Today there are many brands of washing machines that differ in both external and internal parameters, that is, they are not only able to successfully fit into any interior, but also perform several different washing modes. In addition, modern models do not finish the rinse cycle as long as there is soap suds in the drum. But in order for the washing machine to last a long time, it is important to know how to fix the washing machine.
In the installation instructions for any washing machine, one mandatory requirement will be indicated - the floor must be flat, preferably concrete. Place the washing machine on a flat surface, after unscrewing the transport bolts from the rear wall, which protect the drum of the machine from damage during transportation. If there is a strong vibration during the first start, it should be forcibly stopped.
Knowing how to stop the washing machine quickly will not cause significant damage. In different machines, this can be done in different ways - with the stop button or the water drain + stop button. Then you can take measures to eliminate the vibration of the washing machine during operation. Sometimes it is enough to twist the legs so that they stand perfectly level and low to the floor, you can also lay a rubber mat to compensate for the force of vibration.
You can extend the service life if you know how to wash the washing machine. After each wash, it is recommended to remove the remaining detergent from the compartment for its loading. To eliminate the unpleasant odor that often forms in the washing machine due to the accumulation of water residues, it is useful to turn the machine without washing, setting the temperature to 90 degrees. It is not necessary to set the full cycle of the program, ten minutes is enough, and you can drain the water.
When buying new equipment, the question arises of how to transport a washing machine, for example, to a summer cottage. Here you should perform the same procedure as during installation, only in the reverse order. It is also necessary to re-fix the drum with the transport bolts. All hoses should be folded into a separate bag, and the wire should be twisted and secured with tape on the back of the washing machine.
It does not hurt to replace the pump before installing the machine in a new place, especially if you notice that the machine does not drain water well. It is important to know how to remove a washing machine pump in order to replace it with a new one. Many people prefer to call a master for this, but you can do it yourself. In different models of washing machines, it has a different location. Therefore, a design diagram may be required, which can be found in the instructions.
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A new washing machine was purchased, installed. It seems to be washing well and working correctly. But at some point, we notice that she begins to move. By the way, this situation is possible with an old machine, but after installation in a different place. How to get out of this situation, not to allow it to move on its own? Let's try to figure it out, what to do, but first, let's define the reasons why this is happening. After all, only by eliminating the cause, you can get rid of the effect.
Why is this happening
Most often, the washing machine jumps during spinning, since it is in this mode that it reaches the maximum drum rotation speed. And any error during installation becomes apparent.
So, let's figure out the possible reasons for this inconvenience:
- If this is a new washing machine, chances are the transit bolts have not been removed. They are used to safely move the device so that the tank is secured. Although these elements do not completely block the drum, they can interfere with its operation. As a result, the elements of the machine can wear out faster. To check if the shipping bolts have been removed, it is best to read the instructions from the manufacturer, where everything is written.
- Possibly the installation problem. It is no secret that washing machines are quite sensitive to changes in operating conditions. For example, they need a very flat floor. How to check? You can use a level. You can also try shaking her hands. If you feel a limp, you need to adjust the legs so that it stops.
- A rare case is a smooth, slippery floor. It is advisable to use a rubberized mat or special attachments for the legs of the machine.
- Another option that can be found is the imbalance of the laundry. If objects are unevenly distributed over the drum, the device may wobble. In this case, you need to pause the washing machine, wait, open and spread the laundry more evenly, or divide it in half. Then we turn on the device again and test it.
If none of the suggested reasons are suitable for your case, it is possible that we are talking about a breakdown.
Technical reasons
Now we will give the main breakdowns that can lead to the fact that the washing machine jumps during spinning:
- Damper breakage, shock absorber. This means that the make is worn out. These elements are designed to dampen vibrations that occur at high drum speeds. Incorrect loading of linen, overloading can contribute to their wear. During spinning, the sound of shock absorbers banging against the body may also be heard. For the correct operation of the machine, replacement of elements is necessary.
- The springs have broken. This is possible as a result of their wear and tear. As a result of loss of elasticity, the springs on which the drum is attached may fail. The springs must be changed in pairs.
- Counterweight defective. It can collapse or its fastening deteriorated. The counterweight also dampens vibrations to keep the machine stable. The product can be made of plastic or concrete. To eliminate the breakdown, you need to replace either the counterweight, or its attachment.
- The bearing is broken. Continuous exposure to moisture can damage the bearing. This is accompanied by the characteristic grinding of metal. Such a breakdown can harm the rest of the washing machine. Elimination requires replacement of the bearing.
