel off the film

Processor and Heatsink System Installation - AMD

Consider that in the case of an AMD CPU, installing a cooling system

First, unlock the socket by pulling the metal handle directly adjacent to the edge

The legs of AMD processors are arranged in such a way that it can be inserted into the slot in only one way: as in the case of Intel, it is impossible to install the processor in a different way than the manufacturer intended. Inserted and fixed.

Then apply thermal paste...


We combine the plane of the processor and the base cooling system

Coolers have different mounting methods, and all of them are indicated in the manual, there should not be any difficulties. In our case, next to the socket we have a plastic base with protrusions. The metal mount comes with cooling.

Installing memory (RAM)

The last item we can install in this phase is RAM.
To do this, you need to find the RAM slots located next to the processor socket.

Before installing memory, you should check the motherboard manual to find out which slots to install first (if the number of modules is less than four). In our case, these are blue slots. Opening the latches

Insert modules properly

After installation in the memory slot, return the plastic latches to their original position

At this stage, you should receive a motherboard with a processor, cooling and memory modules. For a while, we put everything aside and go to the case and the power supply.

Installing the power supply

The power supply is installed at the bottom of the case.

We fix it with a fan DOWN.

This position provides him with ideal working conditions: the device constantly has access to cold air from under the case and at the same time excludes the ingress of warm air, which is thrown out of it onto other elements, and nothing additionally heats up.
On the back of the case, fix the power adapter by screwing four screws.

If the power supply does not have removable wires, then we simply pass all the wires through the rubber bushings to the back of the case.
If it is modular (removable cables), then you must first connect the necessary cables, including PCI Express power (for a video card) and SATA (for storage media).

Only now we pass the entire bundle of wires from the power supply through rubber hoses behind the tray with the motherboard.

Installing the motherboard in the case

We insert the board into the case, there should be a specially allocated place for it in the case.


We do not put any gaskets and linings, we use only the set that comes with the kit (bolts plus racks)


Then you need to connect the external USB ports located on the front panel, as well as the power (Power) and reset (Reset) buttons, two indicators that display the activity of storage media and power.
First we look for a connector signed as USB, then we connect the plug

And then find the pins (JFP1) associated with the buttons and LEDs, connect them to the connector, according to the markings nearby.

Installation media (HDD / SSD)

Speaking of mounting hard drives, again, everything is individual. In our case, we have a rack with a plastic sled. We mount a hard drive on these slides, and insert it into the rack.

The next necessary step is to connect the carrier/carriers to the motherboard using SATA signal cables, as well as bring power to them.

To do this, find the small connectors labeled SATA on the board. In the instructions for the board, we check which of them are the fastest (SATA 3 - 6 Gb / s), and it is to them that we connect the disk on which we will install the system, especially if the system is installed on an SSD. Other media will fully satisfy slower speeds (SATA 2 - 3 Gb / s).

First of all, connect the power cable, and then the signal cable

Installing a graphics card

The video card is the last item (within the basic configuration) that needs to be installed.


Look for the first free PCI Express x 16 port (blue, closer to the processor cooling system in the photo below). First, let's deal with traffic jams. 99% of currently available graphics cards need the space occupied by two dies in the back

As in the case of memory slots, the PCI Express slot has small protrusions that will prevent mistakenly inserting a video card. You simply have no choice, you will do everything right.

Then we fix the video card.

Connecting power to the motherboard

The motherboard is powered by two wires. One is the 24-pin connector shown in the picture below. Located on the right side of the board, next to the RAM.

The second cable is for powering the heart of the computer - the processor. insert it into the socket located in the upper left corner.

It remains to "feed" our video card. The most energy-intensive (but powerful) models require two plugs, as seen in the picture.

Before closing the case, you need to check the operation of the power button, reset and LED information (the part that tells you that your computer is on, and others that indicate HDD / SSD activity).

Results

The idea that there is something extremely complex in the assembly is erroneous. It really takes a lot of effort to mess something up. Hardware manufacturers take care of the convenience of users by introducing physical restrictions: the processor can be inserted into the socket in only one position, it is impossible to connect the power connector to the wrong side, or to the wrong connector. The worst thing that can happen is you can forget about one of the cables. But you shouldn't worry about it: nothing will happen to the computer, it just won't start until the wires are properly connected. Good luck!

In view of the constant rise in prices, the question is becoming more and more acute for us, PC users, how to make your own computer? First of all, we select the components necessary for it - components.

This has been discussed in detail in previous articles:

When all the components that are compatible with each other are already on our table, we come close to the actual process of assembling our computer. If you are assembling a computer for the first time, then the main thing here is not to rush, but to arm yourself with a Phillips screwdriver, concentrate and carefully follow the instructions. This is what our patient looked like before the "surgery" after a little dusting:

But for now, we will leave it alone and start by assembling a new motherboard - if you first put it into the case right away, then it will be inconvenient to install the processor and cooler later. I recommend putting it on some kind of plastic, rubber or wooden surface that does not conduct electricity - I used the plastic packaging for this, in which the board was wrapped when it was sold. It is also not recommended during assembly to be dressed in things that contribute to the appearance of static electricity - in wool or synthetics. Another tip is to touch a metal pipe in order to remove an electrical discharge that may have already accumulated on the body. professionals also put a special metal bracelet on their hand to avoid its appearance in the future during the assembly process.

