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Why are we so sure of this?
Buzzing LED lights
Because we pay them for it!
Bought 3 LED bulbs to replace halogens.
The connection is made through a transformer.
When you turn on all three LED lamps, there is some kind of buzz from them.
If you change 1 lamp to a halogen, the buzz disappears.
Why does this noise appear?
In addition to the magnetic circuits and windings, there is nowhere for the hum to appear. Most likely, there is an inductance in the light bulb driver, the transformer from “not full load” is forced to work in “intermittent”, the light bulb electronics do not like this and they are buzzing from this.
The main reason is the transformer.
The hum appears from the abnormal operation of the transformer, it is not designed to operate at low load levels.
You need to provide the bulbs with normal voltage.
Change the transformer to a power source that won't cause the drivers to "conflict" with it, which is expressed by "buzzing".
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One of the typical breakdowns of vacuum cleaners is loud work.
Buzzing LED lights
If your device makes noise when turned on and does not suck up debris or stinks of burning, you need to proceed to repair as soon as possible. Otherwise, the engine will fail (which, in fact, makes noise), as a result of which it will be more expedient to buy a new vacuum cleaner than to pay for a replacement engine. Next, we will tell you why the vacuum cleaner buzzes during operation and what to do in this case.
- We clean the filters
- We repair the engine
We clean the filters
In most cases, the device starts to make noise due to the fact that you did not clean the filters in a timely manner or did not empty the garbage bag. Clogged filters restrict air from reaching the motor, causing the latter to operate in overload mode. The result - during abnormal operation, the engine makes noise, gets very hot, and eventually fails altogether. Therefore, do not forget to clean the filters, and if it has already come to this situation, clean it and see if this helped to solve the problem.
We repair the engine
If you have cleaned all the filters, but the motor is buzzing like an airplane, then most likely the problem is bearing wear. The fact is that with severe contamination of the filtering system, dust will enter the engine compartment and stick to the moving parts. As a result, the engine starts to run “dry”, after which it starts to buzz or whistle.
If you detect a breakdown in time and immediately begin to fix the problem, you may get off with simply lubricating the bearings, as shown in this video:
It happens that the engine is simply clogged with debris, after which it starts to hum strongly. In this case, it can also be saved by simply cleaning it, as shown in this video example:
If the lubrication of the bearings did not help, then the matter is in the windings or other elements of the engine. Repair in this case is most often not advisable, especially if the equipment is old. It would be much wiser to buy new equipment. You can read about how to choose a quality vacuum cleaner for your home in our article.
That's all the advice we wanted to provide. Now you know why the vacuum cleaner is buzzing and how to repair it yourself. Once again, we remind you that the main cause of the breakdown is clogged filters, so approach the maintenance of the device with responsibility!
Related materials on the topic:
- Why is the refrigerator loud?
- Vacuum cleaner does not suck up debris - reasons
- Rating of robotic vacuum cleaners in 2016
Why do light bulbs explode in a chandelier when turned on
Why do light bulbs explode when turned on?
How does a modern electric light bulb work?
A modern household light bulb is a rather complex device, which, as a result of the flow of electric current through a tungsten filament, when heated, gives off a light glow.
In the production of lamps, a rarefied inert gas is pumped into more powerful ones, and a vacuum is created in light bulbs with a power of up to 25 watts.
This prolongs the life of the luminous device, but it is also because of this that when the light bulb explodes, we hear a loud bang.
Nothing else happens in the flask than the stabilization of atmospheric pressure.
What causes light bulbs to explode?
The very reason for the explosion of the light bulb lies in the fact that over time, as a result of depressurization, the discharged medium inside the lamp is sharply filled with pressure, the bulb is destroyed, which is often accompanied by flying fragments in different directions of the room.
This may be the case when modern houses are supplied with a sufficiently high voltage that an ordinary light bulb cannot withstand. If this is the problem, then you will have to find specialized lamps designed for use at high voltages.
The next reason may be low quality products.
For an example, see the picture below. This is a brand new bulb that I bought and could not install in the chandelier, when I started to inspect it, it turned out to be with a crooked base and a hole in the thread .
Unfortunately, at present, domestic manufacturers are lagging behind their foreign counterparts in terms of the quality of lamps, and the price of the issue here is insignificant. For each of the fixtures, a passport is provided, which indicates the power of the bulbs for this model. These instructions must be followed or the bulbs will flicker, dim, or explode and burn out.
We also note that the switches must also be serviceable. If the contact departs from them, then this again affects the performance of the light bulb. In order to avoid such moments when the light bulbs explode, it is worth switching to the use of halogen lamps. A special protection unit is integrated into them, which takes on voltage drops in the network. Old switches are best replaced with rheostat ones that can reduce the voltage to the light bulb itself at the moment it is turned on.
How to connect the light bulb to the wires?
Before connecting the light bulb to the wires, you should take care of safety precautions and turn off the mains voltage. In order to carry out this action correctly, it is necessary to adhere to certain certain rules. First of all, if there is no recess for the switch in the walls, then it must be done.