Of course, it is very often difficult to eliminate such causes on your own. What to do? Seek professional help. They will be able to diagnose the device, accurately determine the breakdown, and carry out repair work. Then, during spinning, the car will stop jumping.
Alternative
But the question arises, is it possible to do something with your own hands, at least temporarily, to get rid of this phenomenon? Let's try to give good advice on what to do:
- the washing machine should stand on a flat surface; you should not install it on a smooth tile, as shown in the photo;
- first, the device must be level, then fix the legs; instead of a level, you can use a container with water or try to stagger the car in different directions, identifying the problem corner or side;
- there is a modern solution - an anti-vibration mat designed for laying specifically under the washing machine; it reduces noise, reduces vibration;
- even if the device is positioned perfectly, you should not neglect the rules described in the instructions from the manufacturer: it cannot be overloaded with laundry, for example, if the machine is designed for 5 kilograms of laundry, you cannot load six or more - breakage is guaranteed.
Almost everyone who uses the washing machine is aware of its habit of jumping up and out of its place during the spin cycle. This article will discuss the causes of the phenomenon and methods of preventing them.
Let's look at the reasons first. They can be divided into two groups:
- factors causing vibration of the washing machine;
- factors that allow the vibrating machine to move on the floor.
Why does the washing machine jump?
The first cause of strong machine vibrations can be non-dismantled transport bolts... They fix the tank of the washing machine immovably inside the case so as not to damage it during transportation. Bolts and other fixing elements must be removed before starting work. It is strictly forbidden to operate the car with them.
Another cause of vibration in the washing machine is uneven distribution of things in the tank... If you start the machine with an empty tank, it will not vibrate. The same will happen if you distribute things perfectly evenly - in an even layer around the entire circumference of the tank. In reality, such a distribution cannot be achieved, even if they are evenly distributed at the beginning, they are mixed during the washing process.
Defective tank suspension and support bearings. Looseness of the counterweight attachment.
The purpose of the system of springs, dampers and counterweight is to make the natural frequency of the tank much lower than its rotation frequency. This reduces the amplitude of vibrations and the magnitude of vibrations transmitted to the machine body.
In order to better understand the content of the previous paragraph, remember: at the beginning of the spin cycle, the body of the loaded machine sways more strongly, and then, with an increase in the rotation speed of the tank, the buildup turns into a small tremor, or, with the correct distribution of the laundry, it practically disappears.
Swing the tank - after that, it should make no more than one swing and stop. Otherwise, the shock absorbers are faulty, they must be replaced.
Open the casing of the machine, inspect the elastic elements - metal should not have deformations, rubber - tears and cracks. Defective parts - for replacement! Check counterweight attachment - if loose, tighten nuts.
Defective bearings. When the machine is running, there should be no squeaks or knocks. Rotate the tank by hand, wiggle it from side to side. If you find squeaking or wobbling, replace the defective parts.
Correct installation of the washing machine
First requirement for installation - horizontal floor. When deviating from horizontal, the vibrating machine will slide in the direction of the slope. If the floor is not ideal, you need to build some kind of podium that creates a horizontal surface for the car. Moreover, he himself should not slide on the floor surface.
Second requirement- the horizontal position of the machine itself. Or verticality. It depends on what is chosen as a criterion: the upper plane should be strictly horizontal, any side edge - vertical.
Why is this needed? With the most careful distribution of things, they will shift during the wash process and create a beating when the tank rotates quickly. In an uneven machine, the runout will deviate from the design and, as a result of uneven load on the supports, can cause displacement.
Is the impact of the deviation significant? It is better not to analyze, but simply to level the car. This is not such a difficult operation.
How to level a car? What do you need to adjust?
Prepare a level approximately 1 meter long before starting work. No longer needed. If there is no such long one, take what is. But it must be borne in mind that the shorter the level, the lower the accuracy.
You will also need two open end wrenches. The size must match the adjusting nuts on the feet of the machine.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a washing machine
Checking the level of the site on which the device will stand. Actually, the horizontality of not the entire platform is important, but the plane passing through the spots on which the legs of the machine will rest.
Check the level of the platform along both diagonals with a level. If horizontality is observed here, we check along two adjacent sides. If everything is in order here, we put the car with its feet on proven sites. If in some directions the floor is not horizontal, we put stands on the lowered places, achieving horizontality in all directions.