How to make a computer with your own hands?

So, the preparations are made - let's start assembling the computer. First, open the latch on the socket and carefully pull the processor out of the package - you need to be especially careful with AMD, since it has connector legs sticking out from the outside, like old Intels, which can be easily bent or broken off.

The processor has a corner icon that indicates in what position you need to insert it into the socket - a similar corner is drawn on the socket itself. After firmly inserting it into the slots, close the socket latch to securely fix the processor.

Now we will install the cooling fan. As a rule, factory thermal paste is already applied to the radiator. Leave it or erase it and use your own - everyone's personal business. At first I thought about leaving it, but knowing about the low properties of the Chinese paste, I decided to erase it and replace it with my own - I use MX-2 from Arctic Cool. With good performance, it is cheaper than competitors - a large tube costs the same as a small one from others. We apply the paste in a thin even layer over the surface of the processor - you do not need to apply a lot of it. The task of the paste is to force the air out from under the heatsink for a closer connection with the processor case.

After that, install the cooler. If the fans for Intel sockets are very simple - there are 4 holes and latches, then here instead of them there are a pair of lugs on which the metal mustache-holders of the cooler are put on.

There are models of fans where the mount is implemented in the form of a lever that, when pressed, clamps these whiskers, but in our model they were held on by screws, which, unfortunately, turned out to be of poor quality. When, after assembling the cooler and installing it in its original place, I began to turn them back, it turned out that half of the thread had already been cut off when unscrewing it! Such is the Chinese quality of the metal - I had to select screws of the appropriate diameter and length from my strategic stocks - in general, they tinkered a little. The main thing when installing a cooling system is to make sure that the heatsink fits snugly and evenly over the entire surface, without distortions, to the processor, so be careful.

After that, we look for 4 pins on the motherboard with the inscription "CPU_Fan" - this is the cooler's power supply. We insert it in accordance with the guides on the plug and in the mount - it is simply impossible to insert it incorrectly - the main thing is not to do anything by force, with the correct position, all connections on any plugs are inserted without much effort. If there are only 3 pins on the fan plug, then you can safely insert it onto the 4-pin connector on the board. The fourth contact is used to control the speed, which is configured in the BIOS - in your case, this function will simply not be available, but this does not affect the main operation of the cooler.

If there are several such connectors, then you can connect it so that the wire goes around the radiator - so as not to interfere and not accidentally fall under the blades.

And the final touch is the installation of the RAM. There are no difficulties here - we combine the key on the slot with the lock on the memory module and insert it until the latches click. Our motherboard has 2 memory slots - if you have one stick, you can insert it into any of them, in any case, only 1 channel will be used.

And now it's time to install the mother in the case. To begin with, we try it on and look at which holes the screws will be attached to. If you are building a new computer, then special non-conductive metal spacers should be attached to the case or to the board, which are needed in order to avoid short-circuiting the contacts with the case. Be sure to screw them in.

After that, we insert a plug with cutouts for the external outputs of the motherboard into the rectangular hole on the back cover of the case - this bracket comes with the board.

And finally, we lower the assembled system board into the case, adjust it so that the holes in it fall on the threaded spacers. And we fasten it with screws - you don’t need to screw it up with all the dope, just pull it tightly so that it doesn’t hang out.

Continuing to build a PC - installing an SSD and connecting devices

Since we left the HDD and DVD drive in place, we only need to install the SSD drive. Here we had to face one problem - the size of the disk is 2.5 inches, so it does not fit into the regular place for disks - it is too small. In theory, there are special slide adapters for this, but we did not have them available. the output was very original. A non-working floppy disk was installed in the case. We pulled it out and found that the device has a very convenient and suitable bottom that can be unscrewed and used instead of a sled. There were several holes in the cover, to which the SSD was attached. It turned out very great!

Now you need to connect all the devices to the power supply and the motherboard. Details about all the power supply connectors are described in, and for clarity, I give a diagram with the power supply connectors of my model.

First, we connect the main multi-wire power cable of the board - it has 20 or 24 pins. Inserting incorrectly will not work, since each cell has its own shape. Also, a distinctive indicator is the presence of a latch - the latch on the cable must match the lock on the board connector. Therefore, at first we simply apply a wide plug to the outlet so that it falls into place, and then we press to fix it.

Next, we connect the processor power - this is a 4 or 8-pin cable (not to be confused with a 6-pin!). The slot for connecting it is usually somewhere near the socket. If there is an 8-pin on the board, and 4x comes from the PSU, then in principle it can be inserted, but perhaps there is not enough power to operate other expansion cards connected to the board.