Next, you will have to stretch the electrical wires to the right place, you need to pull them from the junction box. As a rule, these two wiring are well known to everyone - zero and phase. The above wires will have to be laid in an open or closed way. In the first of these options, the gasket is made in special plastic boxes placed on top of the wall.
Why are the lights buzzing?
While in the second case, the cable is laid in grooves prepared in advance in the wall.
Zero wire must be laid along the ceiling and walls directly to the lighting device itself. The phase should go to the switch, or rather to the input contact, and at the output, the phase goes to the light bulb. It is imperative to follow this sequence, otherwise the light bulb may be under dangerous voltage even when it is turned off.
Next, both zero and phase wires are attached to the cartridge, into which the light bulb will then be screwed. It is enough for a simple person to remember that the phase is connected directly to the base, while zero is connected to the thread. After you managed to install the switch for the light bulb, it must be placed in a box prepared in advance for it, and they also need to check the performance of your entire circuit.
See this thread along with:
The lamps in the chandelier burst. When the lamp burns out, the lamp bursts
Group: Users
Posts: 2781
Registration: 24.9.2010
From: Kaluga
User #: 19599
Quote ([email protected], 14:42)
Could the bulbs themselves be the cause?
Seriously, maybe.
Light bulbs are now producing poor quality, but if this happens regularly, I wrote above. If the connections are OK, it may make sense to put a dimmer.
The machine gun was also knocked out, but not in the apartment. and on the shield on the stairs. But the lamp did not fire. But all the same, when perforating, the machine works for some reason.
Post has been edited S-cream — 20.12.2011, 14:50
Quote([email protected], 15:48)
It is not possible to check a broken lamp in another chandelier
Seriously, maybe. Light bulbs are now producing poor quality, but if this happens regularly, I wrote above. If the connections are OK, it may make sense to put a dimmer.
The knocking out of the machine at the moment the light bulb burns out is due to the fact that at the moment the filament breaks for a short time, currents can occur in the circuit that significantly exceed the rating of the machine.
Thanks for the answer. I'll monitor the situation and check the connections.
Quote(Master Ju @ 20.12.2011, 15:54)
Once turned on, install a soft start device for incandescent lamps.
Need to think. Different lamps in a chandelier behave differently. But, of course, the problem must be solved.
Post has been edited Vycheslav — 20.12.2011, 15:00
I saw electrons with my own eyes
Group: Users
Posts: 2781
Registration: 24.9.2010
From: Kaluga
User #: 19599
Quote(Roman D @ 21.12.2011, 0:20)
Understood: the fuse of the lamp is outside the bulb, i.e. in the space between the flask and the base. The volume of this space in LN E14 is much less than in E27 - all other things being equal. Therefore, when the fuse is triggered, the gases released during the burning of the arc destroy this volume in the weakest place - simply “shooting off” the flask.
By the way, yes. I confirm the remark. E14 "shoot back" much more often than E27.
a more likely reason is poor contact in the lamp itself, the cartridge, and even more likely the disgusting quality of the lamps
I do not argue. All right. I just gave, so to speak, a "live, fresh example" In this example, my bulbs were both Phillips and Belarusian.
Post has been edited S-cream — 21.12.2011, 8:59
Address: Seversk Posts 3,247
Light bulbs in chandeliers often explode =(
There are two chandeliers with a small (E14, it seems) base, the rest with some kind of large one 🙂 And these two chandeliers blow up light bulbs quite often, compared to chandeliers that have a large base. Yesterday one just burned out, another light bulb just exploded right above my head, along with a ceiling 🙁
I buy ordinary Lumen “candles” in this base, for 20-30 rubles.
Does it make sense to take light bulbs more expensive or do you need to call an electrician?
One of them worked for quite a long time on 3 out of 4 bulbs, it was just that the hands did not reach to replace the 4th. Recently replaced and today the ceiling came to an end =\
And if it comes to that, then a bunch of teapot + microwave knocks out the machines. Previously, when I lived with my father, it often knocked out, but now I live alone and less consumers are included - it rarely knocks out. The machines are old.
I'm not very good at electrical engineering.
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Dear all! An urgent question. Light bulbs keep blowing...
Well, not knowing. This is what Yandex.
The advice is different there, and the manufacturer of the lamps is advised to change, and look at the contacts, and the device can be some kind of house with a large capacitor - they write. Do not know. Haven't read anything there yet. They immediately sin on the manufacturer of light bulbs, I don’t know. But in the same place they write that they tried different ones.
I have never exploded, although I noticed that in one place the light bulbs were more prone to burnout (but not to an explosion).
light bulbs "explode" usually when air enters the flask - that is, a suspicion of low-quality products
if the light bulb fails when the voltage rises, the spiral usually burns out, with little noise
there are still incidents when it closes the conductors inside the cartridge - then the general protection already works
As you know, in our home network 220V is an alternating voltage that smoothly changes from 0 to about 310V.