The stands can be made from any flat and hard material. It is recommended to stick a thin rubber sheet on the side in contact with the floor. Its purpose will be described below.
Now we put the washing machine on the platform or on the stands. By adjusting the height of the legs, we achieve the horizontalness of the upper surface. We check the correctness of the vertical alignment of the side ribs.
If everything is fine, tighten the locknuts on the adjusting screws of the legs and check again if the vertical-horizontal has not been violated when locking.
Now try to swing the car left and right and diagonally. If it does not swing - not almost, but does not swing at all - it means that the machine is set correctly.
But there is one more nuance. As already noted, it is almost impossible to completely eliminate vibrations, therefore there is always the likelihood of the washing machine leaving its rightful place.
Do you remember that a sheet of rubber was glued to the footrests? This is to prevent them from sliding on the floor with small vibrations and preventing the machine from moving.
Find a rectangular sheet of rubber 1–1.5 cm thick, and about 5 cm larger than the machine. The hardness should be such that the legs would crush it by about half the thickness. Place it on a level surface under the machine and the chance of maintenance is reduced to zero.
Tips for operating the machine to reduce vibration.
Do not overload the machine. The suspension system is designed to work with a certain load. Exceeding will lead to excessive vibrations, and in the long term, to premature failure of units.
Spread the items evenly around the drum before starting. There are machines that can do this on their own, but still help them - artificial intelligence is not yet that smart.
If your machine is horizontally loaded, you can keep something heavy on it, such as a laundry basket. This will increase the vibration resistance.
Place the machine at a distance of at least 5 cm from the walls so that in an emergency it does not damage them and yourself.
Conclusion
At the end, we will briefly list what was said in the article:
- Do not forget Remove the transit bolts;
- The machine must stand on horizontal surfaces;
- The car must stand strictly vertically;
- Place a rubber mat under the legs;
- Evenly distribute items around the circumference of the drum;
- Do not overload car;
- Provide a gap between the wall and the car not less than 5 cm;
- Attention! Never use a damaged machine. If an elastic element breaks or a bearing breaks apart on the move, the breakdown can reach such proportions that an extra washed shirt turns out to be golden.
Connecting a washing machine with your own hands is not technically difficult, but it is quite a responsible matter. And the payment for irresponsibility is expressed not only in money. The probability of an electrical breakdown in a washing machine is several times higher than in a dishwasher and is on the verge of what is acceptable for household appliances. And the capacitive leakage currents in it are also large, and the heat generation during operation is significant. Therefore, for the long-term safe operation of the machine, it is necessary to properly prepare the workplace for it. This can be done both independently and with the assistance of specialists. And the right choice depends not only on your desire and / or skill.
Everything rests on grounding
Reputable retailers often include the cost of on-site installation in the selling price. It seems to be not bad; the premium itself is small, since the case is put on stream. But, firstly, “cool” firms sell “coolness” - you will not find budget models there.
Secondly, such traders do not deal with protective grounding; it must be equipped in advance, otherwise the company refuses to install it (but does not return the premium to the price), and the warranty is immediately lost. You bought a dear assistant, a branded master came, saw that there was no grounding, wrote an "internal" act - and that's it, you are without a guarantee and without a considerable amount of money.
But even if the machine was purchased from a “simple” seller without any special conditions, but later it turns out that it was operated without grounding, you will be denied warranty repair. The installation instructions for any automatic washing machine in black and white state that its operation without grounding OR protective devices is unacceptable. OR highlighted for good reason, we'll talk about this later.
Conclusion: Do-it-yourself installation of washing machines is quite possible if provided in advance. If you buy an expensive brand in a reputable trading company, then if you have grounding, it will be installed for you at a ridiculous price, in comparison with a private master, with full guarantee.
Kitchen, bathroom or closet?
Before discussing the issue of paramount importance - the grounding of the washing machine, you need to decide an equally important one: the place for its installation.
A washing machine is a fairly powerful source of heat and humidity. And there should be an electrical outlet next to it. Its contacts are covered with a cover for you, but they are bare for air. Therefore, it is not recommended to install an automatic washing machine in a bathroom, where humidity is already excessive all the time:
- The installation of household electrical distribution and switching devices in the bathroom is directly prohibited by SNiP (Building Norms and Rules). Have you ever seen a bathroom switch in your new home? Only outside, and the lamp is waterproof. Given the widespread prevalence of automatic washing machines, electricians are still looking at it through their fingers, but gritting their teeth: household electrical injuries from washing machines in the bathroom have long exceeded the permissible limits. The grounds for the introduction of additional legislative measures are undeniable, but they will be prohibited by law, but not by departmental rules - fines will go; the owners also get expensive repairs.