After that, you need to run the power cables to the rest of the devices - HDD, SSD and drive. We connect the SATA power (narrow wide connector) to the wide SATA connectors of the drives. I already wrote in detail about all the possible connectors on the motherboard.

And with separate cables with narrow SATA plugs, we connect the drives (and the DVD drive, if it has such an interface) to the SATA sockets on the motherboard.

If you have more connected devices than power connectors from the PSU, as happened in my case, then you can use a Molex-Sata adapter cable and record it from another cable connector.

We also needed an adapter to connect a DVD drive. The fact is that it connected to the motherboard via an outdated IDE cable, and it has long been absent from new boards. Therefore, to connect it in our computer assembly, we had to use a special adapter that allows you to connect an IDE device to a SATA connector on the board. It has a separate power supply in the form of a 4-pin connector, from which the flop was previously powered.

Of course, you need to connect another Molex type power cable from the PSU to the drive itself. Here's what the whole thing looks like put together.

It is also worth noting that you may need to install separate drivers for this adapter later, otherwise the drive may not be detected in Windows and it will be impossible to read CD-DVD discs.

After we connected all the devices to the board, the only thing left to do is to connect the case power and reset buttons, as well as USB and audio inputs located on the front panel of the case, from which several multi-colored thin wires extend.

In each model of the motherboard, they are located differently, so you need to look at the instructions specifically for each model - it is either included in the kit or available on the official website of the manufacturer. I will give only generally accepted abbreviations that are applied to the plugs of these wires:

HDD LED - LED indication of the operation of the system hard disk
POWER SW - on-off button
RESET SW - reset button
POWER LED - computer power-on LED
G - Ground, that is, "earth"

These wires can be either separate or grouped - the main thing during assembly is to observe the polarity, which is indicated in the instructions and also duplicated in small print on the board itself. Also, with some modifications, the kit comes with convenient adapters for group connection with a clear indication of which wire to insert where.

The same applies to USB inputs, but they are usually made with a single plug. And this is how the contacts for the front panel are located on our AsRock model:

This completes the self-assembly of the computer - it remains to turn it on, connect it to the monitor and check if the BIOS is loading. If everything is in order, then you can proceed with the installation of the operating system, and then also install the drivers included on the disk on the motherboard.

If you have any questions - write in the comments. And finally, watch the video filmed during the assembly of this computer.

3DNews has a large and diverse audience. The resource is visited by both seasoned enthusiasts who have assembled far from one PC, and readers who are just starting to delve into all the intricacies of computer technology. The test lab elegantly overclocks them to serious frequencies, to study the durability of drives, in modern games and to purchase unusual hardware abroad, but at the same time, it does not forget about inexperienced users. So the heading "" appeared, which offers a variety of configurations of system units. After reading the comments and personal communication with the readers of the site, it became clear to me that it was time to tell in detail and show newcomers how to assemble the components proposed in the article into a single whole. This is what this article is about.

⇡ Selection and compatibility of components

Sometimes it’s harder to decide on a set of components that will make up your PC than to assemble a system unit at home with your own hands. On sale you can find a huge number of processors, motherboards and video cards. You can argue for a long time about which brand is preferable, as well as discussing whose graphics are faster - the main thing is that when the final choice of configuration is made, all hardware is fully compatible with each other. By the way, it is precisely such systems that I offer in "". Subject to this rule, the assembly of the system unit is not much different from the game of constructor, in which all the parts fit together. Component sizes, mounting hole parameters and connectors - all computer elements are strictly regulated, and therefore, for example, it cannot be that DDR3 standard RAM suddenly works on a motherboard with DIMM slots designed to install exclusively DDR4 modules. You simply cannot install them in the appropriate slots.

For the full functioning of the system unit, you must purchase the following devices: motherboard, central processor, cooler, RAM, hard drive or solid state drive, video card (if the CPU or motherboard does not have an integrated graphics core), power supply and case. Additional components include an optical drive, as well as all kinds of discrete devices: network and sound cards, additional cooling.

The motherboard is the backbone of any computer. It depends on it which processors will be used, how many RAM modules, video cards and drives can be installed. Motherboard dimensions also play an important role in case selection. At the moment, among motherboards, solutions of the form factors E-ATX (305 × 330 mm), ATX (305 × 244, 305 × 225 or 305 × 199 mm), mATX (244 × 244, 244 × 225 or 191 × 188 mm) and mini-ITX (170 × 170 mm), although there are much more standard sizes of such devices. The form factor is always listed in the chassis specifications.

The “home” for components itself is also divided into types depending on the size and shape. As a rule, the larger the computer case, the more productive hardware we can install in it, while ensuring high-quality cooling of all system components. Dependence, however, is non-linear - practice shows that it is quite possible to assemble a powerful gaming PC in compact cases with a volume of 7-10 liters. You just have to carefully select all the components first.