The coil of a lamp when cold has less resistance than when heated. The estimated voltage of the incandescent lamp is 245V. Accordingly, if at the time of switching on the lamp was cold, and the voltage was peak, then the instantaneous current in the filament of the incandescent lamp turns out to be much greater than the average nominal one. As a result, the lamp burns out like a fuse. This may cause an explosion or depressurization. Depressurization of an incandescent lamp is a process when air enters the glass bulb, when heated from a spiral, the air expands and the bulb explodes.
“Noise in the network” also affects the burnout of the lamps. For example, neighbors have connected welding or a similar device. This is protected by a surge protector (type "Pilot") with good power characteristics.
The remaining reasons are very commonplace: poor contact in the cartridge, oxidized contacts, poor-quality or old wiring, a damaged or poor-quality switch.
One of the reasons is the installation of a halogen lamp with bare hands. Halogen lamps are very sensitive to grease. Therefore, it should only be installed with gloves or a clean cloth.
But the main reason is the poor quality of the bulbs. The service life of halogen lamps from Chinese manufacturers is no more than 3-4 months. At the same time, manufacturers such as Philips or Osram have a halogen lamp service life of 1-2 years or more. The cost of such lamps is higher than Chinese ones, but the difference in price often pays off with durability.
It is better to use lamps from the same manufacturer. And the reason is this - for different manufacturers, the legs of halogen lamps may differ in thickness. As a result, the contact in the G4 socket “breaks”, and this leads to excessive heating and destruction of the socket and contacts of the halogen lamp.
The situation when buzzing led lights hard to call pleasant. Extraneous noise from light sources will interfere both in the living room and at work. Let's look at why LED lamps start to make a buzzing sound, and how to fix it.
Dimmer noise is the first reason why LED lamps buzz
The dimmer is an excellent device that increases comfort when using lighting systems. It is able to change the brightness of the glow of the lamps as it is convenient for us. However, the most common reason why do LED lights flicker is the use of a dimmer.
The fact is that there are models of dimming devices for incandescent and LED lamps. If you use an LED lamp with a dimmer designed for incandescent lamps, there will be a buzzing sound coming from the device. The way out is to change the dimmer model to a suitable one for LED light sources or choose incandescent lamps.
Poor assembly of LED lamps
The second reason, why is the led light buzzing– problems with the quality of the lamps. For example, a powerful LED or a group of LEDs with low power was used in the design of the lamp, but its tightness was not ensured. In this case, a humming or hissing sound may be heard when the lamp is turned on.
Another example is the use of low-quality transformers in lamps with dimming via PWM (pulse-width modulation) or too high a PWM frequency. This will also lead to extraneous sounds in the working lamp.
If a low-quality LED light source was purchased, there is no other way to achieve the absence of extraneous sounds, except to change it to a product from a trusted manufacturer.
Other causes of LED humming
It is worth noting that a low level of buzz is characteristic of almost all dimmable lamps, but this sound is usually not audible. But in some situations, the buzz of the light source can be amplified by parts of the ceiling structure. For example, a case was described when a lamp built into a plasterboard ceiling closely adjoined a metal profile, and already along the profile a weak buzzing sound resonated throughout the room. The solution was to replace the lamp model with another, with a lower height.
When a buzzing sound of a working LED lamp appears, you should carefully check all the conditions for its correct operation - a suitable dimmer model, correct installation and the quality of the light source itself. In our online store are presented, including those with the possibility of dimming, which do not create extraneous sounds in working condition.
Why is the LED lamp buzzing, although the store did not buzz when checking? You have finally bought a new lamp. The electrician installed and connected it in place of the old one on incandescent lamps. That lamp was dimmable. The new lamp immediately began to buzz, but in the store it did not buzz when checking. And the buzz gets louder as the brightness decreases.
There are several reasons for the unpleasant phenomenon.
The noise of a dimmer working with an old luminaire with traditional incandescent lamps. These include halogen incandescent lamps. This group of lamps has varieties:
- powered directly from the industrial network 220 V 50 Hz;
- powered by an output voltage of 12 or 24 V.
In such lamps, transformers with a ferromagnetic core sometimes buzz with poor-quality workmanship. EPR can also make noise - an electronic ballast.
They buzz cores or windings loosely wound and not impregnated with varnish. The buzz goes with the mains frequency, i.e. 50 Hz. It is caused by a thyristor or triac dimmer for dimming through a 220 V circuit.
Noise also comes from a lamp with LED lamps, the brightness of which is regulated by the PWM procedure - pulse-width modulation. The PWM frequency is usually higher than tens of kHz, i.e., it is not audible. But sometimes in lamps of nameless manufacturers it is about 200 - 300 Hz. And low-quality transformers in the PWM part can also slowly squeak at this frequency.
The LED lamp also buzzes when a powerful LED or an assembly of several low-power LEDs is powered by a 220 V network. In this case, separate switching power supplies are used. If their design is leaky, that is, not placed in a solid case and not filled with a compound, then they can also hum. But they usually whistle at a high frequency. If the power reserve of such a source is 30 - 50%, then they can be placed behind a suspended false ceiling or hidden in a ceiling niche. It is advisable to check the temperature of the power supply case after ten minutes of nominal operation. The heat should not burn the hand, that is, be insignificant.
Buy on our website guaranteed non-humming and other modern light sources.