- Even if the electric cord from the washing machine is taken out of the bathroom (from its extension, the guarantee is lost), then there are enough nodes in the machine itself, the durability of which decreases from high humidity and air temperature.
Most users understand this very well themselves, and most often they put a washing machine in the kitchen. At the same time, it is easy to connect to water, sewage and electricity. But the temperature and humidity problem remains. And often you have to choose: washing or cooking. In addition, there is no excess space in the kitchen, and this room is the most visited in the house.
But if you have a closet adjacent to the bathroom or kitchen, this is an ideal place for a washing machine. Punching holes in the wall for communications for the car is not difficult, no approvals are required - the wall between the closet and the services cannot be capital. They almost never enter the closet, it is dry and cool. And when the door is open, a working washing machine will by itself create intensive air circulation in its small volume.
In numbers, it looks like this: if we take the model-averaged failure rate of washing machines installed in the kitchen as the base one, then the frequency of breakdowns of machines in the bathroom will be 2.4 times higher, and that of “closets” - 1.7 times lower.
Note: v prestigious houses of the Soviet era, the so-called Czech project, in the technical description it was so directly indicated that the closet adjacent to the kitchen was intended primarily for the installation of a washing machine and household hot water appliances. Under the then communal tariffs, this was perceived as a curiosity.
Protection against breakdown and electricity leakage
For a washing machine, protection against leakage currents is more relevant than against breakdown. Modern household appliances are generally made reliably, and straight "bangs" with smoke, stench and resuscitation is an exceptional phenomenon, and then because of the carelessness of the owners.
But the electrical capacity of a large tank with several tens of liters of water and a large powerful motor is quite large: up to 0.01 μF in older models. At 50 Hz in a 220 V network, the capacitive leakage current will be 0.7 mA - this is still a safe, but already noticeable pinch, especially through wet hands in a damp room.
To readers familiar with electricity within the school physics course, the data given may not seem very reliable, but note: they relate to a filled car, and water is an abnormal liquid, its dielectric constant is very high: 80.
The leakage current does not interfere with the operation of the machine, it does not reduce its reliability, but it is fundamentally impossible to suppress it, it can only be taken into the ground. An increase in the leakage current in excess of the permissible one is a clear signal of an impending malfunction. That is why washing machines must not be operated without electrical leakage protection.
Aquastop and aquacontrol
Most of the leakage current flows through the drained water. Draining is also a major source of water leaks. Therefore, manufacturers recommend purchasing aquastop devices (another name is aquacontrol), which turn off the machine in case of electrical and / or water leakage. Reputable manufacturers equip their cars with aquastop.
The complex aquastop requires a separate power supply. A box without a power cord and a low-power low-voltage power adapter is a primitive shut-off valve that does not protect against electrical leakage, but poorly protects against water leakage.
Electronic grounding
In apartment buildings it is often difficult, if not impossible, to arrange individual protective grounding, on the one hand. On the other hand, manufacturers are not asleep either: the fight against leakage currents is one of the most important tasks of proprietary designers.
In modern serviceable washing machines, leakage to the body does not exceed 10-12 μA, which is imperceptible. But in a pre-emergency situation, it rises sharply. For such a case, the so-called. electronic grounding (circuit breakers, cut-off machines). They pass a leakage current through themselves into space, like a person, and when it rises to a tangible limit of 0.1-1 mA, they disconnect the machine from the network.
While there are undoubted advantages, electronic grounding has a significant drawback: its sensitivity strongly depends on the parameters of the air in the room. Electronic grounding can stubbornly disable a perfectly functional machine.
For any electrical device, 90% of faults occur during switching on / off, therefore some manufacturers prohibit the use of their products with electronic grounding. So when buying a car, be sure to ask the seller if the warranty will be lost from use with electronic grounding.
Typical grounding scheme according to modern PUE:
Protective earth
But the owner is hit and scared by the electric leak not through the water, but on the car body. To eliminate it, you need protective grounding. Its type depends on the house:
- In a private house, the technically ideal option is the simplest protective grounding, see below. It does not need to be registered: in a disputable situation, the expert will check the current spreading resistance, and if it is not higher than 4 ohms, which is easy to ensure, the decision will be in your favor.