Among PC cases, four types of models are most popular: Midi-Tower (examples - and), Full Tower (), Mini-Tower () and Slim Desktop (). Naturally, the smaller the device, the fewer seats it has for installing discrete video cards, drives, and case fans. For example, the Node 202 with a capacity of 10 liters can only install 2.5-inch hard drives and SSDs. A conscientious manufacturer indicates all these features in the technical characteristics of the device.

When choosing components, pay attention to other limitations that any computer case has:

• maximum height of the CPU cooler;
• maximum length of the video card;
• maximum length of the power supply.

Before buying equipment, be sure to make sure that all devices are compatible with each other, do not conflict and fit exactly in the computer case. The simplest logical chain that will not allow you to purchase components that do not match each other is as follows:

• We determine the model of the central processor.
• We select a motherboard with a suitable socket for this CPU.
• We study the list of compatible motherboard hardware on the official website and select a set of RAM.
• Choose drives that are compatible with the motherboard.
• We select a video card, power supply, processor cooling and a case that will fit all the components.

Again, the above sequence is by no means an axiom. Since building a PC is always a creative process, the sequence of choosing hardware can change. For example, you liked a certain case and want to assemble your dream system only in it. Or do you already have some components on hand, and you need to buy everything else.

If the system unit will use an unattended water cooling system for a processor or video card, then it is additionally necessary to find out the sizes of supported radiators, as well as the places where they can be installed. It is obvious that the seats for installing the SVO coincide with the places where the fans are attached. Single-section radiators are usually installed on the rear wall, two-section and three-section - on the top and / or front.

To write this material, based on the above sequence for selecting components, I used the following set of devices:

• AMD Ryzen 7 1700 CPU, socket AM4, 3.0 (3.7) GHz;
• MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON motherboard, socket AM4, X370 chipset;
• RAM Kingston HyperX Fury (HX426C16FR2K4 / 32), 4 × 8 GB, DDR4-2666;
• solid state drive;
• video card;
• power supply Cooler Master MasterWatt, 500 W;
• case Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition;
• processor cooling Cooler Master MasterLiquid 120.

As you can see, in preparing this material, the most common form factors are used - ATX for the motherboard and Midi-Tower for the case. Similar options are offered in the "Computer of the Month" - because this size is the most versatile and most popular. True, I cannot say that the assembly process in Mini-Tower and Slim Desktop cases is fundamentally different. It's just that the requirements for the selection of iron compatible with each other turn out to be much higher.

In addition, I note that when selecting devices, all modern trends are taken into account. The main drive is the Kingston HyperX Predator model with a PCI Express interface. And the choice in favor of the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition was made because of the possibility of installing a power supply unit at the bottom of the chassis, as well as the presence of a mount for drives on the barrier wall. Plus, maintenance-free liquid cooling systems are very popular. Cooler Master MasterLiquid 120 is a bright representative of one-section dropsies, which are ready to work out of the box. The remaining components are selected in such a way that in the end we get a productive system unit for work and entertainment. The optical drive has not been used. In my opinion, in 2017 there is no need for it, and the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition (as well as many other new cases of this format) lacks seats for installing devices in 5.25-inch bays.

To assemble the system unit, you will definitely need two Phillips screwdrivers with different slot diameters, nylon ties and wire cutters. Pliers may come in handy - in cheap cases, threads are cut by eye, as well as double-sided adhesive tape, degreasing liquid and cotton swabs. In order not to scratch the case and not damage the motherboard, I put all the components on a rubber mat. An anti-static wrist strap or gloves are also useful for beginners, but, to be honest, more to give self-confidence. Since assembling a PC includes connecting small connectors to the motherboard, you definitely cannot do without good lighting or a flashlight at hand.

⇡ Step #1. Installing the processor and RAM

The motherboard user manual always contains a description of the installation of all major components and connectors. Beginners, keep this book with you. The sequence of steps for assembling the system unit may vary depending on the type of components. For example, sometimes it is better to install a processor cooler immediately, and sometimes - in the penultimate or last place. Even before fixing the motherboard in the case, you must install the CPU and RAM in the appropriate slots.

You probably know that AMD and Intel processors are structurally very different from each other. So, for AMD chips, protruding contacts, called “legs” by the ironworkers, are located directly on the textolite substrate. But Intel chips do not have such elements - for these CPUs, the contacts are placed directly in the motherboard socket.

AMD chips are installed very simply: raise the lever, put the processor on a plastic substrate, lower the lever.

As for Intel solutions for LGA115X platforms, a similar technique is used here: together with the lever, we raise the clamping frame, install the processor, lower the lever and the clamping frame.

In the case of Intel LGA2011 and LGA2011-v3 platforms, two levers must be released from the locking slots to raise the clamping frame.

Please note that all CPUs and motherboards are equipped with pointers and so-called foolproofing. In principle, you will not be able to install the chip into the socket in any other way, so NEVER use force when assembling a computer. All elements in the system unit are equipped with protection against incorrect connection. In addition to the CPU, you will not be able to connect power supply cables, case connectors, fans, discrete devices, drives and RAM in any other way. More precisely, you can, but for this you will need to make every effort. I think it's not worth talking about the consequences of improper installation of PC components.

After the CPU, I install RAM into the DIMM slots, usually located on the right side of the CPU. MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON supports DDR4 RAM, four ports are soldered on the printed circuit board at once. In some motherboards, there may be only two of them (most often these are either the cheapest devices, or mini-ITX form factor solutions, or), in models for the LGA2011 and LGA2011-v3 platforms, eight. Usually on PCB all DIMM slots are marked.

Most modern AMD and Intel processors have dual-channel RAM controllers. Therefore, motherboards use either two or four DIMM slots. Therefore, the installation of either two or four RAM modules is considered optimal. In the first case, RAM is installed through one connector. Some motherboards have special pointers. For example, in the MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON, modules are installed in the DIMMA2 and DIMMB2 slots - in this case, the RAM will work in dual-channel mode. In other motherboards, there are inscriptions like - in such cases, to ensure the operation of the dual-channel mode, the modules must be installed in the DDR4_A1 / DDR4_B1, DIMM_A1 / DIMM_B1 and DDR4_1 / DDR4_2 slots, respectively.

"Fool-proof" in RAM

I have already said that it will not work to insert the RAM incorrectly, since a jumper is used in the design of the DIMM connectors. It is also used to prevent the user from "squeezing" modules of another standard into a motherboard that supports DDR4.

RAM boards are fixed using latches located along the edges of the DIMM slots. On some motherboards, these latches are located on only one side of the connectors. This is done so that the user can freely change RAM modules without removing, for example, a video card.

After installing the CPU and RAM, you can immediately install a CPU cooler, but only if its design uses a small heatsink. The use of an overall cooling system will make it difficult to install the motherboard, as well as the subsequent connection of wires. The photo above shows examples of installing boxed coolers - the so-called COs that are sold together with processors. Coolers for AMD AM3+ and FM2+ platforms are attached using plastic "ears" - a special metal bracket with lugs clings to them. Boxed cooling for Ryzen chips is installed differently, here you have to work with a screwdriver: first remove the plastic mount, and then screw the heatsink to the backplate. The cooler for Intel processors is attached using plastic clips: install the heatsink on the CPU and press the latch until you hear a characteristic click. In general, in the case of installing boxed cooling systems, even beginners should not have problems.

Some coolers already have thermal paste on the soleplate - its use significantly increases the efficiency of heat removal from the CPU. In any case, thermal paste is always included with the CPU cooler. For example, Cooler Master MasterLiquid 120 came with a small tube, which, nevertheless, should be enough for 3-4 times. Please remember to remove the protective film before installing the cooling system, if any, on the base of the device. The process of applying thermal paste is described in paragraph number five.

But the installation of other coolers is carried out on an individual basis, since each manufacturer uses a fixing kit of his own design. Therefore, immediately take out the instructions from the packaging from the CO. Most devices are equipped with universal mounting mechanisms that are suitable for both AMD and Intel processors. True, the mating part of the mount, which must be pre-fixed on the board, is different for different platforms. The list of supported equipment, as well as the dimensions of the cooler, are always indicated in the technical specifications. And yet, there are enough models on sale that are compatible with only one specific platform.

Once again: if the device is large or, as in my case, a maintenance-free liquid cooling system is used, then at the first stage it is enough to fix the back plate and frames on the board, which will hold the cooler radiator. We will install the radiator itself in the penultimate turn, after all the cables are connected to the motherboard. Yes, in cases of the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition level, the barrier wall has a window for accessing the cooler's backplate, but it is far from always convenient to use it.

If we talk about air processor coolers, then the tower-type coolers are considered the most popular. Depending on the platform used and on the specific model, the CO radiator can be installed in two positions. In the first case, the cooler fan will blow air through the back wall of the case, in the second case, through the top. The correct installation option determines the shape of the enclosure used. So, in the case of models of Full-, Midi- and Mini-Tower formats, it is better to use the first option. It is important that the CO used does not overlap the expansion slots, and also does not rest against the cooling elements of the motherboard power subsystem. For example, MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON does not conflict with even the largest cooling towers. Also, a wide CPU cooler can interfere with the installation of RAM modules with tall heatsinks. Therefore, it is better to use compact RAM kits, such as the Kingston HyperX Fury for example, or make 100% sure that CPU cooling and memory will not conflict with each other.

Our build uses the maintenance-free Cooler Master MasterLiquid 120 liquid cooling system, so it will be installed last but one (step #5).

Cooler and case fans are connected to the motherboard using 3- and 4-pin connectors. The MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON has six such elements soldered at once, which is very convenient. The number of such ports is not regulated in any way, but at least two connectors must be present on the board: for connecting a CPU cooler fan and for a system (case) impeller. All connectors are marked accordingly: CPU_FAN, SYS_FAN (or CHA_FAN). Sometimes a 4-pin connector designed for a processor cooler is highlighted in a different color (most often white). And in the boards of the middle and high price ranges, you can find the PUMP_FAN connector. It is designed to connect the rotor of a water cooling pump, but at the same time it is suitable for any other fans. It's just that a larger current is transmitted through this port.