- In apartment buildings of previous years, from Khrushchev to perestroika, protective grounding will provide full protection. For a small fee, a DEZ electrician will quickly and willingly make it.
- In old houses up to "stalinkas" inclusive, if the house grounding circuit is not equipped, you will have to install electronic grounding.
- In modern houses, the problem of grounding does not exist: according to the new building rules, they must be equipped with a ground loop and Euro sockets. In addition to illegal self-construction for rent "with signs of multi-apartment," as they write. But that's a different topic.
How to make grounding yourself:
This requires 2-4 pieces of metal pipe 1.2 - 2.5 m long, but not shorter than the depth of soil freezing. The bottom of the pipe is driven into a stake with a sledgehammer, and a dozen 5-10 mm holes are drilled randomly in its lower third. Then they dig a trench on the bayonet of the shovel, and drive in the pipes so that they protrude 5-10 centimeters above the ground, at a distance of 0.6 - 1.5 m from each other. In a trench, below ground level, the pipes are connected with reinforcement for welding. They are welded to it and a steel wire of 6-8 mm or a strip of 15-25 mm is brought into the house - this is the grounding bus; to it with a stranded copper wire of 4-6 sq. mm, connect the earthing terminals of the euro sockets. For this, holes are drilled in the strip and the threads M4 - M6 are cut into them; the wire is pre-spilled. The seat for the earthing switches from the sockets is cleaned with a sandpaper and lubricated with grease; better - graphite.
Note: in the summer, when the soil dries up, a solution of salt is poured into the pipes at the rate of half a pack per bucket. This is necessary to ensure the spreading of the current in dry soil. At an external temperature of +35 degrees, it is enough to fill in once a week; at +30 - once a month.
Grounding scheme for a private house
Installing the washing machine
Installation and correct connection of the washing machine is carried out in the same sequence as for the dishwasher: drain, water, electricity, test. But there are features:
- In a large and voluminous washing machine, the phenomenon of so-called. temperature hysteresis of automation. Therefore, if a boiler, electric or gas, is installed in the house, then the total costs for water and electricity will be lower if the washing machine is powered with hot water from it. For a small dishwasher with negligible water consumption, the situation is reversed.
- The connection to the mains also includes protection measures, with protection being done first and foremost.
- Washers wear out very quickly and break if their inclination in any direction exceeds 2 degrees, and cannot stand resonant vibrations at all. Therefore, the floor under the washing machine should not play, and before checking the operability, the horizontalness of the upper plane of the machine is checked with a level, and the machine is leveled with standard threaded legs.
Note: on sites with suffix.kz you can find recommendations to connect the washing machine to a centralized hot water supply. Perhaps, in Kazakhstan, hot water is still supplied without a meter at the old Soviet tariffs, but in the Russian Federation this advice is unacceptable.
Draining
Connecting the drain of a super narrow, narrow or compact washing machine is made into a siphon with an additional kitchen sink fitting. But in this case, the washer should be next to it: you cannot build up the drain hose. In low-performance machines, the drain pump is also low-power; in addition, the hydraulic resistance of the long hose will overload it, and it will quickly fail.
The kitchen siphon will not let the entire drain of high-performance machines with a tank volume of more than 30-40 liters - the dirty water will partially go into the sink. In this case, you need to make the connection of the washing machine to the sewer with a separate outlet. To do this, you will have to cut an additional section with a branch pipe into the sewer pipe, and drain the washing machine through a separate siphon (see the figure above).
Important: the knee of the siphon of the washing machine should be located below the bottom of its tank. In most cases, this requires placing the machine on a stand 30-40 cm high. Consider this when choosing a place for the washing machine.
Note: the compact washing machine can be installed in the kitchen, on a shelf or, if there is space, on the table, or it can be carried there. In this case, the drain will simply go down the sink. Such machines are often equipped with water hoses with a socket and a cuff, which are put on the kitchen sink faucet.
Water
As mentioned above, the washing machine is connected to the water supply via both cold and hot branches. There are no special features here, just two half-inch water tees, two shut-off ball valves and an FUM tape for waterproofing: the pipes of complete water pipes often turn out to have too short a thread, and the standard gasket has to be thrown away.
Protection, electricity and verification
First of all, we install aquastop on the drain hose, according to the instructions for it. Then we turn on, if required, electronic deposit. This appliance is equipped with a European socket, and we turn on the washing machine into it. If there is a "earthed" protective grounding, connecting the washing machine to the mains is reduced to inserting the plug into the socket.