The connector with three pins does not allow you to adjust the speed of the fan connected to it. But the 4-pin port has such an opportunity, and modern motherboards can control the speed of the “turntables” both with pulse-width modulation (fans with four pins) and without it (fans with three pins).

With a shortage of connectors for connecting case fans, all kinds of adapters will help. This can be an ordinary splitter that allows you to connect several impellers to one 3- or 4-pin port at once. Or a cable connected to the MOLEX or SATA connector. And there are devices such as, although their popularity has never been high. However, they are initially equipped with simple (most often three-position) controllers that control the fan speed by lowering the voltage from 12 to 7 or 5 V.

In the case of our PC, there is no need for additional adapters and splitters, since only two CBO fans and one case impeller need to be connected to the motherboard.

⇡ Step #2. Installing the Motherboard and Connecting the Case Connectors

Now that the CPU and RAM are connected to the motherboard, it's time to start working on the case.

For a long time, in tower cases, the power supply is installed mainly from below. This was done both for aesthetic reasons (it is more convenient and easier to lay wires), and for the sake of increasing the cooling efficiency, primarily of the PSU itself. However, on sale there are models of cases with other options for installing a power supply unit.

Seats for installing the power supply, 2.5- and 3.5-inch drives

The Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition is designed with a small sled cage that holds two 3.5-inch hard drives. More compact 2.5-inch drives are mounted on a barrier wall.

Installing the motherboard begins with securing the I/O panel blank in the rectangular hole provided for this purpose. You won't have any difficulties. The plug is always included with the motherboard.

Mounting accessories are always supplied with the housing. Along with the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition, I found three types of screws, as well as plastic clips for installing additional fans. Other housings may have more mounting options. On some models, the standoff screws needed to mount the motherboard are already screwed into the corresponding threaded holes on the barrier wall. In the case of Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition, you will have to do this procedure yourself.

So, the case supports the installation of mini-ITX, mATX, ATX and even E-ATX form factor motherboards. There are symbols on the wall (a similar memo is used in many models). Since the assembly uses an ATX form factor board, it is necessary to screw all eight stand screws into the threaded holes marked with the letter "A". However, not all motherboards related to this size correspond to the length and width parameters of 305 × 244 mm. For example, the MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON is already 19 mm, so it cannot be fixed in the case along the right edge. Therefore, when connecting wires from the power supply or mounting memory modules in DIMM slots, the PCB will sag. Install these items carefully in such cases.

After the motherboard is fixed, I personally immediately connect the controls and connectors of the front panel of the case. On the front wall of the Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MSI Edition, there are two USB 3.0 A-type ports, two 3.5 mm mini-jacks for headphones and a microphone, as well as system power and forced reboot keys. Difficulties can arise only when connecting controls - this is a bundle of wires with Power LED- and Power LED + connectors (transfer information to the computer status indicator), Power SW (responsible for the operation of the power button), HDD LED- and HDD LED + (transfer information to the drive activity indicator ), as well as Reset SW (responsible for the operation of the forced reboot button). Some elements may not be on the “face” of the case, since not all devices are equipped, for example, with a Reset key or LED indicators. However, in all cases, these connectors are connected in a certain sequence, as shown in the table below. It's just that motherboard manufacturers use their own designations for essentially the same pad: JFP1 in MSI motherboards; PANEL at ASUS; PANEL1 on ASRock and F_PANEL on GIGABYTE.

Power LED+	Power LED-	Power SW	Power SW
HDD LED+	HDD LED-	Reset SW	Reset SW

In addition, among the internal connectors on the motherboard, there may be contact pads for connecting USB 3.1 and USB 2.0 ports, RGB strips, a TPM module, FP audio, and a speaker.

A gaming computer can be considered a computer that is capable of playing all modern games, providing an acceptable level of comfort from this entertainment. But the requirements of users are different, so very different devices fall into the category of gaming PCs. For many users, it is enough that the games are played smoothly, the game world is displayed correctly and there are no control problems. Professional gamers (who earn money playing games) and those who spend a significant part of their leisure time in games put forward more stringent requirements for PC performance.

This material will tell you how to assemble a gaming PC with your own hands for both users who need smooth rendering of the picture on the screen, and gamers for whom the quality of graphics is above all else. Of course, for these two categories of buyers, both the performance of components and their cost will differ significantly (up to ten times). But general recommendations on how to assemble a gaming PC with your own hands will be similar for everyone.

Building a PC on your own is, first of all, a solution that allows you to choose the optimal configuration for the needs of a particular user. Also, self-completing a computer is a way to save money. The question of how to build a cheap gaming PC is of interest to many users. Unfortunately, the performance of a computer is largely dependent on its cost. Therefore, a very cheap (for example, for 10-15 thousand rubles) gaming PC is now impossible to assemble.