We open the water supply to the car, check the pipelines for leaks. If it flows somewhere, we eliminate it. Then we turn on the car for test mode; at the end of the test, it should turn itself off and inform on the display that everything is OK. If the machine is inexpensive and without built-in dough, we just wash something, but the water consumption will be higher. The final stage - we shut off the hot water in the machine, and check, by dough or washing, the work on self-heating.
Important: aquastop and electronic grounding devices do not duplicate each other; they must work together. In the presence of a deaf protective pinching, aquastop is still necessary.
In order for the washing machine to work for a long time without breakdowns and "does not beat with current", it must be installed in a suitable place and a reliable protective ground must be provided. Otherwise, self-installation of the washing machine is not difficult.
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It is impossible to imagine modern life without a washing machine. Priority is given to automatic models that maximize the freedom from hard work. A smart machine does everything on its own, but it is necessary to create conditions under which the unit will work for a long time and without interruption.
One of the important points ensuring reliable operation is the installation of the washing machine and its subsequent connection.
It often happens that a technique installed independently or by a master begins to vibrate during spinning. This indicates that the installation was done incorrectly. Therefore, even before buying, you need to decide on a place for the car, familiarize yourself with the recommendations of the installation specialists.
Professional advice on installing the washing machine, as well as step-by-step instructions will help you complete the installation and connection according to all the rules.
Choosing the overall dimensions, type of construction and technical characteristics of the model, they are guided not by their own wishes, but by the possibilities of the room in which it will stand.
In a spacious bathroom, problems with installing a washing machine, as a rule, do not arise. In order to save money, it is placed as close as possible to the outlet, water supply and sewerage wiring
The necessary conditions for the operation of the washing machine include the proximity of the outlet and water. This will help avoid lengthening electrical cables and hoses.
Pay attention to ease of use, as well as to the aesthetic component. Accommodation problems most often arise in small apartments.
Most of the users, when choosing a place, choose the bathroom as the most appropriate from the point of view of logic.
After all, it is here that the water pipes and the sewer drain are located. In addition, the washing process will be hidden from view.
The washing machine can also be placed in a small bathroom, having previously determined the size and location. In this case, the machine was installed under the sink to save space.
When choosing a place for a typewriter, pay attention to the following points:
- the ability of the floor to withstand vibrations;
- the possibility of laying communications over remote distances;
- during measurements, it is necessary to take into account irregularities on the walls;
- the space for the installation of the machine must be at least 1 cm larger than its nominal dimensions.
If there is not enough space, and the dimensions of the machine are large, you should think about placing the unit in the kitchen or in the corridor.
Water connection to the machine
Machine wash, like any other, is impossible without water. The water supply system must meet two basic requirements: sufficient pressure in the pipes and clean water.
If they are not observed, a pump is installed to increase the pressure, and the water is filtered. A tap is built into the pipe supplying water to the machine to shut it off. Thus, the likelihood of leakage is minimized.
Electricity supply issue
A washing machine is a powerful unit. Residents of old apartments in which the wiring has not changed are recommended to run a separate cable, since the wires and sockets installed many years ago are not suitable for connecting modern technology. The cable cross-section must correspond to the expected load.
The socket for connecting the washing machine is installed with grounding. If we are talking about a room with high humidity, for example, a bathroom, then it is advisable to choose models with a protective cover.
Quality floor and flooring
The requirements for the quality of the floor are high. It must be strictly horizontal, firm and level.
The floor covering will have to withstand the vibrations generated by the rotating drum. If there are doubts about the quality, it is necessary to strengthen it at the place of installation of the machine.
Ambient temperature
In a heated apartment or house, the equipment is warm. If the heating is turned off for a long time, which is often observed in country houses and in technical rooms, the equipment must not be left.
The water remaining inside the machine after washing is sure to freeze. This will lead to a rupture of the hose or even the pump and will require repair / replacement.
Stages of installation work
Once the new machine has been delivered from the store, it is freed from packing materials and shipping fasteners. Then the height of the legs is adjusted, and the machine is connected to the communications. From this point on, the first wash can be started.
Step # 1 - removing the shipping bolts
So that the moving parts of the washing machine are not damaged during transportation, they are fixed with special fasteners (bolts, beams, brackets).
Bolts are used to secure the drum during transport. Remove the fixing parts before turning on the washing machine. Failure to do so will result in damage to the undercarriage.
If they are not removed when the machine is turned on, the owner of the equipment will be disappointed. It will inevitably fail. To prevent this from happening, the bolts are unscrewed, the plastic spacers are removed, and the staples are removed.
Fasteners should be packed in a bag or box and put in a safe place. They must be kept in case you move or deliver equipment to a repair shop.
Special plugs supplied with the device are inserted into the bolt holes.
Step # 2 - connecting to the plumbing system
The machine is connected to the cold water supply using the supplied flexible hose. Rigid connection is not recommended, as vibrations will act on the pipes, gradually destroying them.
The reliability and durability of the connection to the water supply depends on the quality of the parts and the experience of the person involved in the connection. When connected to a metal pipe, a tap is made into the water supply using a crimp sleeve or a mortise clamp
A filter is inserted into the water inlet, which is included in the package of the unit. The nut connecting the hose to the machine is screwed in by hand. The rubber seal ensures tightness. The second end of the hose is also manually (without keys) connected to a cold water tap.
The connection of the hose to the water supply is carried out by means of a cut-in branch pipe or a tee. As a rule, it has a filter to purify water from impurities. It is connected to the machine using a conventional threaded connection.
Step # 3 - arranging the waste water drain
The temporary and simplest solution for organizing water drainage is the end of the hose, which is lowered into the bathtub or sink. Usually, the waste water is drained into a siphon located under the sink through a splitter.
Experts do not advise lengthening the drain hose, as as a result, it wears out quickly, and an increased load is created on the drain pump.
The hose must be long enough to sag and loop. The water that will be in the fold will close the access to the unpleasant odor coming from the sewer.
In order to properly connect to the sewer system, you have to connect the drain hose. This is done in one of the ways: directly into the sewer or through the drain in a siphon under the sink.
To prevent the water from draining by gravity and the spread of unpleasant odors, a water seal is created by bending the hose. Its upper level should be 60 cm above the floor plane.
Step # 4 - leveling the feet
The rotation of the drum should be smooth, without distortions. This is achieved due to the strictly horizontal position of the upper plane.
The check is carried out using the building level. If the deflection is more than 2 °, the feet will need to be adjusted. This is done by twisting them.
If the car is not set in a strictly horizontal position by adjusting the legs, it will "jump" and make loud sounds, creating discomfort for others
Strong vibrations can damage individual parts of the machine and damage the machine.
To prevent the twisted leg nut from unscrewing, it is fixed with a lock nut. Correctly aligned supports are one of the prerequisites for the correct operation of the washing machine.
You should not level the position of the machine by placing pieces of wood, linoleum and other gaskets under the legs, as they easily pop out during operation.
Step # 5 - connecting to power
The optimal solution is to connect to the panel using a three-core cable on which the circuit breaker is mounted. Protection against short-circuit to the case is provided by an RCD device.
There are also special requirements for the outlet. It is mounted above the floor level to a height that will not allow water to enter in the event of a leak - not lower than 30 cm. In addition, it must be grounded.
The correct placement of the outlet directly affects the performance of the washing machine in the future. Indeed, in the event of its flooding, the equipment will be deprived of power supply, and the electric point will need to carry out resuscitation work
Step # 6 - verifying the installation is correct
If all actions are performed step by step, taking into account professional recommendations, and the machine is connected to all communications, and the plug is inserted into the outlet, then it's time to test its performance.
Compliance with a strict sequence of installation work, taking into account professional recommendations - a guarantee that the machine will be installed correctly and its operation will not cause problems
And at the same time, make sure that all actions are performed correctly. For this, water is supplied and the functioning of the unit is checked. those. it starts up - wash without laundry. If leaks are detected in the hose connections, the nuts are tightened.
Another important point to remember is to preserve the packaging from under the new washing machine. The fact is that it must be stored for 7 days in case of exchange, if the machine turns out to be faulty, with defects or damage. The reason for the return may be a discrepancy in dimensions.
What if the car "jumps"?
Most often, increased vibration occurs after the installation of machines. But even the time-tested units can show their "disposition" by jumping and moving along the floor.
It is better to prevent the vibration problem in advance than to deal with it. This will save the unit from breakdown, and the owner from repair costs.
To prevent the equipment from malfunctioning, it is necessary to establish the cause of the vibrations and eliminate it immediately. Strong vibrations can be observed in the following cases:
- Forgot to remove the fasteners (brackets, bolts) holding the moving parts during transport.