Where to begin

Budget is a key factor when choosing accessories. Therefore, first of all, you should decide how much will be allocated for the purchase. It also matters whether you need the system unit itself, or peripheral devices (monitor, acoustics, keyboard, mouse).

In the model range of each manufacturer there are several sockets (processor sockets). Each of them requires a motherboard with its own connector. If the CPU is equipped with Socket 1155, then the motherboard must have the same. In addition, you should consider the compatibility of the board with specific processor models. As a rule, board manufacturers publish lists of supported CPUs on official websites.

The requirements for the board itself are determined based on the number and capacity of RAM sticks to be installed, the number of connected drives (HDD, SSD), their interfaces (SATA, PCI-Express or M.2) and overclocking capabilities. The future upgrade also matters: if one is planned in a couple of months or years, you need to choose a motherboard with a large number of interfaces and a fresh chipset (for example, MSI H61M-P31/W8 for Intel, ASUS M5A78L-M LX for AMD). If the computer is taken for a long time, and the “pumping” of its components is not provided, you can save a little on the system board.

An advanced motherboard is needed if you plan to upgrade

video card

The GPU in a gaming PC is just as (if not more) important than the CPU. It is the video card that is responsible for processing the three-dimensional image and its output to the display. However, you can't just pick up and install a powerful video card and save on other hardware. Information for further processing by the GPU is prepared by the "CPU + RAM" bundle, which, in turn, receives data from the drive (HDD and SSD).

A weak processor will not allow you to unleash the potential of a gaming video card

The “weak link” (regardless of whether it is a processor, video card or hard drive) will pull the system down, becoming a bottleneck. You can draw an analogy with a logistics terminal: no matter how high its throughput is, no matter how many cars become loaded, if there is a lack of loading equipment and labor, expanding the capabilities of the terminal itself will not help speed up its work.

Tandems of the form “inexpensive Intel Core i3 (or similar in terms of AMD FX series 4xxx) + Geforce GTX Titan X”, thus, are extremely inefficient and are a waste of money. The "ceiling" of such processors is video cards of the Geforce GTX 750 Ti class. Such a chip will not reveal the potential of a more productive GPU.

To assess whether a combination of the selected processor and video card will have the optimal ratio of features, you can compare prices for them. The cost of the GPU must exceed the price of the CPU. In the budget category (Intel Core i3, AMD FX series 4xxx and 6xxx) the difference is 10-30%, and in the niche of more expensive devices it can reach 100%. That is, if you plan to buy a processor for 8,000 rubles, then it makes no sense to install a video card for 15,000 and more. But GeForce GTX 980, costing up to 50 thousand, will be optimally combined with an Intel Core i7 CPU for 25-30 thousand.

Video cards can also be installed 2 if the motherboard supports SLI (for Nvidia GeForce) or CrossFire (AMD Radeon) technologies. In the budget segment, such a solution looks pointless (1 GPU for 15 thousand will be more productive than 2 for 8 thousand). In the top class, the connection of two video cards allows you to achieve an increase in performance, which cannot be realized in other ways.

Two video cards in SLI will increase the performance of a gaming PC

If you plan to upgrade your PC, you can purchase a motherboard with support for two video cards and get a GeForce GTX 960-level GPU. So far, the capabilities of this video card are enough to play all the games, and in a year it can be paired with another one of the same to increase performance.

It should be remembered that in order to work in SLI/CrossFire, video cards must be built on the same version of the graphics processor, if not identical.

RAM

When choosing RAM, the main thing is to consider the compatibility of generations and operating frequencies. For example, sixth-generation Intel Core i7 processors (and motherboards compatible with them) work with DDR4 RAM sticks, and AMD FX 8xxx - DDR3.

DDR4 memory is faster, but not supported by all processors

The amount of RAM is limited by the wallet and the number of slots on the motherboard. RAM is a never-ending resource (thank you to software developers who don't go to great lengths to optimize memory consumption after switching to 64-bit Windows). Therefore, install 8 GB of RAM, or 32 - it's up to users to decide.

When selecting RAM strips, it is recommended to install them in pairs or triples. In this case, the chips operate in two or three-channel (depending on the CPU model and motherboard) mode. In this case, the speed of data exchange theoretically increases, respectively, by two or three times. Two 4 GB modules will work faster than 1 x 8 GB.

Drives

Hard drives are slowly losing ground under the pressure of rapidly reducing the price, gaining capacity and becoming more reliable SSD. Since it is impossible to assemble a powerful gaming PC without a high-speed drive, a gaming computer cannot do without a solid-state drive. A capacity of 256 or 512 GB is enough to install Windows and games, and for multimedia content (music, movies), you can install a capacious HDD of 2, 3 or more terabytes in parallel.

The capacity of modern HDDs has already reached 10 TB

Hello my dear readers!

During the rapid development of computer technology, it is very difficult to imagine your life without a PC. And if you do not yet have a laptop, netbook, or personal computer, then you are definitely thinking about such a purchase.