- Uneven floor that makes the machine wobble.
- Floor that is slippery and too level, on which a rubber mat should be placed.
- The laundry inside the drum is curled up into a lump.
Excessive vibrations can also cause technical reasons, which can only be identified and eliminated by a specialist.
Such reasons include breakage of shock absorbers, destruction of bearings, wear of the springs with which the tank is attached, loosening of the counterweight fasteners, etc.
Any of the above reasons must be urgently eliminated, since delay is fraught with breakdown.
Self-confidence and previous experience are good reasons for installing home appliances yourself.
Professional advice on how to properly install the washing machine yourself, as well as clear instructions will help you do this without mistakes.
Mounting options in various conditions
Before carrying out the installation, you need to think about in what conditions and mode the machine will work. Based on this, measures are taken to get rid of problems in operation in the future.
Installing a car in a private house
The scheme of electrical cables and piping must be thought out even at the stage of construction or repair.
If the washing machine is located in the basement, its connection will be 1.20-1.50 meters below the sewer level. The problem is solved by installing conventional pumping equipment
A dry basement of a private house is the best place to install washing and drying equipment. In this case, residents of the house do not feel noise, odors and dampness.
Installation of appliances in the kitchen and in the corridor
Washing does not work well with cooking and eating. Nevertheless, very often the machine is installed in the kitchen, as its design fits perfectly into the interior.
In the kitchen, the machine can be placed anywhere. The most convenient option is to install it under a worktop or in a closet, where it can be hidden behind doors
Less commonly, she can be seen in the hallway. For such an installation, it is difficult to find a place and you will have to solve issues on laying communications in the floor or walls.
When installing in a corridor or in a hallway, it is better to place the car near the wall behind which the bathroom is located. This will simplify the connection of the unit to the water supply and sewerage system.
You will also need to hide the machine behind a curtain, place it in a built-in wardrobe or under a countertop.
Placement on laminate or wood floor
The ideal surface for a washing machine is hard and tough concrete. The wooden floor amplifies vibrations that have a destructive effect on the surrounding objects and the unit itself.
Anti-vibration mats are made of various materials, they are varied in structure, but they serve one purpose - to protect the unit from vibrations and prevent its breakdown
The floor can be reinforced in several ways:
- concreting a small foundation;
- arrangement of a solid podium on steel pipes;
- using an anti-vibration mat.
The listed methods will help reduce unpleasant vibrations, but they cannot be compared with a concrete screed.
Features of the installation of the built-in machine
The built-in model is the perfect option that will fit into any interior. Hoses and wires are hidden behind the cabinet, and its front door is identical to the headset.
In built-in machines, only the front loading option is provided. In this case, it is necessary not only to install the machine, but also to provide space for opening the hatch.
This type of equipment is more expensive than usual, so many are interested in whether and how it is possible to install or build a machine into a cabinet.
The problem is solved, it is performed in several ways:
- by installing under the countertop;
- placing a compact model in a ready-made cabinet;
- installation in a specially made cabinet, with or without a door.
To ensure that adjacent cabinets are not vibrated, the base must be solid.
Installing the machine over the toilet
For owners of small toilets, the idea of placing a typewriter over the toilet may seem odd. But there are enthusiasts who can solve even such a difficult task.
The design for installing the washing machine should be as thoughtful and reliable as possible. European manufacturers produce powerful fasteners, but their cost is very high
In order for the unit to hold its weight and not fall on your head at the most inopportune moment, you must adhere to safety precautions.
When planning the installation, pay attention to the following points:
- If the quality of the walls is in doubt, a steel structure is produced which rests on the floor.
- A hanging shelf is made from a durable metal profile.
- The shelf is equipped with a safety edge to prevent the machine from sliding off the shelf due to vibration.
- The pull-out shelf prevents laundry taken out of the machine from falling into the toilet.
- The height of the attachment is made such that the toilet bowl flush remains within the access zone.
- It is more convenient to place the car not above the toilet, but behind it.
- It is more expedient to choose a model with a shallow depth.
It should be remembered that if repairs are required, the heavy machine will have to be lowered to the floor and then returned to its place.
The process of installing the washing machine is quite simple and does not take much time. Its quality depends on many factors.
An inexperienced owner of equipment should not take up work, as the consequences can cause a lot of trouble for him and his neighbors. In this case, it is better to consult a specialist.