What could be easier: go and buy?! But it is much cheaper to buy a computer from parts and assemble it from components yourself, and you can choose the characteristics as you wish.

Before you build your own computer from scratch with your own hands, find out how much a standard set of parts costs in a store. Actually, I used the online service to check the compatibility of elements of the future PC http://www.edelws.ru/constructor/. This is very convenient, since without special computer knowledge it is very difficult to choose the hardware yourself. Plus, the accessories are cheap.

Frame

There is no need to choose here. This element has absolutely no effect on the workflow of the device. Buying a case should be based on comfort. It is desirable that it be possible to install a USB port on the front side of the box, a disk drive and various panels on the back wall (TV tuner, etc.).

The material doesn't matter either.

Dimensions can be important.

Two main factors play a role here - the number of slots for RAM sticks and cooling. If you just want to work at a computer and nothing else, then 2 slots for brackets is enough and cooling does not play a particularly important role.

But, if you are an avid gamer, in this case, you should be able to install RAM from 8 GB or more, and for this you need 4 slots. Naturally, for such power there should be a good and reliable cooler for cooling. So when choosing a motherboard, pay attention to the size of the drain fan. It seems like a small thing, but it's important.

power unit

The most popular option is a 500W power supply. Its power is enough to connect any peripheral device without autonomous power supply. In addition, such a unit is able to withstand power surges without harm to the computer.

Another power supply must fit under the case you have chosen (for reliable fastening).

All memory modules are divided into 2 types: DDR2 (for desktop computers) and DDR3 (for laptops, netbooks and monoblocks). The number of brackets to be installed directly depends on the motherboard you choose (this was discussed above). They are installed extremely simply, like a flash drive in a phone: press until it clicks.

When buying RAM, you should pay attention to the cut at the copper contacts of the bar, since they are all different in their scheme, that is, only a certain group of memory modules corresponds to each motherboard.

Choosing this part is very simple: the larger the volume, the better.

This is a very important detail for any gamer. It is graphics memory that can provide a high-quality image. Among the large number of video cards, Nvidia G-Force, AMD ATI Radeon (for video games) and Intel ® Graphics HD (for work and office programs) are most often used.

The Intel® Graphics HD isn't a very powerful graphics card, but most stock laptops come with one. Naturally, a gaming PC can also do an excellent job with office work, but it costs more.

The type of connector for connecting a video adapter is different, so the graphics chipset must be selected for the main circuit.

Now the choice of such computer parts is simply incredible, so there will be no problems with the search. Not unimportant for the video card and cooling. There is no cooler on ordinary office adapters, there is only a large aluminum heatsink that provides cooling. More powerful cards are equipped with one or even two fans for more reliable cooling.

It makes no sense to hide that the graphics chipset is the most expensive part in a computer, since most of the functions of a PC or laptop are available thanks to this particular adapter. Needless to say, most of even the oldest video games won't run on stock graphics memory! If you need a budget work computer, then a discrete graphics card should be enough for you.

Processor (CPU)

Most motherboards already go on sale with a processor installed. But, if you know how to install it yourself, then you can take an empty main board and pick up the CPU yourself.

Now the most popular central processors are i3, i5, i7 devices. The most expensive, the last respectively. There is absolutely no point in buying the first options, since they are already considered obsolete.

The above processors from Intel operate at extreme frequencies, which allows you to enjoy the workflow of a computer or video game with great pleasure. But be aware that installing a CPU is not as easy as it might seem, so if you don't have even the most minimal idea about PC hardware, then buy the main board with the CPU already installed.

You do not need to choose this part for a long time, all contacts are exactly the same on any processor.

Hard Disk (HDD, Hard Drive or Winchester)

This part of the computer also has absolutely no value in terms of device performance. Winchester is responsible only for storing files, software and computer OS. All new generation hard drives have exactly the same connection principle (SATA II), the only difference is in their purpose (PC or laptop).

If you want to store fairly large amounts of files, but don't want to throw out large sums of money, then 500 GB will be enough for you. All knowledgeable people choose Hard from Samsung, as these drives are distinguished by high reliability and good throughput.

Sound card

This is a small board that connects to the motherboard and is output to the back of the box. It has headphone, speaker and microphone inputs. Even the age of the sound card does not matter: they are all structurally the same. Choose what is cheaper.

A couple more nuances

In principle, there is no need to install a floppy drive or an optical drive, since they are already receding into history. External hard drives and flash drives have completely pushed them out of the world of computer technology. But, if you prefer to store information (photos, movies, music, etc.) on DVDs in the old fashioned way, then make sure you have a drive on your PC.

After reading the article, you learned how to assemble your computer from components yourself. Thus, you can save up to 10% -15% of the cost of a long-awaited computer. If you want to better and deeper understand the hardware, I advise you to take a training course “ genius geek”.

I wish you all success! Tell your friends and acquaintances on social networks about your intentions by sharing a link to this article. Do not forget to subscribe to blog updates - this is an opportunity to get a lot of useful information about your PC. See you!

Sincerely! Abdullin Ruslan